gnatsum69

iTrader: (65)

hey guys i have a losi 8ight t 1.0 with a mamba 2200kv setup runninf 4s tekno conversion.

i have a bad sounding clicking/cruching sounds when i brake really hard it is using the motor to brake the mechanical brakes have been removed.

i can accelarate as quick as i want and can brake fairly hard but if i just do sharp jabs on the brakes it makes the noise. i have checked front and back diffs but dont really know what i am looking for.

any input would be really good thanks

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

So you have no clicking on power, and only on brake when you jab the brakes. Does it continuously click when you hold down the brakes while slowing down? I would get it up to speed (on the street) and partially apply the breaks, not a complete lockup, and if you hear click click click, it sounds like you ring/pinion in the diff.

neobart

iTrader: (4)

Rear diff most likely, if you're lucky it can be saved. Mesh needs to be tight.

B.A. Racer

iTrader: (10)

+1 on the rear diff

gnatsum69

iTrader: (65)

i thought if it was the rear diff would be more likely to make the noise under full throttle not braking?

gnatsum69

iTrader: (65)

thats correct no clicking under power only when i jab on the brakes. if i get the car upto full speed on the road i can still stop quite quickly without getting the noise but if i just jam then on it clicks but only a couple of times

neobart

iTrader: (4)

My truck did the same thing once, I could only hear the clicking when braking hard. Opened up the rear diff and ring and pinion where chewed up beyond saving. That's what I get for not checking the mesh often.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

#1 buy the 8ight 2.0 rear diff housing
#2 shim it up better before it's too late, if it's not already too late.

I didn't post until now because it looked like everyone gave the correct answer, but hop on ebay snag a full rear 2.0 diff if you're smart and keep a few shims around for adjustment.

The 2.0 housing has less issues, but you need to shim and re-shim either the 1.0 or 2.0 versions to keep them healthy.

Good luck

PS this is pretty much only w/ the truggy and the rear diff. In 3+ years of racing the 8ight-e 1.0 and 1.5 buggy I've never had a single issue with either diff, while on my truggy I've replaced about 5 diff pinion/spur combos. This is with a neu 1700 on 5s, then a 2200 on 4s for the last year or so. My nitro has only had 1 go bad, so really it's the combination of brushless torque, and the weight of the truggy. I did swap over to a tekno e-clutch on my truggy and have not had one go bad yet, but I am also more careful w/ the shims now.