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Tekin Rx8 & T8 2650kv kit on 6s OR MMM combo 2650kv on 6s ????? >

Tekin Rx8 & T8 2650kv kit on 6s OR MMM combo 2650kv on 6s ?????

Tekin Rx8 & T8 2650kv kit on 6s OR MMM combo 2650kv on 6s ?????

Old 01-31-2011, 12:42 PM
  #31  
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the tekin 2650kv motor runs way to hot to run on 6s, i have been told it can only run around 3-4s or proper gearing

the castle 2650kv runs much cooler on the other hand and i always run mine on 6s
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:12 PM
  #32  
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Well Shawn, I've been looking at pics of the Ve8 and I have to say I don't care for the setup at all. Bad idea putting the motor and batts on the same side like that. I can't see how you'd ever balance out the weight like that.

I do however think you can move some stuff around and get good results.

Just thinking out loud here...

Ditch the radio box and mechanical brakes&servo. Keep the steering servo where it is, or maybe fit in a lay down style mount? You should see if there's a lay down style mount made just for the Ve8 (homework, don't buy anything yet). Without the Esc, receiver box, and brake stuff on that side you'd have plenty of room for a big battery tray and the weight balance would be better having the batts opposite diagonally from the motor.

Where the batts are now could be used for the Mamba XL.

See where I'm going with this idea?
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Old 01-31-2011, 04:27 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
Well Shawn, I've been looking at pics of the Ve8 and I have to say I don't care for the setup at all. Bad idea putting the motor and batts on the same side like that. I can't see how you'd ever balance out the weight like that.

I do however think you can move some stuff around and get good results.

Just thinking out loud here...

Ditch the radio box and mechanical brakes&servo. Keep the steering servo where it is, or maybe fit in a lay down style mount? You should see if there's a lay down style mount made just for the Ve8 (homework, don't buy anything yet). Without the Esc, receiver box, and brake stuff on that side you'd have plenty of room for a big battery tray and the weight balance would be better having the batts opposite diagonally from the motor.

Where the batts are now could be used for the Mamba XL.

See where I'm going with this idea?


yeah i feel yah but you have to look at the HHH chassis not the Ve8 ( hhh Chassis is excusively for the ve8 )

and btw i can now post links !!!!!











all these setups , same chassis

this is what you need to look at not the ve8

the ve8 hase its drive shaft scrooked , hhh is straight Big + for proportion abilities , the mamba xl can be easely mounted on the HHH plastic plate over the cd , i will still have place for a custom sealed small box for my Rx

i will ask Harley in 15 min , if its possible to relocate the motor mount 8 mm backwards since these are done from scratch !

let me know what you think !
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Old 01-31-2011, 04:57 PM
  #34  
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AWESOME!!!

That's a way better way to go just make sure you've got enough length for the batts you want to use.

I'm switching from 5000mah 4S 40/50C turnigy's to a smaller 2650mah 4S 40/50C turnigy's... I haven't ran them and logged the ripple current, voltage drop, and mah used before they hit the LVC.
So I can't realy recomend them yet, but they're shorter and thin enough to stack 2 high in a single tray if I want to.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14993

144x42x25mm and 322grams. Should have no problem putting out over 100 amps.

Very cool on the custom chassis, I would say just start adding up wieghts and make sure your as even side to side as you can be.

You're off to a very good start!
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:22 PM
  #35  
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Any chance he could lengthen the chassis for you? Add the extra length to the front shaft only (maybe use rear shafts on both ends of the center diff) and buy you more room for the longer can motors that way? I can't really see moving the center diff back any without loosing the ability to use saddle packs.

Hard some times to judge lengths without having it right in front of you
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:29 PM
  #36  
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Those packs won't fit, 140mm is absolutely the max the chassis can take and that depends on how it's wired. Slow boat but these would probably work. http://cgi.ebay.com/35c-14-8v-3000mA...item1c0e689ae9
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
Any chance he could lengthen the chassis for you? Add the extra length to the front shaft only (maybe use rear shafts on both ends of the center diff) and buy you more room for the longer can motors that way? I can't really see moving the center diff back any without loosing the ability to use saddle packs.

Hard some times to judge lengths without having it right in front of you
ok go check out what i asked Harley ( http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hassis-41.html )

youre way is the best ! if i extend the front of the buggy i will have 27mm + just buy a other 105mm shaft to replace the 78mm original front shaft .... more clearance = 4'' motor !! = 103mm total !

thats the best way hands down !
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:46 PM
  #38  
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If 140mm is the absolute max you could go with these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15004 137x43x28, 3300mah, 30/40C and 375grams. $32.21 plus 1 cent shipping.

P.s. I'm only looking at lipo's from the USA warehouse as shipping is MUCH cheaper and they will warranty them without having to send them overseas.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
If 140mm is the absolute max you could go with these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15004 137x43x28, 3300mah, 30/40C and 375grams. $32.21 plus 1 cent shipping.

P.s. I'm only looking at lipo's from the USA warehouse as shipping is MUCH cheaper and they will warranty them without having to send them overseas.
damn for that price i'dd buy 8 of em ! for 260$ i got a lot of play time with these !!!
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:04 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by The Overclocker
ok go check out what i asked Harley ( http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hassis-41.html )

youre way is the best ! if i extend the front of the buggy i will have 27mm + just buy a other 105mm shaft to replace the 78mm original front shaft .... more clearance = 4'' motor !! = 103mm total !

thats the best way hands down !
If you have some spare room I'd suggest the same 1518 I'm running on 8S, it's 1800kv and makes plenty of power.

You could also go with an even longer motor like a Neu 1524 1.5d, at 1700kv and 4" long it's a massive unit. The power could end up being a real problem though if you punch it too hard from too slow a speed. I consider going beyond the 1518 in anything that weighs less than 10lbs moving backwards just for bling factor. Reason being is that if the 1518 will spin up to it's max rpm geared with the largest pinion the mount will allow, and the 1524 doesn't spin faster, you haven't gained any actual speed and you're just cutting down the run time from the extra weight you've added to the buggy.
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
If you have some spare room I'd suggest the same 1518 I'm running on 8S, it's 1800kv and makes plenty of power.

You could also go with an even longer motor like a Neu 1524 1.5d, at 1700kv and 4" long it's a massive unit. The power could end up being a real problem though if you punch it too hard from too slow a speed. I consider going beyond the 1518 in anything that weighs less than 10lbs moving backwards just for bling factor. Reason being is that if the 1518 will spin up to it's max rpm geared with the largest pinion the mount will allow, and the 1524 doesn't spin faster, you haven't gained any actual speed and you're just cutting down the run time from the extra weight you've added to the buggy.
so power to weight ratio the 1518 is better ??
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by The Overclocker
so power to weight ratio the 1518 is better ??
Well, it's a loaded question The 1524 will put down more watts for sure. Far more than the 1518 will.

But you cross a point of diminishing returns. If 2500 watts will propel your buggy well beyond the limits of it's drive train, down force, and available tires, does having a motor capable of 4000 watts produce higher performance than a motor ONLY capable of producing 3000 watts? Either one will break your stuff, but one is 1/3rd heavier and uses your fuel 20% faster.

Make sense?

I'm not saying don't do it, I just stated my point of view about not really netting a gain, and that's only opinion If I listened to opinion I'd be running around on Nimh because lipo's aren't safe
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:00 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
Well, it's a loaded question The 1524 will put down more watts for sure. Far more than the 1518 will.

But you cross a point of diminishing returns. If 2500 watts will propel your buggy well beyond the limits of it's drive train, down force, and available tires, does having a motor capable of 4000 watts produce higher performance than a motor ONLY capable of producing 3000 watts? Either one will break your stuff, but one is 1/3rd heavier and uses your fuel 20% faster.

Make sense?

I'm not saying don't do it, I just stated my point of view about not really netting a gain, and that's only opinion If I listened to opinion I'd be running around on Nimh because lipo's aren't safe
ok i totally understand youre point of view , but lets say im already at a rolling start lets say 20-30 mph , then slam the gaz nothing is going to brake !!

and with the data log i can program everything right ? lets say im at the drag strip , the light turns green , under pressure i cant adjust the trottle with my finger as good as if i take a lonng time building a crazy data log so that the power is gradualy given to the wheels , no wheel spin , maximum lunch force ??

lets me know what you think ? im basicaly the type of guy that if there is place for a 10000w system ... its going in there !!

just like the sound system of my Rabbit ... no more space for a other amp ? i made a place !! lollll
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:25 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by The Overclocker
ok i totally understand youre point of view , but lets say im already at a rolling start lets say 20-30 mph , then slam the gaz nothing is going to brake !!

and with the data log i can program everything right ? lets say im at the drag strip , the light turns green , under pressure i cant adjust the trottle with my finger as good as if i take a lonng time building a crazy data log so that the power is gradualy given to the wheels , no wheel spin , maximum lunch force ??

lets me know what you think ? im basicaly the type of guy that if there is place for a 10000w system ... its going in there !!

just like the sound system of my Rabbit ... no more space for a other amp ? i made a place !! lollll
Everything's adjustable on the XL, you can dial the 1524 back to being a tamed animal Not a big deal at all, with the data logging you can monitor how many amps the motor pulls from your batteries and if your exceeding the C rating you can back it down some. You can tune the punch control to give you smooth clean launches and keep from breaking traction. There isn't a "rev limiter" yet, but we're prying hard on Castle for it.

Run the 1524, see how it plays with everything else you can all ways swap in a different motor if you find you just can't keep axles, gears, tires, differentials, a-arms, and screws from exiting at high velocity

Didn't want to discourage any creative thinking, only putting my .02 out there

P.s. I run 4 FiCar Audio IB18's in my living room wall in an infinite baffle I built. On 600 watts I can push 135db from 5hz up past 120hz ruler flat and their rated for 1800 watts total, I just don't have the reinforced glass to run that in the house...
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
Everything's adjustable on the XL, you can dial the 1524 back to being a tamed animal Not a big deal at all, with the data logging you can monitor how many amps the motor pulls from your batteries and if your exceeding the C rating you can back it down some. You can tune the punch control to give you smooth clean launches and keep from breaking traction. There isn't a "rev limiter" yet, but we're prying hard on Castle for it.

Run the 1524, see how it plays with everything else you can all ways swap in a different motor if you find you just can't keep axles, gears, tires, differentials, a-arms, and screws from exiting at high velocity

Didn't want to discourage any creative thinking, only putting my .02 out there

P.s. I run 4 FiCar Audio IB18's in my living room wall in an infinite baffle I built. On 600 watts I can push 135db from 5hz up past 120hz ruler flat and their rated for 1800 watts total, I just don't have the reinforced glass to run that in the house...
nice ! damn looks like the XL does it all !?!? thats preaty sick !! looks like imma need you're help BIG TIME for programming all that lolll

but all this lets me think ... if Harley Agrees on doing a longer chassis then im slapping a 1524 or even stronger 1527 ... loll but if he says no ... back to the small 1515 ...

pm you my cars sound system
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