Front end plowing
02-02-2011, 10:28 PM
#1
Front end plowing
Hey everyone,
I drive a Losi XXX-T MF2, and im running JConcepts Bar Codes blue compound tires, what is a good fix for this, mess with the toe, or move the shock position, please let me know what you think ??????
Thanks for your input, :-)
Traxxaslosinut
I drive a Losi XXX-T MF2, and im running JConcepts Bar Codes blue compound tires, what is a good fix for this, mess with the toe, or move the shock position, please let me know what you think ??????
Thanks for your input, :-)
Traxxaslosinut
02-02-2011, 11:19 PM
#2
things to try... run a slight bit of front toe out and shorten the rear upper camber link.. laying the front shocks down some will help as well
02-03-2011, 07:55 AM
#4
I think he means move the rear upper camber link in one hole, then readjust your camber back to where it was. Basically making the link itself shorter.
By laying a shock down you move the top side in / bottom side out. This makes a shock more progressive. You get a softer initial compression, good for turn-in and small bumps, while they get stiffer as they compress to handle jumps and rougher stuff.
If you are still pushing you may have to stiffen rear or soften the front.
This can also depend on what tires you are running and track conditions.
By laying a shock down you move the top side in / bottom side out. This makes a shock more progressive. You get a softer initial compression, good for turn-in and small bumps, while they get stiffer as they compress to handle jumps and rougher stuff.
If you are still pushing you may have to stiffen rear or soften the front.
This can also depend on what tires you are running and track conditions.
02-03-2011, 08:40 AM
#5
I think he means move the rear upper camber link in one hole, then readjust your camber back to where it was. Basically making the link itself shorter.
By laying a shock down you move the top side in / bottom side out. This makes a shock more progressive. You get a softer initial compression, good for turn-in and small bumps, while they get stiffer as they compress to handle jumps and rougher stuff.
If you are still pushing you may have to stiffen rear or soften the front.
This can also depend on what tires you are running and track conditions.
By laying a shock down you move the top side in / bottom side out. This makes a shock more progressive. You get a softer initial compression, good for turn-in and small bumps, while they get stiffer as they compress to handle jumps and rougher stuff.
If you are still pushing you may have to stiffen rear or soften the front.
This can also depend on what tires you are running and track conditions.
Thanks again
Traxxaslosinut
02-03-2011, 09:29 AM
#6
Other things you might want to play with his moving your rear hubs forward in the arms or standing up your rear shocks on the tower will also get increased rotation through a corner. Also consider changing tires too as to this will increase steering if you need it.
02-04-2011, 04:11 PM
#8
I think he means move the rear upper camber link in one hole, then readjust your camber back to where it was. Basically making the link itself shorter.
By laying a shock down you move the top side in / bottom side out. This makes a shock more progressive. You get a softer initial compression, good for turn-in and small bumps, while they get stiffer as they compress to handle jumps and rougher stuff.
If you are still pushing you may have to stiffen rear or soften the front.
This can also depend on what tires you are running and track conditions.
By laying a shock down you move the top side in / bottom side out. This makes a shock more progressive. You get a softer initial compression, good for turn-in and small bumps, while they get stiffer as they compress to handle jumps and rougher stuff.
If you are still pushing you may have to stiffen rear or soften the front.
This can also depend on what tires you are running and track conditions.
please let me know,
Thanks
Last edited by TraxxasLosinut; 02-04-2011 at 04:16 PM. Reason: forgot front shocks
02-04-2011, 10:06 PM
#10
[QUOTE=GizmoJunkie;8601736]Your best bet is to make one change at a time and drive it to see what it does. I know it can get time consuming and redundant but it's the beat way to learn. After a while you will start to surprise yourself 
[/QUOTE[/I]
[I] know it is going to be time consuming, and im ok with that, I am asking these questions so I can learn, this truck is alot different from my old RC10T that I used to race, thanks for all the help, it is greatly appriciated.
Take care,
Traxxaslosinut
[/QUOTE[/I][I] know it is going to be time consuming, and im ok with that, I am asking these questions so I can learn, this truck is alot different from my old RC10T that I used to race, thanks for all the help, it is greatly appriciated.
Take care,
Traxxaslosinut
02-05-2011, 12:07 AM
#11
What about your diff?
02-05-2011, 06:45 AM
#12
What do you mean how I have it adjusted, I have not changed the adjustment since it was built, per the manual instructions, and I do have the Diff and Slipper adjusted so it slips for the first foot or so.
If you have a better idea please let me know what your idea is.
Thanks,
Traxxaslosinut
If you have a better idea please let me know what your idea is.
Thanks,
Traxxaslosinut
02-05-2011, 08:12 AM
#13
Tech Rookie
mf2's did have a pretty bad push, I remember ballstud spacer removal was decently effective..
02-06-2011, 12:56 AM
#14
I mean how tight, or how free is it? Is it crunchy? You don't want it to tight or it won't work right.
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