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Old 08-22-2004, 08:30 PM   #1
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Default TC3 Rally (and rally in general as well)

I just got a rally car about 2 weeks ago (used) and started messing around with it earlier this week. You talk about addictive! I can just see this thing turning into a money pit, cause I drive it everywhere my other 2 cars can't go, and that's a whole lotta drivin in my neighborhood!

You know I'm gonna ask the same thing everybody else with a TC3 rally has been asking since Associated released it... where to get an inner body? Associated says CML in the UK, but they don't list it on their site anymore. Anybody know where to get one? I just got done making one out of sheetmetal, but man you talk about ugly! I'm wondering if anybody has successfully converted one of the HPI versions to work, or if something else is close enough for government work.

I see the last Rally thread died in like March or April, so I figured it was time to start a new one. Who here still has these?
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Old 08-22-2004, 09:51 PM   #2
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i have absolutely nothing of value to share. but im seriously thinking about getting a TC3 rally, so ill be watching too
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Old 08-24-2004, 11:36 AM   #3
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Couple of suggestions on an inner body:

#1. I saw one guy who bought a B3 body and molded it to fit using a heat gun and then mounted it using the screws on the chassis braces

#2. If you are worried about stuff in your steering rack, you can easily convert to the Nitro TC3 steering system which is the best thing to do for a TC3 Rallyl anyways

#3. checkout whether the HPI or Losi Rally Weapon inner shell might be able to be cut to fit.

I havent seen the actual inner shell for the TC3 for some time, so it will take some ingenuitity but it can be done

Rally kicks!!!
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Old 08-24-2004, 05:09 PM   #4
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Well, I built one. It took about 2 hours or so, and I made it out of sheetmetal and AC ducting aluminum tape. It has grille cloth over the top for ventilation. I also aluminum taped the entire bottom of the car, with grille cloth over the battery tray vents and the motor can vent. With some of the scrap pieces left over, I made a front and rear scrape plate to protect the ends of the car and it also covers all the screws for the front and rear diffs. The car is now about 95% sealed off. The rest of the open areas have bristles I cut off of a paint brush and stuck to the sheetmetal inner body. I just ran the ever loving heck out of it for 15 minutes in tall grass, rocks, sand, dirt, mud, anything I could find within 200 feet of my driveway. I opened it up and it had just about enough sand to fill a contact lense (no rocks, leaves, or grass). The electronics are about the same temp as they were when it had no inner body. So I'd say mission accomplished.

Total investment:

2 pieces of sheet metal (from the ducting aisle at Lowe's) = 0.36 each
Roll of aluminum tape = $6.50
Paint brush = 0.59

The only downside? It's ugly as all get out. But who cares what it looks like, because it will save me a ton of money on electrical wear and tear.
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Old 08-24-2004, 06:54 PM   #5
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Thats cool, glad it worked for you...I am not that handy with sheet metal personally, so are there any tracks near you that run rally?

http://www.sixfoottiger.com/admin/in...iew&partyid=48

The yellow Ford Focus with the red tape on the hood is mine
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Old 08-24-2004, 08:57 PM   #6
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Oh, I never said I was good with sheet metal As a matter of fact, this is my first time ever cutting any sheetmetal. This stuff I got is so thin, it's more like cutting plastic; it has very little density to it at all. I'm not real sure what it's actual purpose is, or why it comes bent like it does, but for $0.36 I figured if I screw it up I really didn't lose a whole lot. I would guess that it probably weighs the same as a full 1/10 scale body. So while it may not be the lightest thing in the world, it definitely will do the job.

I envy that track of yours. The local hobbytown has a dirt track out back of their shop. It's pretty much a dirt oval that happens to have a couple of jumps in it with a twisty part. Not much to it, but I figure I'll at least try it out.

I have a 1/3 acre lot next to my house that is technically DOT right of way, but DOT has told us they will never develop it. The connecting piece of property in the next neighborhood has been sold, so there's nothing they could connect it to even if they wanted to. I'm trying to decide if I want to make it a rally track or a drift track, or a combination of the two (rally half, drift half). Decisions, decisions.
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Old 08-24-2004, 09:27 PM   #7
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Checkboard, the track in the picture, is in the guys backyard, and he doesnt race, he just maintains it for us to come race at once a month...If is an awesome track....

Let me know if you need any help with a rally track, there are a couple of things we do with our rally series that you would want to keep in mind when building a track...

#1. The winner of the previous stage picks the layout of the next stage, we don't run the normal track layout or direction, or even stay on the track for that matter, we keep a few pieces of plywood, orange construction cones and other props around so we can make custom tracks...We even do figure 8 with cross-overs, it is a blast, I love it more then any other class I run!
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Old 08-28-2004, 03:04 PM   #8
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Here's another question for us few but proud Rally racers. What springs should I be running in the tc3 rally? It came with green up front and I believe black in the rear, but those just seem way too soft. I run it pretty hard, so I'm wondering what you're suggestions would be (reply in colors, please, that grams per cubic whatchamacallit stuff is too confusing)
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Old 08-28-2004, 10:43 PM   #9
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Actually I run my Losi Rally pretty soft, you dont want the car too stiff otherwise it can't absorb the bumps as well...if you feel it is way to soft, maybe try a heavier oil before spring, or change the piston from a 2 to a 1....and go from there, you can also lay the shocks down more to make the suspension more progressive too...

HTH,
John
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Old 09-11-2004, 12:49 AM   #10
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Default rally TL01

hi guys im wondering if any of you have seen a tamiya tl01 rally car i am currently bashing 1 around and was wondering if any1 has or has made an underbody/longer shocks/waterproofing/etc any help whould be graetly appresiated
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Old 09-13-2004, 11:15 AM   #11
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Well, you can usually find people selling the Losi Rally Weapon shocks on ebay and they are long enough to be used....you could also find out the shock shaft diamater and look for other like manufactures that are a bit longer....I actually use Associated Threaded TC shocks on the front of my rally weapon....car has been dialed since I put them on
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Old 09-13-2004, 01:28 PM   #12
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Which should i buy tc3 or rs4 rally?
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Old 09-13-2004, 02:25 PM   #13
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With the number of TC3's there will be available for sale real soon I would definitely go TC3....
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Old 09-16-2004, 02:25 AM   #14
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As far as the TL01 Rally department Ivr got you covered. If you want to go with Tamiya suspension conponents I would recomend the oil filled shocks for the TG-10. Unscrew the Shock end 1 turn. Yhe best motor for the Rally car will be a P2k Paradox 2000 geared at 19. Make sure to run the lightend drive shaft!! If you want to be super dailed and truely rally it Run at water proof speed control and run the white bushings in the hubs to reduce weight and rust!
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Old 09-22-2004, 07:52 AM   #15
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I've completed the chassis mods for my TC3 Rally, just waiting for the hardware to come in to complete the project and build the car up....I keep trying to replace my Losi Rally Weapon and keep failing, first I bought an HPI Rally and I've decided to keep the RW, now I am building a TC3 Rally, but I am still running the RW real strong in our local points series....

Can any of you guys out there with TC3 Rally's give me a gearing recommendation, would I gear it just like my onroad TC3?
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