Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Imo re taping parts to use metric screw's doesn't make much sense. Also i Personally Feel SAE is more robust in most if not all circumstances.
We just dont, Plain and simple. We can feel it there and Don't like it. Is that really a problem to you that we Prefer Sensored. ?
Im not always on throttle ,so far the couple track I've been on with this truck have a couple 180's,also if u Tq and u have the delay at the start you sometimes won't get that hole shot which is.valuable
Exactly. I personally can't run nonsensored,it bugs the s..t out of me
Exactly. I personally can't run nonsensored,it bugs the s..t out of me
A Big X2.


I think all the sensored/non sensored talk yesterday was directed towards JStalls comments about only rich people run sensored. Myself and quite a few other members thought it would be fun to poke fun at his retarded comments. I prefered sensored, but with the Losi it's a pig with the current motors. Smooth yes, but nothing like the larger rotor 540's with the NON ROAR legal stator lamination's.
Everyone jumped on the 4 pole wagon, it's a marketing thing. And it's working very well. You can get the same speed and torque just by changing the stator lamination's, not just by increasing the number of poles (which increases or decreased efficiency). ROAR legal is 0.35mm Castle uses 0.20mm along with a 17mm+ rotor. I've explained this a few times now lol.
ROAR making the 4 pole motors legal will make the current 550's obsolete. No one will buy them anymore knowing you can get a more powerful motor which is smaller, lighter and more efficient.
Everyone jumped on the 4 pole wagon, it's a marketing thing. And it's working very well. You can get the same speed and torque just by changing the stator lamination's, not just by increasing the number of poles (which increases or decreased efficiency). ROAR legal is 0.35mm Castle uses 0.20mm along with a 17mm+ rotor. I've explained this a few times now lol.
ROAR making the 4 pole motors legal will make the current 550's obsolete. No one will buy them anymore knowing you can get a more powerful motor which is smaller, lighter and more efficient.
Tech Regular
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I think all the sensored/non sensored talk yesterday was directed towards JStalls comments about only rich people run sensored. Myself and quite a few other members thought it would be fun to poke fun at his retarded comments. I prefered sensored, but with the Losi it's a pig with the current motors. Smooth yes, but nothing like the larger rotor 540's with the NON ROAR legal stator lamination's.
Everyone jumped on the 4 pole wagon, it's a marketing thing. And it's working very well. You can get the same speed and torque just by changing the stator lamination's, not just by increasing the number of poles (which increases or decreased efficiency). ROAR legal is 0.35mm Castle uses 0.20mm along with a 17mm+ rotor. I've explained this a few times now lol.
ROAR making the 4 pole motors legal will make the current 550's obsolete. No one will buy them anymore knowing you can get a more powerful motor which is smaller, lighter and more efficient.
Everyone jumped on the 4 pole wagon, it's a marketing thing. And it's working very well. You can get the same speed and torque just by changing the stator lamination's, not just by increasing the number of poles (which increases or decreased efficiency). ROAR legal is 0.35mm Castle uses 0.20mm along with a 17mm+ rotor. I've explained this a few times now lol.
ROAR making the 4 pole motors legal will make the current 550's obsolete. No one will buy them anymore knowing you can get a more powerful motor which is smaller, lighter and more efficient.

On a more serious note I wished I had 4 poles sometimes.


Tech Regular
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so im a little confused about my setup i have. when i bought my truck from a buddy used the box that the motor and esc came in say its a novak 4.5 well last week i had the motor off for the first time and looked at the underside of it and there is a sticker on it that says 5.5 which should i believe? the picture of the motor and esc on the box isint even the same kind of novak motor in my truck, and i dont know if the guy put a 5.5 sticker on the motor. when i bought it he said there was a 4.5 in the truck. idk if the guy was a dumbass or what but how can i tell between the 4.5 and 5.5?

I have had some chitty bodies the last two years from every company. The most consistent has been the SC10 stock body. I learned after about the 3rd one that don't get attached to SC bodies. Shoe goo has saved the last two I owned, however it does add weight. Wraps also help but also add dead weight.


I thought that Steve said on the Roar complaint thread that 4 poles are legal? Is it only certain 4 poles and most of what we use don't fit the specs? Sorry bud as you have probably already gone over this...
Tech Master
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Salad, your photochops earlier were freakin HILARIOUS!!!


On another note, I just got home from our WXE program and 38 entries showed up. We even had a B main in 4x4SC.
For all those that think only the best hop ups and fancy tweaks to their truck can make them any good I have news. Mikey B showed up with his box stock Slash that took second at the Manufacturers race last weekend and put it on us. He was just toying with us in the A main. His 2wd Slash could have beat most of us...
I am not knocking hop ups and tweaks at all as I have a bunch. I just like to let the new players know that nothing will overcome a skilled driver. You can make this hobby work on a budget if your patient and practice.
I just prefer to have the cool stuff so the fast guys have something to admire as they go by...
For all those that think only the best hop ups and fancy tweaks to their truck can make them any good I have news. Mikey B showed up with his box stock Slash that took second at the Manufacturers race last weekend and put it on us. He was just toying with us in the A main. His 2wd Slash could have beat most of us...
I am not knocking hop ups and tweaks at all as I have a bunch. I just like to let the new players know that nothing will overcome a skilled driver. You can make this hobby work on a budget if your patient and practice.



I have zero problem with ROARs decision, I think it's one of their smarter moves over the last few years. I just wonder why it was so hard to get them to approve the 550's and Tekin releases a 4 Pole with a 18.5mm rotor and now they are pushing for a rule change mid season to get the motor out on the market. Like I said I'm all for the addition, but something seems fishy.

Thanks everyone! Glad you guys all thought it was a good idea also. Hopefully some more people will as well. I also know there's a lot of people who lurk but never post, so hopefully some of the silent majority will also send in some emails! If it happens, I sincerely think it's because of all of us trying to help make a difference and showing that the market for these is out there! For those of you who haven't sent an email out to Robinson Racing, we'd love to have you send one. I think for those most part, our thread is one of if not THE best thread here on RCTech that's dedicated to one vehicle. I know there's a few that have been good, but this one really is great with only a few hiccups. Many members have had great ideas and thought outside the box to keep these cars on the road or to improve on an already good design. People like Chris who've made items that have kept MANY MANY MANY people on the track. Saladfork who started this thread and kept it updated to keep everyone in the know and all the info in one place, not to mention he's sent parts to people free of cost just to keep them going. I'm not sure who came up with the Ofna gear fix or the SC10 diff pins, but those are great examples of how useful this thread has been as well. Keep it up guys! And even JStalls who must have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed yesterday, has actually been helpful to many here. Thank you guys for your input and positive influence to those of us with SCTE's. There's really too many people who've been great with advice and suggestions here to name everyone, but those I've listed above, as well as Ridley, Eight-E, SC Rage and Cult have really been very helpful, so an extra thank you. Lastly, it's rare that we get the kind of help from the factory that we get here on our thread, so an extra thank you to Ryan and Casper. Let's keep this thread positive and keep up the good work guys!
Salad, your photochops earlier were freakin HILARIOUS!!!
Thanks for the laughs.
Salad, your photochops earlier were freakin HILARIOUS!!!

Also sent them an email.

Tech Master
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Tech Master
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Thanks man! Good to hear! They're probably going to be wondering why all of a sudden they're getting a ton of emails asking for the Diff gears for the SCTE/Ten-T/810 platform

I think I'm gonna repost my original post into the Ten-T and 810 threads as well!
Tech Master
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Yeah if I remember correctly, they were REALLY close if not perfect. I think that I had to change mine because of how the body clips hit the hood scoop and wouldn't let me push them all the way through.
Tech Regular
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Lots of talk about cracked bodywork....
The stock sc10 body is great in that it doesn't have too many sharp corners and can take some abuse. I've run one on my 2wd for 2 years of bashing.
But the 4x4 is the same deal as the losi, no flex on the body mounts, and the extra weight and traction rolls tear it up.
My fix..... shoe goo with fiberglass mat. The drywall mesh tape sucks and tears easily. The fiberglass is much stronger. If you can get kevlar, try that even.
If you don't have a fiberglass source, you can get a bondo brand repair kit at Autozone that includes a good size fiberglass mat in it. Do NOT use the fiberglass epoxy, it is too rigid and won't stay bonded to the lexan.
The stock sc10 body is great in that it doesn't have too many sharp corners and can take some abuse. I've run one on my 2wd for 2 years of bashing.
But the 4x4 is the same deal as the losi, no flex on the body mounts, and the extra weight and traction rolls tear it up.
My fix..... shoe goo with fiberglass mat. The drywall mesh tape sucks and tears easily. The fiberglass is much stronger. If you can get kevlar, try that even.
If you don't have a fiberglass source, you can get a bondo brand repair kit at Autozone that includes a good size fiberglass mat in it. Do NOT use the fiberglass epoxy, it is too rigid and won't stay bonded to the lexan.