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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

Oasis 05-28-2012 12:26 PM


Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED (Post 10789048)
Before I had the center diff I ran 7000 front and 5000 rear. I think it worked pretty good for me, tons of steering.. Almost too much, which is why some are running 10k,20k in the front. The type of track you are running on plays a major roll in what thickness you use.

I think 3,000 or 5,000 will suit you well in the rear regardless of the track you run on.

In my opinion go 7000 frt and 5000 rear.

I was running 7k in the front and had sooooo much steering..went back to 20k..:lol:..but I'm running on a small high traction track..what are you guys running with the RC Shox center diff as far as diff settings go..I'm building a FT for outdoors and I was told that the center diff works better for outdoor tracks..

Arakon 05-28-2012 12:47 PM


Originally Posted by Arakon (Post 10783972)
I just took apart my entire front end (to adjust the servo position and change my diff oil to 20k from 30k due to rear wheels with insane grip).. I've run about 50-60 packs through the truck so far and my diffs look like new.. the shims show not even the slightest sign of bending or wear. I did add limiters after 30-40 packs, but not before then.. the only thing I can think of is that I put RPM arms on my truck first thing. The front diff had started leaking some, the rear isn't losing a drop, though.

Just now I took apart the rear end. Unfortunately, there I do have a coned washer, which I flipped around for the time being. I have no clicking either way.
For some reason, the o-rings of the diff case keep popping out, as if they were too big.. this didn't happen with the front.
I also noticed the dreaded diff output wobble.. will have to experiment with the bearing mod there at some point.

Pellefa 05-28-2012 12:57 PM

Outdrive modification
 
Hi all, I am in the final stages of completing the FT kit version of this truck, using as much info from this thread as possible. I am now in the final stages and got concerned about the outdrives. I build the diff's stock, so no added bearings for the out drives so far.

Apart from the added bearings to the diff's, is there a known fix to the outdrives that avoids that a large movement of the shocks can destroy the diff w outdrives? I am building the shocks with "throw" limiters, but is there something else to consider for the outdrives themselves?

SCTDan 05-28-2012 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by Oasis (Post 10789189)
I was running 7k in the front and had sooooo much steering..went back to 20k..:lol:..but I'm running on a small high traction track..what are you guys running with the RC Shox center diff as far as diff settings go..I'm building a FT for outdoors and I was told that the center diff works better for outdoor tracks..

I'm running 5 pins with 5k fluid front and rear. Works well for me outdoors. I also have the ft steering rack with links in the rear position.

SMR 510RR 05-28-2012 05:34 PM

I just got my center diff up and running and I have to say that it is awesome! I put 7k up front and 5k in the rear with 4 pins and at first I had way too little steering.

After reading on here that the two grooved spacers for the thrust bearing are different I pulled everything apart and I did have it backwards, no big deal nothing was broken or anything so that was solved. Looking at my setup I couldnt get the nut far enough on so that they nylock would bite on the threads so I flipped the spacer on the end of the spring back over and I can still get full compression of the spring so I am not sure why everyone says to flip that spacer. With the spring fully compressed the diff wasnt really diffing so I backed it out probably 1-2 full turns and then the diff starting acting right, not sure if there is a precise adjustment on where you want it but I just did it until it seemed about right.

Back on the track this afternoon and it was way better, still want a little more turn in and off power steering so I may go to 5k in the front also. Overall the truck is a joy to drive now and although my fast lap is probably not that much faster vs. the VTS my average lap has to be seconds faster. The truck is planted and predictable now, worth every penny.

If you are on the fence about the upgrade just do it already, everything everyone says about it is true.

mcdanielbro's 05-28-2012 05:40 PM

So Saturday was my 2nd weekend out with my new ft kit.I took the win over the losi boys...i'm the only AE in the class...the win wasn't easy buy any means.I feel there is alt more left in the truck.

My setup is pretty much the stock set up.with the exception of a few changes.
= rear hub mod 5mm in side on link and 8mm on out side
= small rear sway bar
= rear shocks inside hole on tower
=3/2 toe block on rear.
= camber is at 0 all around and front toe is at 0 also

The truck is loose in the rear...I have to fight it just to keep it pointed the right way.the sweeper is almost impossible to take at any speed...and down the strait the truck is like its on ice...even on power half way down the strait the rear wants to pass the front end..

Any ideas on how to plant the rear of the truck? The track is a outdoor clay with decent grove...

Evil Genius jr. 05-28-2012 05:44 PM

V2 Center diff!

kjohnsiii 05-28-2012 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's (Post 10790312)
So Saturday was my 2nd weekend out with my new ft kit.I took the win over the losi boys...i'm the only AE in the class...the win wasn't easy buy any means.I feel there is alt more left in the truck.

My setup is pretty much the stock set up.with the exception of a few changes.
= rear hub mod 5mm in side on link and 8mm on out side
= small rear sway bar
= rear shocks inside hole on tower
=3/2 toe block on rear.
= camber is at 0 all around and front toe is at 0 also

The truck is loose in the rear...I have to fight it just to keep it pointed the right way.the sweeper is almost impossible to take at any speed...and down the strait the truck is like its on ice...even on power half way down the strait the rear wants to pass the front end..

Any ideas on how to plant the rear of the truck? The track is a outdoor clay with decent grove...

If you are running a short wheel base that will make the truck unstable in the straight.

If you can spare the cash the exotek chassis should help with planting the truck a bit.

Or just add weight to the truck.

drolmaeye 05-28-2012 05:50 PM


Originally Posted by mcdanielbro's (Post 10790312)
. . .

The truck is loose in the rear...I have to fight it just to keep it pointed the right way.the sweeper is almost impossible to take at any speed...and down the strait the truck is like its on ice...even on power half way down the strait the rear wants to pass the front end..

This! My God, this!

I already saw the following post suggesting the center diff. It would also be great to hear other opinions that include keeping the VTS. Also (and I know I am asking a lot, now) it would be great if an experienced driver could explain a couple of possible causes for the slippery back end. If I have a better understanding of the problem, I would have a better chance of trying to come up with a solution or two on my own.

MantisWorx 05-28-2012 05:51 PM


Originally Posted by Oasis (Post 10789157)
Sure..and a few verses of Kumbaya wouldn't hurt either..:lol:
And the FUM..fu manual..and Marcus no big deal..I'm not new to RC either..I guess I expected better from you..being a respected member of the RC community and all..flaming someone like you did just seems beneath you..but it's done..In the past..;)


REALLY so the fact that you blasted my product on the forum had nothing to do with it huh? Gimme a break, my respect comes from not putting up with BS good or bad. I guess its not beneath you to bring it up in the first place huh?

JEFFs SC10 05-28-2012 05:56 PM

So Marcus do you run the sc10 anymore or do you really love that Durango?

I may pick up a Durango but a 4wd buggy one.

MantisWorx 05-28-2012 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by SMR 510RR (Post 10790281)
I just got my center diff up and running and I have to say that it is awesome! I put 7k up front and 5k in the rear with 4 pins and at first I had way too little steering.

After reading on here that the two grooved spacers for the thrust bearing are different I pulled everything apart and I did have it backwards, no big deal nothing was broken or anything so that was solved. Looking at my setup I couldnt get the nut far enough on so that they nylock would bite on the threads so I flipped the spacer on the end of the spring back over and I can still get full compression of the spring so I am not sure why everyone says to flip that spacer. With the spring fully compressed the diff wasnt really diffing so I backed it out probably 1-2 full turns and then the diff starting acting right, not sure if there is a precise adjustment on where you want it but I just did it until it seemed about right.

Back on the track this afternoon and it was way better, still want a little more turn in and off power steering so I may go to 5k in the front also. Overall the truck is a joy to drive now and although my fast lap is probably not that much faster vs. the VTS my average lap has to be seconds faster. The truck is planted and predictable now, worth every penny.

If you are on the fence about the upgrade just do it already, everything everyone says about it is true.


Going up in front diff fluid will give you less turn in so you dont want to do that, before doing anything drastic play with your front end alignment, try some toe out and lower the front Ride height a MM or two. With the V2 dif you dont need to flip the hat spacer, i fixed that issue with the thrust bearing assembly


Originally Posted by drolmaeye (Post 10790356)
This! My God, this!

I already saw the following post suggesting the center diff. It would also be great to hear other opinions that include keeping the VTS. Also (and I know I am asking a lot, now) it would be great if an experienced driver could explain a couple of possible causes for the slippery back end. If I have a better understanding of the problem, I would have a better chance of trying to come up with a solution or two on my own.

The rear end washing out is a characteristic of the slipper setup in general. You have full time 4wd with no way to really control front to rear bias. so basically you got all the HP to all four wheels all of the time. The Garodisc help this by allowing more controllable slip and is a massive improvement for the buck. The reason why everyone immediately suggest the center dif is that we have ALL been through what you are about to go through!! The majority of us have had this truck for a long time and you are relatively new to it, even those that hold out for as long as possible end up with the center dif! Its just a big game changer in the way the truck handles especially on a loose track. If you race on a high grip indoor track you can definitely get away with one of the three slipper setups but even then the V2 dif will still out perform any slipper setup, it just makes sense. With that being said i am working on a better dual disc setup with good results so far, all i am really doing is giving less surface area to the outside (rear) pad which allows more power transfer to the front. So in a nutshell if you plan on keeping the disc setup in my opinion you only need a dual garodisc setup and call it a day, save your money for the centerdif at a later time! hope this helps you out;)

vito 05-28-2012 06:06 PM

iam a bad driver no track here and no car to get to one

bschanz 05-28-2012 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10789063)
I'm not sure what you dropped down to, but you will feel the difference. It really is noticeable. Drop to 10K and watch how much less push you get.

Jeff, went down to 20k. fyi. somehow, from my phone, that tidbit didn't make it. time to walk the dog and get back to the lab.

Ben

MantisWorx 05-28-2012 06:11 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10790381)
So Marcus do you run the sc10 anymore or do you really love that Durango?

I may pick up a Durango but a 4wd buggy one.

Durango is on the shelf, It drives great and is really fast but something always breaks either the Damn front arms or the shock caps blow off!Once RPM makes some arms for it i will get back on track but no matter how fast it is a a DNF is a loss. That and the hardcore Rango guys are a little wishy washy, suggesting that i should drive the truck differently and corner weight balancing to keep from breaking it is ridiculous....


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