R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-30-2004, 03:55 PM   #16
Tech Elite
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

The MF2 turnbuckles are different than the BK2 turnbuckles. If you plan on using the new white ballcups on your BK2, make sure you buy a set of turnbuckles from Lunsford (these will be the same as the MF2 units).
__________________
Aaron Waldron - LiveRC
www.liverc.com
Aaron Waldron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 10:20 AM   #17
Tech Regular
 
Doughty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 318
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Casper
The MF2 white ball cups will end the ball cup breaking problem. Other then those, bog bone universals, I put titanium ball studs in the nose plate and the rear shock tower. This car just about has it all. I run the trinity rear alum hubs with the vertical ball studs and the trinity rear pivot support (the front one the losi rear support is already alum.)
I am with Casper on this.

I would look at the MF2 rear hubs instead of the Trinity ones,
The Trinity ones offer a verticle ball stud at the expense of extra weight
Get most of this stuff and your car should be dialed
Doughty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 11:56 AM   #18
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 8
Default

A couple of questions.
Why are the dogbones better than the CVD's?
I have been trying a long arm set-up that Joe Pillars posted on an internet site. It seems to work well for me at the track I've been running on. Has Aaron, or anyone else, tried a long arm set-up that they can recommend? When using the longest rear camber link setting, the threads on the stock links are not very far into the ball cups. Which Lunsford link can I use to get the threads further into the ball cups?
GaryF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 12:18 PM   #19
Tech Regular
 
Doughty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 318
Default

I find long arms the best for me,
I would post my setup but in the UK we race on such different tracks than you guys it would not really be worth it.

I have found that using the long arms on the rear the 'C' hole of either the Trinity or MF2 hubs work well with that.
Doughty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2004, 11:23 PM   #20
Tech Elite
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

Gary - Truhe's long arm setup from the website has worked pretty well for me. Lately I will find a setup I like and use the VLA as yet another adjustment to help fine tune my car, without changing other things on the car.

As a rule of thumb:

- In the front, long arm will give you more steering, especially low speed. The car will transition faster when using long arms. Short arm will make the car feel smoother.
- In the rear, long arm will give you more sidebite. Short arm will give you more forward bite.
__________________
Aaron Waldron - LiveRC
www.liverc.com
Aaron Waldron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 09:44 AM   #21
Tech Apprentice
 
rchotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 56
rear toe in and front caster

I am running my bk2 as an EDM on dirt oval. I need to reduce rear toe from stock to 1 degree. Which hubs will do this? Or is this set by the rear susp mounts?

And I want to reduce the front caster. Any parts out that will help here?

Thanks,
Rod
rchotrod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 10:35 AM   #22
Tech Elite
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

rchotrod - TK5103 is the part number for the Trinity 2 degree rear hubs for the original XXX. Use the outside hole on the arm to maintain the correct width, and put the hubs on backwards to give yourself 1 degree of toe-in per side.

There are no parts out there to change the front caster. The only way to do this would be to add washers under the front screws on the front pivot block (the same way you control anti-squat in the rear, only on the top of the pivot block) to change the angle of the whole arm.
__________________
Aaron Waldron - LiveRC
www.liverc.com
Aaron Waldron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 10:55 AM   #23
Tech Champion
 
dgullickson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: I'm a Dork Fish
Posts: 7,662
Trader Rating: 45 (96%+)
Send a message via AIM to dgullickson Send a message via Yahoo to dgullickson
Default

Go here and e-mail about thier rear carriers, I have been testing them and they are also lighter than stock:

http://www.amainraceway.com/content/products.asp
dgullickson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 11:57 AM   #24
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
rchotrod - TK5103 is the part number for the Trinity 2 degree rear hubs for the original XXX. Use the outside hole on the arm to maintain the correct width, and put the hubs on backwards to give yourself 1 degree of toe-in per side.
Wouldn't using the original XXX rear hubs make the BK2 to wide??



These (Trinity TK5103) fitted in the outer hole of the BK2 wishbones would be WAY wide.

Not even sure the driveshaft would fit???

Don't hold me to this, I may just be on another planet
_sleigh_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 12:12 PM   #25
Tech Elite
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

The outside hole on the BK2 arms is the same as the old arms. The rear inner pivot was moved in .100 from the old car, and that .100 comes back into play with the new true-spin washer. The hubs will work just fine.

I'm not sure how Trinity messed up that picture..but the XXX hubs have two holes on top for mounting.
__________________
Aaron Waldron - LiveRC
www.liverc.com
Aaron Waldron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 04:02 PM   #26
Tech Prophet
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,764
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

I think the white washers cover up the outside hole. The new BK2/MF2 rear hubs have 3 holes in them along with the two LVA holes
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 08:52 PM   #27
Tech Regular
 
SlobbaTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 423
Default

You can use the old xxx hubs in short arm position on bk2 rear arms and have everything the same and right, just not option of running long rear arms. The inner pivots are narrower, hence the wider alum wheel spacers on the axles.
SlobbaTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 11:23 PM   #28
Tech Elite
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

Ooooh I get it. The short holes on the arm are new, so it's the outside holes on the hub that are new..

Sorry I mixed that one up..

Thanks for the help slobbers
__________________
Aaron Waldron - LiveRC
www.liverc.com
Aaron Waldron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2004, 09:24 AM   #29
Tech Apprentice
 
rchotrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 56
Default thanks

Here is what I am going to try. At least when I get enough extra cash.

Get the new rear hubs with the three camber holes and the VLA holes, and get the new Skip Gear camber mod for the bk2.

That will really open up the tuning options on the rear of this car.

See ya,
Rod
rchotrod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2004, 10:41 AM   #30
Tech Regular
 
SlobbaTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 423
Default

The short arms on bk2 are "stock" length on xxx, the long arm position on bk2 f/r are the new holes they added, on truck long front is stock, short is new, short rear is stock and long rear is new.
SlobbaTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB TC3 upgrade parts.. vrcoupe R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 11-20-2007 05:52 AM
WTB associated TC3 electric upgrade parts vrcoupe R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 3 11-19-2007 10:27 PM
WTB: XXX-S Aluminum or Upgrade Parts... Maxxratter R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 09-08-2005 02:17 PM
upgrade parts zeibacher Nitro On-Road 2 06-13-2004 11:38 AM
Serpent 705, Optional/upgrade Parts, Nip Spare Parts, Etc.. nizee R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 29 08-22-2003 11:11 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:32 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net