Jeff, friday i had up to 30% drag brake to try and get the nose to dip immediately in hopes that i could just let off and then use throttle to bring it back up. It actually worked a little better because once you get too far up air makes it impossible for even the losi's to bring back down. But it made the rest of the track harder to get around, so no point in that. For me im not having a nose dip problem its the opposite.

Funny, that's almost all I've been changing at the track these days.

As an experiment, I 'motored down' and went to a 6.5 540 two pole Novak SS motor from the Ballistic 4.5 550 - partially because I wanted to get away from the pin modification on the slipper, and partially because I wanted the weight out of the back of the chassis. It handles better, and has more usable torque than the 550 in certain parts of the track, but I can't run a tight line around the corner before the dreaded "Monster Triple" and just nail it like some of the guys can (either using 550s or the 4 pole Tekin motors). This is not a deal breaker on the stopwatch - except when the guy following you usually jumps the triple every time, because he is going to, and you are going to get run over and that tends to kill your lap.

Novak 6.5, with the 13mm rotor, and geared at 18/93, 20 degrees of timing in at 5K, it temped after the main at 138, Yeah Racing 180 fan. And thanks Cameron Kellogg - couldn't of done it without the pointers.

(Ran the 12.3mm rotor in the last round of qualifing, motor made less usable power (but fast at the end of the big straight) and ran 155 degrees. Ran a 12.3 rotor and 93/16 in the second round, slightly less usable power than the main, got ran over by a guy in the middle of the big straight with a Pro 4.)

It is controllable on small jumps and lower speeds . It gets amplified with 30' triples taken at 30+ MPH. there is no setting or adjustment you can make to change the what the truck does "while you are already in the air". You can make adjustments to effect how it takes off but on high speed jumps you need to have the ability to stay on throttle all the way up the face and then tap the brakes to bring the nose back down. On top of that whatever changes you make cant take away from the rest of the track! i have no doubt I can make the truck take off how i want but it will be horrible around the other 99% of the track!

SC10 4x4 JUMPS GREAT+++
 

A OFFICIAL IMO

Nothing wrong with

the Sc104x4 performance on jumps or what ever ........:tire:

Not starting a fight with anyone about, no diss intended...


Just happy with my ride ....:cool:


On a side note :

I started preparing Scott Browns Sc10 4x4 yesterday , will be going the Rumble in the Rocky's ( Denver)....


Why in the world would Scott allow a guy like me to even touch one of his rides ?
Cus he a busy man with family, work , ect....



So
he ask for "me" for some help ....:D






Despite all the word on the thread saying the team set-up does not perform , this set-up is what I'm installing on his truck....
Won't have to wait long for results as
the race is this week-end ...

I used to make those jumps with the Losi, once I get the weight close (but not as heavy) I should be able to make them. A lot of it has to do with the body, I have a Flotek body from Proline on the way, they help a LOT if you cut all the vents out, very little parachute effect.

What about aerodynamic adjustments? I'm sure there is something that can be done legally (that is until ROAR finds out....). What body are you running?

would it have helped when AE designed the motor opposite of the side as it is now?
and the belt + slipper + pully's flipped to the other side ?

Im talking about the mass rotation of the motor


edit: where I race we have a little extra kick-up on top of the jump. so when you use a little stiffer spring the back of the truck wants to get up in the air.
This also helps a lot with jumping large jumps at high speed

I run 550's. I currently run a reedy sonic 4.5 in my truck and love it. Super smooth, super fast, and very torquey (if that's a word). I have tons of punch anywhere i want it. Motor runs around 130-140 after 5 minute race.

I run a Tekin SC4X 4.5. No need for the 4 pole for me, the 2 pole has more than enough run time, runs cooler and I have zero problems making 10 minute mains (don't need a gigantic battery). :)

i understand the whole throttle ccontrol thing with no :tire:rubbers:tire: touching the ground you are kinda limited :lol: .. i also undertand that you can adjust the roll in the air with the steering :sneaky:;).

im looking for that initial takeoff attitude adjustment/rule of thumb.. :nod::nod:

I disagree - you haven't had any usable input on this forum for the past 4 or 5 days, unless your goal was to troll Mantis. A reasonable argument can be made that you haven't done it in months; and maybe ever. IMO George wins races in spite of that he believes he knows, not because of it.

And so this is completely clear and transparent to all users on this forum - I'm not attempting to get at you, or show you up, or one up you, or anything of the sort.

Alright so this brings up something that I have been thinking about over the last few pages of this thread.

Jumping.

Generally speaking, I haven't found many setup changes that will single-handedly solve a trucks jumping problem. Alot of the issue has to do with approach.

If your truck/buggy/short course/etc is jumping nose high or nose down consistently, there's a good chance its bottoming out on the face of the jump and rebounding too soon. Every jump is different and with that each requires a different approach. Some jumps require you to roll up to the face and accelerate up the face. Some jumps require you to accelerate to the face of the jump and let off going up the face.

If you have tried multiple approaches and it still isn't working, try walking the track and walk the line that you normally run. Check for rocks, holes, etc on the run up and make sure you are hitting a smooth part of the face. If you are hitting a section that has a massive rut or bump in it before the actual takeoff, the suspension will unload and cause the vehicle to jump incorrectly. It is even more pronounced if you only hit the obstacle with one side of your truck.

If all else fails, then its time to look at your setup. If your truck is jumping nose down (on every jump every lap) then you might have too soft of a front suspension package compared to your rear suspension. If your truck is jumping nose high then you might have too stiff of a front suspension package compared to the rear suspension.


I can tell you that, there are times when I am hitting a jump perfectly with the right suspension and i will want to bring the nose up with the throttle but it just doesnt come up. And I'm not talking SC10 4x4, all vehicles.


As for the jump in the video. That thing is MASSIVE! There is no way I'd be hitting that thing with anything other than an 1/8. Granted I would definitely try it with a 4x4 but I doubt I'd even think about it in racing. :ha::ha:

There is more to add, but this is all I can comprehend this morning! :o


BTW, not saying you guys are hitting jumps wrong or your ideas are wrong! Just trying to help people with their jumping technique!

If you are accustomed to driving a traditional 3 diff car (like a 1/8 buggy, truggy, etc) you need to stay on the throttle more and keep consistent throttle all the way off the jump face and almost to the landing.

I've found as this truck is lighter and the drive train much more immediate, the instant lashback of letting off throttle even after the apex in the air is enough to make the truck nose over.

I'm going to try setting up the ESC with a bunch of push control and see what happens.

Jeff my truck is very heavy, i added exo chassis, tall heavy saddles and 4 additional oz on top of that! overall i am probably close to 10oz heavier than yours! besides high speed jumps the truck is awesome. I am only going to have these issues at that particular track but i normally run there every week, Against those same dudes so I have to come up with something or just go there and race for second place! Thats not acceptable!

Murk, right now the belt assembly spins the same direction as the wheels so its not hindering anything in my opinion. If my idler gear theory works its probably the easiest way to fix it.

Osherman, sorry i misunderstood your question. In general its about rebound when you hit the face, stiffer springs/lighter oil will make that end of the truck fly higher than the other. all things being equal of course.

Thank you Craig!

that rite there is what i was looking for!!! thanks!! :nod: