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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-04-2011, 05:27 PM
  #13606  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
Longer wire = more resistance = less performance
Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
I decided against it, Castle says it is fine to cut the CM36 and Monster motors but not anything else. Read that it has something to do with the wind of the motor being factored into the length of the wire.

Not sure how true it is but it ain't broke so no need to mess with it.

ok chime in folks....need to know if this is true... i didnt shorten mine either
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:27 PM
  #13607  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543 View Post
Lol! That's incorrect! Shorter wires are always better.
Where did I ever say that shorter wires were not better. Hey I got an Idea, Pick up the manual that comes with the Castle setup and read it for yourself where it says to not cut the wires.

If I wanted to cut the wires I could have but I decided not too for my own reasons.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:27 PM
  #13608  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543 View Post
Lol! That's incorrect! Shorter wires are always better.

Lol!You're statement is incorrect! You cannot cut just any Castle motor wires as the wires ARE factored in to the motor wind on some models.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:30 PM
  #13609  
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mine are as short as could be, just long enough to have room to remove the motor and not disconect from esc( direct soldered to esc)

been working just fine.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:32 PM
  #13610  
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Originally Posted by 05PSD View Post
Lol!You're statement is incorrect! You cannot cut just any Castle motor wires as the wires ARE factored in to the motor wind on some models.
Thank you, This is why I did not cut mine. If they can be cut on the 1410 then great I may make them shorter but for now I am leaving them as is.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:34 PM
  #13611  
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Originally Posted by 05PSD View Post
Lol!You're statement is incorrect! You cannot cut just any Castle motor wires as the wires ARE factored in to the motor wind on some models.
Negative, that is not the case at all. My 1410 wires are as short as possible with my rx8 esc.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
Make sure the cross pins are all the way seated against each other before you put the cover on .
Yea i made sure of that. I opened it up a cpl times and reassembled and each time it felt the same. Ive seen some mention here about the diff cup having the inserts move or something. Didnt know they werent 1 piece on each half of the cup. Maybe ill order some new cups. Cant see anything else as the problem myself
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:37 PM
  #13613  
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The scte in stock form with a trakpower 5600 2s lipo and with the battery all the way forward the truck is around 70g to 90g lighter on the battery side front wheel. This is with a rx8 on the esc mount and ballistic 5.5 installed 17t pinion. That's why I was saying cutting the battery tray doesn't make sence to me. So theoretically un modded the truck should turn a little better to the left than the right, but the only way to tell is to scale your own truck. It doesn't need to be perfect obviously but the closer the better IMO. You can only get so accurate on the scales because the weight changes depending on the scale positions, spring preload on each shock must be even ect...I checked 4 times and the battery side front is always lighter. I might need a heavier battery, others may not, to many variables from truck to truck. I do what I can to my rigs just to make sure I'm as fast as possible.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:43 PM
  #13614  
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I have read something like that before on the manual for the 1/18 size motors.

I wouldn't have done it if I hadn't seen other folks doing it and getting away with it no problems so I went for it. I think I remember it saying something about not being able to do it to them 1/18 size motors because they were a differnt type of motor wire on the motor side of the connectors. I belive you could shorten the esc side of the wires tho. been a while since I race them 1/18 scale cars, so can't remember all the details.
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:43 PM
  #13615  
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ok, from the Castle driver's ed guide:
"If you choose to direct solder or to shorten the motor wires, you may do so on the Castle Creations CM36 and Monster motors only. D O N O T C U T any part of the wire length from any other motor, regardless of brand or type. In most cases, only the last 1/4 inch or so of most motor wires is able to be soldered . If they are clipped shorter you may not be able to solder the remaining portion of the wire and the motor will not run properly, if at all. If the motor is supplied with connectors you do not want to use, simply unsolder the original motor
connectors from the wires - do not cut them off."

i do also remember reading somewhere about motor length having an importance on the 1410....going to get that manual
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Old 07-04-2011, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 05PSD View Post
Lol!You're statement is incorrect! You cannot cut just any Castle motor wires as the wires ARE factored in to the motor wind on some models.
Stop! Check yourself before you wreak yourself lol! Tekin runs wireless! I'm sure it's because the included sidewinder sct esc is a meltdown waiting to happen on the scte.
The motor is fine with shorter wires bro, I've done it, anyone with a tekin rx8 would. Those are way to long IMO.
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:09 PM
  #13617  
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Originally Posted by godofcable View Post
ok chime in folks....need to know if this is true... i didnt shorten mine either
Shortened mine with no problems what so ever i cant say if i picked up a performance advantage but was alot of weight and it looks cleaner as well
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-imag0254.jpg   Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-imag0253.jpg  
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:09 PM
  #13618  
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Originally Posted by fullpull View Post
@ Chance...thats the way I'm setting up as well....cause thats what I have was even thinking of going 5,7,3. For now it'll be 5,5,3 and go from there. I just want to get this thing running. Did the front last night w/chripins, when I took out the stockers they showed wear from me and my son just pushing it around from right outa the box...LAMO and this was the updated pins..FAIL. Thanks Chris for doing what you do If you haven't picked these up you might want to... Gonna do a lill drimel work to some plastic shaving some grams off here and there Should be up and running for thursday race.

@ Doug...so what screw are you talking about? I've read about this, some are useing red locker or CA glue. Just not sure if its the bottom screw or the top screw on the servo saver?? don't wanna do the wrong one. Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
take the steering assembly out,at the bottom you will see a blue nut that compress the spring.unscrew it take blue loctite and put it on.then screw it so 2 threads show.
Easier way to do it is take the rx box off and grab that blue nut with some pliers, then turn the steering by hand to tighten it up. Basically swinging the steering instead of swinging the pliers. Then drop some locktite on the threads and then back it back down to where you want it. That's how I did mine anyway,
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:13 PM
  #13619  
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Originally Posted by mxr300ex View Post
I have three sets of the ofna gears. Im not going to do anything to my scte gears unless they go bad. When I do put in the ofna gears is there anything else I need to put in like the Chris kit or are the ofna pins good enough?
You have to use the ofna pins when using the ofna spider gears. Along with KYO96775 - Kyosho bevel gear washer/shims or any 4x10x.15 washers. You'll need to put 2 washers behind each spider gear to mesh correctly. You will also have to cut down the ofna pins a little to fit into the diff cup.

This is an option since Losi gears won't be available until who knows when.
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:20 PM
  #13620  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543 View Post
Stop! Check yourself before you wreak yourself lol! Tekin runs wireless! I'm sure it's because the included sidewinder sct esc is a meltdown waiting to happen on the scte.
The motor is fine with shorter wires bro, I've done it, anyone with a tekin rx8 would. Those are way to long IMO.
I stand corrected. I thought the Castle motors were replicas of the Neu motors in which you cannot shorten the wires.
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