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Old 02-29-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by IRM616
so what do you recommened with ur center diff setup if im running 4600k pro 4 and i got a 60 spur gear with my kit. im at 14/60 but havent been to the track.thanks

i run 15/60 with the 4600
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:44 PM
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is it just me, or does the truck seem more reactive in the air (side to side) with stick packs

not sure why it would, but mine does
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by old&slow
Hey m2racing ,

Please explain how these work as I am not understanding the function of a tapered hole.

Seems to me regardless of how big the entrance to the hole is ,there is only going to be so much flow through a given diameter. How does this change compression vs rebound if the oil is traveling through the same diameter hole in either direction.

I must be lame as I do not get the function of these.

O&S
With a tapered hole, turbulence is introduced later (at higher shaft speeds) and to a lesser degree when the oil is flowing into the conical side as opposed to the other way around. It all works fine and dandy, but good luck modifying it with any consistency. This is where the dual stage pistons shine. They produce the same result, but anyone can modify them with a simple drill bit for testing purposes and personal taste.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:01 PM
  #18439  
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Originally Posted by jodyfj40
Guys i bought the rtr and from the start i noticed the motor was running to hot. I'm getting 170+ after 8-10 runs. That was with the stock 14/62 setup. I put an aluminum heat sink on and went to a 13/62. I can't get any lower and still make the doubles on my track, but the temps are still high. Is there a chance it may be turning to fast and I need to go up to reduce temps? I'm new to this but I know heat will kill a motor, so I would love to get this worked out. I don't mind going faster but can't go any lower than the 13. Thanks for your help.
Jody

Check the entire driveline all spins freely. Disconnect the motor from the gears and check.
Also check the belt is installed correctly on an ALL the pulleys. It can twist over on one end and cause drag.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by roylo
Check the entire driveline all spins freely. Disconnect the motor from the gears and check.
Also check the belt is installed correctly on an ALL the pulleys. It can twist over on one end and cause drag.
I am going thru it right now, The slipper pads were glazed and I sanded them down and locked down the slipper. I'll pull the motor and check the belt. If it all checks out I may get a 16 pinion and run it tom to see if I was undergeared like mantis said. I'll check motor, esc, and slipper temps and see where we are.
Thanks
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:52 PM
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Finally got to run my truck today. Unfortunately track was over watered. Started to dry up about the time I was leaving. When it started go dry out truck was pretty hooked up. Running with the exotek chassis. Definitely a difference compared to my last truck. Running the MTK clutch basket with a tekin pro4 4000 motor. Think I need the dual rate shock pistons to settle the rear end down.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:57 PM
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Thumbs up Great day out....

Spent about 6 hours today just driving and getting a feel for a few mods. Big thanks to Craig for the Spring advice. I also decided to run with the long wheelbase and it feels like a million bucks! I had one super fast lap the whole day since I was concentrating on the "feel" of the truck. That being said I was more consistant im my lap times overall. So, Yellow Fronts on the Front and Blue Fronts on the Rear seem to be it for me at the moment. Need to buy the Front Spring Kit and go from there.

Sal

Craig...thanks again!
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
Spent about 6 hours today just driving and getting a feel for a few mods. Big thanks to Craig for the Spring advice. I also decided to run with the long wheelbase and it feels like a million bucks! I had one super fast lap the whole day since I was concentrating on the "feel" of the truck. That being said I was more consistant im my lap times overall. So, Yellow Fronts on the Front and Blue Fronts on the Rear seem to be it for me at the moment. Need to buy the Front Spring Kit and go from there.

Sal

Craig...thanks again!
What's the deal with running front springs on the rear?
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bajabro
What's the deal with running front springs on the rear?
Check the last few pages
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:08 PM
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Default LOL....Thanks Dan.

Originally Posted by SCTDan
Check the last few pages
Dan, I still havent had the courage to do the center stick conversion...but that may be coming soon. I actually have a new center and rear section to sacrifice for this.

Sal
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:18 PM
  #18446  
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Originally Posted by SCTDan
Check the last few pages
Thanks
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:58 PM
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I canceled my order for the Saddles and Exotek.
I'm going to do a Center Stick pack and lay some weights along the edge of the packs for as low as I can get without the Chassis weight and bag it. I'm tired of spending money on 'this' rig. Spring is coming and the 1/8 are opening around here. I have an RC8 to tune. It will remain my indoor Truck until I figure it out.

I'm going to try the Spring deal tonight and race tomorrow probably. I don't think there's anymore input needed, but I'll voice my opinion about it. (hoping to drive tomorrow is more like it)


On that note, Does anyone have the page number any of the Center Mounted Setup Pics are on? I just want to ballpark idea my own Modification. Thread search failed me this time.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Why quit there - how about blue or yellow? Anything is an improvement over the long rears.
I do have the blues handy, definitely could try them!

Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Shock ends: I normally run 2 turns out on the shock ends but when our track is wet and the bite comes up I will go down to 0 to 1 turn out depending on the layout. Right hardly any jumps and I am running slicks on wet clay so 0 turns out.

Front springs on the rear: Right now I like the greens on the rear with the stage 2 pistons. The white springs I felt had too much rebound with the stage 2's but was real good with standard 1.2 pistons. With your bigger jumps I would look at the whites because it does seem to help the truck jump more level.

This weekend I have a big two day race and will be testing shocks and springs so I will have a better opinion (for what its worth) after this weekend.
Thanks Cameron, looking forward to the report!
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:27 PM
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Can someone explain to me why the Rear Reds aren't in any conversation about this spring issue?

They're 3.4, and some of you are putting 3.5 greens on like it's an improvement?

I can see the whites, and definitely the blues. But Why aren't we using the reds and skipping to throwing fronts on the rears? Is there something about the length and the wider range of compression compared to the stubbier springs (front?)

I've read every post. Don't re-explain, just clarify a tad for me?
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
I canceled my order for the Saddles and Exotek.
I'm going to do a Center Stick pack and lay some weights along the edge of the packs for as low as I can get without the Chassis weight and bag it. I'm tired of spending money on 'this' rig. Spring is coming and the 1/8 are opening around here. I have an RC8 to tune. It will remain my indoor Truck until I figure it out.

I'm going to try the Spring deal tonight and race tomorrow probably. I don't think there's anymore input needed, but I'll voice my opinion about it. (hoping to drive tomorrow is more like it)


On that note, Does anyone have the page number any of the Center Mounted Setup Pics are on? I just want to ballpark idea my own Modification. Thread search failed me this time.
Post 7854

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post9711364

Thats just the first one...I think he did a revised version too.

Sal
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