First batch of trucks was like this. The very first post on this thread has all the info about the initial assembly.

One thing Cherry didn't mention...while you're topping up your shocks, you will want to loctite the piston screw. Everyone who didn't had it come loose at some point. Remember to let the loctite set for several hours before filling the shocks (loctite recommend 24 hours for a proper cure). If you fill the shocks with oil right away, the loctite won't set and you won't be any farther ahead.

I kind of agree with your rant...anyone who cares about their stuff would realize the shoddy job done by the 14 yr old in china who assembled the stuff for $0.15/hr and rebuild the shocks and the diffs right away. Save the money, charge the same, and save the end user the hassle of correcting the problem!


As much as I hate building shocks and diffs, I hate REBUILDING shocks and diffs even more!

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can the FT kit actually be a full KIT!!! ;)

Viper stuff
 

Thanks for the responses on the Viper vs Tekin. All info is appreciated.

Since there is this talk about diff set-ups. The manual says 20k f and 5k r. Should I stick with that or try 10k f and 5 or 7k r?? I'll be racing on a small to medium smooth indoor tracks(s)


I'm waiting on my shock and diff fluids to show up and twidiling my thumbs :ha:

Diff fluid primarily comes down to your center slipper situation. What are you using?

I would try 5k rear and 10k up front. I am running on a tight indoor track as well, and that diff setup works great :nod:

There is a possibility that you have some excess drag in the drivetrain.
What you need to do is unmesh the pinion and spur gear. Then check to see if the truck rolls freely. If it does not, take the clicker off and the rear spur and slipper assembly. Now you can check the front and rear topshaft for any binding in the gear boxes. If it is binding, try loosening the three screws that attaches the diff case to the rear motorplate and in the front, loosen the three scres that attaches the gearbox to the front belt cover.

if you have more questions, fee free to ask:)

Thanks!

So, I ordered and received both the Exotek LCG chassis and the RC Shox inline saddlepack solution or Exotek. Unfortunately, the RX8 is too big to fit. Options are to order up a side by side saddle mounting solution or ditch the RX8 for something smaller.

Suggestions?

Ditch that rx8 and get an orion r10 pro!!!!!!

Im still in the process of building the kit. I got a clutch basket and the three garodisc to install. I'm new to the 4x4 SCT scene and still learning..:o


Thanks again Chad!

Say it aint so. Man I hate to hear that, I was about 5 minutes away from ordering saddels and the rcshox battery tray. I'm not sure I can give up my rx8, can't afford saddels tray and a new esc.

I have an RX8 and an Exotek and Mantis is putting saddles on it and racing it so I'm sure there is a way to make it fit.

It will fit, u just dremel the fan cover a little bit

Side by side - yes, inline saddles - not without taking material away from RC Shox bracket, RX8, or both.

Marcus please chime in when you get a minute. I have been in the garage measuring and can't figure it out. Thanks for the input Jeff, I hope it will fit. Have you been to the new (I think its new) track in Jacksonville? I see your not too far from it. I live in Savannah, me and a couple of others were thinking about going down and checking it out.

Which one? RCIS or Shiverville?

I been to RCIS and liked it a lot. :nod: Shiverville looks nice but I haven't made it there yet. I'd love to go but the 2+ hr trips are killing me on gas lol.