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Not sure on the VTS, but I always ran my MTK basket just a turn or two from locked down.
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
(Post 10740043)
Just curious, does everyone set their pinion at 18.5mm from their motor? I know that's what the manual states. I would think it's fine if you shorten it or set the pinion so it's further out from the motor, but just curious what everyone else does.
Thanks, Thanks Krio, I was pretty far off from that. I was only running about 1-1.5mm of thread showing. |
love this truck. had it in the street ran grate. the belt is not as tight as new its a good thing.
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wow, I ran mine only mm or so from the nut being flush with the end on carpet and it would still pop the front end up easily.
i must have gotten those super secret HD pads that WC has that work on everything :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
(Post 10740073)
I eyeball it. I don't bother measuring, as many pinions are different.
Thanks Krio, I was pretty far off from that. I was only running about 1-1.5mm of thread showing. |
Ugh.. The spirits do not want me to try out this new truck.
Had just finished building my new FT kit, complete with the v2 Exotech chassis, super neat wiring layout - only to have the new Hitec servo flake out during initial testing (as in drive around the garage to to set toe-in, etc). There are many neat design features of this truck to like (and some questionable), but the entire truck is practically built around the servo... I'm dreading having to basically tear down half of the truck to replace the servo. I suppose thats what I get for straying from the Savox servos that I know and trust. The specs on the Hitec were awesome (HS-7940TH). :( rant mode off. |
Remove the clicker cover, belt, belt cover, and front pulley assembly. Take out the 4 screws connecting the upper front deck to the center chassis along with the under-body mount/chassis brace screw and the whole upper deck should rotate up and out with the servo.
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^ This. I can get to just about anything on this truck in 10 min or so (and I spend most of my time looking for screws I've dropped).
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Thanks for the roadmap. :)
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 10740107)
wow, I ran mine only mm or so from the nut being flush with the end on carpet and it would still pop the front end up easily.
i must have gotten those super secret HD pads that WC has that work on everything :sneaky: Aaaah C-On now !!! My little secret & please don't tell everyone....:D Ae yellow pads are way underrated for the performance they bring to the Sc10 4x4... Adjusted to show only 1.5 mm of thread above lock nut.. |
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10739436)
After installing the carbon risers I got some understeer from the rear being so planted. Anything I can do besides taking them back out? It was fine before.
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I consider those pads to work well on Buggy and ST but they are a joke on this 4x4. Running a very loose track and have lost front wheel pull due to glazed slipper twice in two times out. Glazing on high grip I would understand but low grip loose loamy track, I am hoping these Garodisc's solve the problem. Rear VTS is holding up fine although I am torching inner slipper pad that drives front end.
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VTS tuning
ft wheels should pull almost as hard as the rear , my ride can make skid marks with both ft & back tires on carpet . Been using the heavy duty pad on the ft drive... |
Originally Posted by JLinney
(Post 10740730)
I consider those pads to work well on Buggy and ST but they are a joke on this 4x4. Running a very loose track and have lost front wheel pull due to glazed slipper twice in two times out. Glazing on high grip I would understand but low grip loose loamy track, I am hoping these Garodisc's solve the problem. Rear VTS is holding up fine although I am torching inner slipper pad that drives front end.
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Thanks for the info Dan.
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