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I just got SC10 brushless to run stock class and need rear grip! >

I just got SC10 brushless to run stock class and need rear grip!

I just got SC10 brushless to run stock class and need rear grip!

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Old 01-26-2011, 03:42 AM
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Default I just got SC10 brushless to run stock class and need rear grip!

I have bought a pair of Pro-Line Bow Fighters(soft), but the rear grip isn't much better. My local track is semi-hard packed clay but it stays wet alot and I need any ideas on getting a little more grip accellerating out of tight corners. I have installed the RPM front bumper/brace/skid plate and heavy duty ball cups. I also bought a Pro-Line desert rat 2.0 body which is lighter than the stock Rockstar body will this help or hurt handling? Any info/help getting more grip or other adjustments that are helpful for getting better lap times. THANKS!
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by savannahmick View Post
I have bought a pair of Pro-Line Bow Fighters(soft), but the rear grip isn't much better. My local track is semi-hard packed clay but it stays wet alot and I need any ideas on getting a little more grip accellerating out of tight corners. I have installed the RPM front bumper/brace/skid plate and heavy duty ball cups. I also bought a Pro-Line desert rat 2.0 body which is lighter than the stock Rockstar body will this help or hurt handling? Any info/help getting more grip or other adjustments that are helpful for getting better lap times. THANKS!
I KNOW YOU JUST BOUGHT THE TIRES...... PUT THEM ASIDE.... I HAD NO LUCK WITH THEM IN THE REAR BUT WORK GREAT IN THE FRONT. GET M4 HOLESHOTS OR ANY SMALL PIN SUPER SOFT TIRE. LOOSEN YOUR SLIPPER AND GEAR TALL. KEEP THE MOTOR UNDER 150* GOOD LUCK!

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Old 01-26-2011, 07:24 AM
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I KNOW YOU JUST BOUGHT THE TIRES...... PUT THEM ASIDE.... I NAD NO LUCK WITH THEM IN THE REAR BUT WORK GREAT IN THE FRONT. GET M4 HOLESHOTS OR ANY SMALL PIN SUPER SOFT TIRE. LOOSEN YOUR SLIPPER AND GEAR TALL. GOOD LUCK!
+1 get the right tires before you try setting up the rest of the car.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:10 AM
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Remove the anti-squat shim so it transfers weight to the rear end better.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:36 AM
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Do the rtr trucks come with the adjustable rear toe/anti squat components? I thought it would be like the b4.1 rtr? It has just a single premolded block what appears to be a 2* antisquat and roughly 3* of toe in. Just curious there so he may not have that option as of yet.

For tires i would see what most others are running on your track and give those a shot.

Weight distribution is pretty important. Try moving your battery around and see what it does. A lot of guys run battery forward and like 3 oz of weight just in front of the rear shock tower in the battery tray (under the foam all the way to rear). I have my batt placed 20mm from the front but am using 1/2-3/4 of weight in the front, and then about an oz. in the rear of battery tray. I think it comes out the roughly the same thing. Also Im running orion 2s 5000 which are a bit on the heavy side for a lipo.

Not sure if the rtr sc10 ESC also has some kind of "motor start speed" setting but if it does, id set that to 1 (lowest) and try to set for expo vs linear, It comes out a little more controllable on the trigger. If you have that reedy 3300kv I know it likes to rev. Also like stated, gearing and clutch settings can be a big deal.

There are other things to factor in such as suspension setup and springs and whatnot, but i hope this sheds some light.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:52 AM
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Under the rear foam battery pad place 2 ounces of lead weight. The weights are sold at the hobby shop, in 1/4 oz. blocks that have sticky tape on the bottom. Also place 1/2 oz. behind the receiver. Be sure to clean the areas with alcohol before sticking the weights to it. The track I race at is clay, and for tires, we use Panther Switches in clay compound, J Concepts Barcodes in gold compound, or Pro-Line Suburbs in MC clay compound. Also the Associated web site has factory team driver set-ups for the SC10 at different tracks. A popular set-up is the one by Chad Due on a clay track. Also get feedback at the track by the guys that are winning the SC A-mains. Good luck!
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:06 AM
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Here is my setup. I run on a similar track to yours and was struggling to get rear grip. I was able to run 2-3 more laps with this setup over the stock Brushless setup.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...YWVjYzlj&hl=en

Try one change at a time so you can see what works for you. I'd work in this order:
Get the right tires - Ask the guys at the track you're running at what the hot tire is.
Move the battery back
Add weight
Move shocks around
Ball diff
Add +1 degree hubs
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:00 AM
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Check out a set of M3 calibers. I run the same surface as you and this is my tire of choice.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:03 AM
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you mentioned you are running the stock class? Most tracks around me require RTR for stock class, in which case I recommend the XXX-SCT tires. That's what I used when I was running stock.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:06 AM
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I have a set I'll sell you. They only have a few runs on them.

Originally Posted by Tyler350 View Post
Check out a set of M3 calibers. I run the same surface as you and this is my tire of choice.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:49 PM
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Default Hey guys , Thanks for all the info!

I'll try some of these tips and setups this weekend. There is a big race in Henry County Georgia and I think I'll go because my next club race here in Savannah Georgia is Feb. 19. I was basically looking for a few things to start off getting the truck hooked up and now I have plenty of things to try. I only bought the Bow Fighters because thats the only set that was left and I figured they would be better than stock so I guess I'll order my next set. Do most of you agree that raising ride height and moving battery foward along with a set of better tires will be a good start? Yes the RTR have the antisquat adjustments and toe in. Thanks Again!
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by savannahmick View Post
Do most of you agree that raising ride height and moving battery foward along with a set of better tires will be a good start?
NO, Keep it bones level in the back and arms level in the front.
NO, Move the battery back to get more weight over the rear wheels.
YES, Just about any tire is better than the stocks.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
NO, Keep it bones level in the back and arms level in the front.
NO, Move the battery back to get more weight over the rear wheels.
YES, Just about any tire is better than the stocks.
All in all this is a basic pretty good start. My kit came with 2x stock tires and 2x subcultures. The stock tires are really hard and dont seem like they would grip on anything haha. I could see running them in the street due to the fact that they probly wont wear like race tires.

By the way ill be at Henry county also this weekend, its my first time down there so hopefully my setup stays good to me I know there are a bunch of guys that would be more than willing to share setup tips. Ill be the guy with a Pink/Silver Jconcepts raptor svt body sitting on my SC10. My pit area is going to be my car so ill probly be hanging out near the track haha.

I have no idea what tires are going to work well down there so i ordered a few sets, Double Dees, Enduros, and a pair of subcultures to finish that set. Also the fact it is outdoor can change your tire choice overnight.

Also just a side note, i dont think there will be a ton of practice time as heats are starting at 9 am sharp, unless they open for practice friday afternoon, Which is weather dependant at this time.
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:02 PM
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I just bought an SC10 Pro-Comp RTR last month and raced it once, and will be at the GCS too. I found that removing the black grease from the diff and adding 60wt shock fluid, plus running 1.5 degree of neg camber all around helped out alot. Loosening the slipper helps too. I'm still learning too..
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:16 PM
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Sounds like you are on a rite track. Have you run Henry county yet? Looks like a sweet track and i cant wait

Ive used shock oil in a b4 rtr gear diff with good results, i think i ended up using some 35 wt losi i had lying around. Added some rear traction without over-doing it.

Im running similar camber to you, 1* up front 1 1/4 in the rear. But ive been running this setup indoor, not sure how much it is going to change for outside yet. Probly going to end up tweaking it just a tad.

The slipper is a good point, esp if you have that reedy 3300, it likes to rev
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