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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-29-2011, 10:12 PM
  #13231  
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Originally Posted by RedDevil13 View Post
Ok, I just got my truck ready. I bought a Castle SCT sidewinder system for it. I hooked it all up, tested it for maybe 5 min. to set my steering trim, and poof up in smoke. I wasnt even doing full throttle runs. So, now my question is what budget minded ESC and motor should I get for this. I new going in that the SCT sidewinder was pushing it for this truck, but I was trying to save some coin. Now I am going to send it in for repair or whatever and then I am gonna sell it, or keep it for a mod 2wd or something. But I need to know what I can put in this truck for like $200-250 total. Im obviously not gonna get away with the $100 sidewinder price tag.

Any help?
Get the mmpro and 3800 kv motor (4pole). You'll be very happy with that.
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE View Post
Track size doesn't really matter per se. 10 minutes is 10 minutes whether it's a 60 second lap track or 20 second lap track. Biggest difference would be really long straights and lots of full throttle segments. Of course, this is all just my opinion.
i think in a way you just proved that a big track makes a difference. If you look at that track, the back straight is HUGE. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYVZvjG7ifU) Then, there is a big triple which you have to gun it to clear, a double double which requires a lot of throttle. Plus, with the bigger 1/8 scale jumps, you are in the air more, and therefore require more throttle and brake usage to keep you level.

When I race at that track, I just make 10 minutes with a 5000mah, but im pulling 40 second laps, not 32 like 8ight-E. On my home track, which is much smaller (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ukJxuU_kNE) I make 15-20 minutes in practice sessions, over 12 minutes hard out racing.
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:14 PM
  #13233  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
i really hope someone finds a fix soon, or if someone has hopefully they will post because its going to get old rebuilding these diffs more often then my 1/8th scale lol
yea no kidding. I havent been on this thread in a month or two and im wondering if this problem has already come and gone on this forum
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:36 PM
  #13234  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
i really hope someone finds a fix soon, or if someone has hopefully they will post because its going to get old rebuilding these diffs more often then my 1/8th scale lol
I use white grease on the land (groove) cut into the outdrive. I also use it on the oring. Not a lot but enough to fill the land and lube the oring. I haven't had any issues with mine. Maybe it will help. Good luck.

On a rather funny note. I started second and won tonight with all our fast guys taking the night off. Had a full main though. The funny part is my parts haven't come in yet so I have now run 4 quals and 2 mains with a cut body clip in the front drive cup and electrical tape holding it in. Being worried about this has made me drive smoother and cautious and run my best races to date. Next week i'll have it fixed and probably drive over my head again. lol
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:48 PM
  #13235  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE View Post
Maybe try a glitch buster.

Just seems like a lot of mah's burned in 10 minutes. I can get damn near 20 minutes on the track with my 5200 Turnigy's. Granted it's not in a SCTE (because I just got one and haven't set it up yet), but that's in my SCRT10 but it weighs over 6lbs too.
Originally Posted by CHIZZLE View Post
Track size doesn't really matter per se. 10 minutes is 10 minutes whether it's a 60 second lap track or 20 second lap track. Biggest difference would be really long straights and lots of full throttle segments. Of course, this is all just my opinion.
Size makes a huge difference, larger track more time at max power.. and bigger jumps.. it's really common sense. If you run a battery at 1/2 the amount of draw it will last 2x as long if you push it harder it won't :P

Originally Posted by godofcable View Post
i think in a way you just proved that a big track makes a difference. If you look at that track, the back straight is HUGE. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYVZvjG7ifU) Then, there is a big triple which you have to gun it to clear, a double double which requires a lot of throttle. Plus, with the bigger 1/8 scale jumps, you are in the air more, and therefore require more throttle and brake usage to keep you level.

When I race at that track, I just make 10 minutes with a 5000mah, but im pulling 40 second laps, not 32 like 8ight-E. On my home track, which is much smaller (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ukJxuU_kNE) I make 15-20 minutes in practice sessions, over 12 minutes hard out racing.
Thanks but I wish I could have pulled that fast lap time or close to it every time around.. LOL I would have beat Fischer ;P He was 33-34 seconds with a fast lap 32.830, a machine. I had a four laps push btw 39-43 seconds that took it's tole on my total because I didn't stay clean. Hense why he is a pro and I am not :P LOL It was a blast though..
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:59 PM
  #13236  
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Originally Posted by hgrove99 View Post
Is anyone having problems with the diffs leaking oil? it looks as if its coming from the outdrives. Ive taken the diffs apart and re greased where the groove is but still is leaking...any tips? tia
I had this problem BAD!! I bought new diff rebuild kits Lightned out drives and Buy moble 1 grease.... Problem solved no issues anymore
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:08 PM
  #13237  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Bartlett View Post
Im really anxious to hear more about the BCE chassis! I am curious about one thing.. if its true that with the BCE you eliminate the plastic riser under the center diff, I understand this helps to lower the center of gravity of the vehicle but I would think you are adding even one more angle to the front driveline. Trust me (please) im not slamming their design just curious if there is any problems noticed as of yet?
yes you do eliminate the center plastic piece from the stock one lowering the motor/center diff. You need to use half the size of the regular screws because you just got rid of 3/16 to 1/4 that the screws had to go through. (4 screws that bolt the center diff down)











Actually lowering the motor/center diff seemed better. Not only did the driveline is straight across, but it will no longer rub when the chassis flexes on the front chassis support or the receiver box. If you look closely to my center front diff outdrive you can see a slight wear or dent where the driveline pin would hit it before, then look at how far in now the pin is into the outdrive by lowering it. (would guess 2mm further in the out drive)

Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
yup, i was told lightened outdrives fixes it, i felt the difference in fit between stock and the lightened ones, they were tighter but mine still leak
so i thought. new outdrives, shims, pins, seals and gasket and yet they still leak more than a new york sewer
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:11 PM
  #13238  
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so i'm pretty convinced that the early ten-t diff stuff was WAY better than any of the SCTE stuff. i bought the truck used and immediately put chrispins in. the stock pins showed very minimal wear. almost none. the blocks showed no wear and the gears were perfect. now i don't know how much the truck was run by the last guy, but it was enough to wear the outdrives a decent amount. so today i tore into the center diff because it started leaking pretty bad from the front outdrive. so today the gears are still nice and sharp. the blocks still had zero wear (still put in my chris bushings), and of course the chrispins looked brand new. the outdrive shims looked pretty thin. i couldn't tell if that was from wear or if they came that thin. i promptly put the chrisshims in there. i also through in the HD outdrives. hopefully this thing won't leak anymore...
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:16 PM
  #13239  
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Originally Posted by Chase1472 View Post
I had this problem BAD!! I bought new diff rebuild kits Lightned out drives and Buy moble 1 grease.... Problem solved no issues anymore
i noticed when i first rebuilt mine they did not leak, great!!!. then last week they seemed to have piles of dirt with oil around Im guessing that once i start eating that sun gear shim like mine do all the time then there isn't a tight fit anymore. I just got (chris attebery aid kit) pins, shims and blocks so if his shims hold up i hope the leaking stops. I'll post back this weekend if i get the axles on time.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Chase1472 View Post
I had this problem BAD!! I bought new diff rebuild kits Lightned out drives and Buy moble 1 grease.... Problem solved no issues anymore
mobil 1 grease on the outdrive grooves?
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:14 AM
  #13241  
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I was wondering if this pinion will work with my SC4X 4.5 motor?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-16T

I keep on reading that I need a sleeve? Don't quite understand that.

Also with this set using a 16T pinion, will it cause overheating? I will be using a Tekin RX8. Not sure if there is a default setting?
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:33 AM
  #13242  
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
I was wondering if this pinion will work with my SC4X 4.5 motor?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-16T

I keep on reading that I need a sleeve? Don't quite understand that.

Also with this set using a 16T pinion, will it cause overheating? I will be using a Tekin RX8. Not sure if there is a default setting?
that pinion will work with that motor size wise. the SC4x has a 5mm shaft and 90% of the mod 1 pinions out there are 5mm (ofna sells some 3.17mm mod 1 pinions). the only reason you'd need a reducer is if you are using a motor that has a 3.17mm shaft like the castle 1410.

as far the 16T goes, just based on my own experience with a 4.5T ballistic, a
16T is too big and will cause heat issues. i wouldn't go higher than 14T and even that might be too much. i've never run the SC4x so i'm not positive.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:27 AM
  #13243  
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Originally Posted by hgrove99 View Post
yea no kidding. I havent been on this thread in a month or two and im wondering if this problem has already come and gone on this forum
I have only rebuilt my diffs once and they aren't leaking. Use synthetic grease on the gasket when you put it back on. Gears and pis are still good too. SC 10 shims seem to work aswell.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:38 AM
  #13244  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
yes you do eliminate the center plastic piece from the stock one lowering the motor/center diff. You need to use half the size of the regular screws because you just got rid of 3/16 to 1/4 that the screws had to go through. (4 screws that bolt the center diff down)



Actually lowering the motor/center diff seemed better. Not only did the driveline is straight across, but it will no longer rub when the chassis flexes on the front chassis support or the receiver box. If you look closely to my center front diff outdrive you can see a slight wear or dent where the driveline pin would hit it before, then look at how far in now the pin is into the outdrive by lowering it. (would guess 2mm further in the out drive)
Thanks for the info! Last question With the diff being a little lower is it still possible to run a larger 550 can motor?
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:41 AM
  #13245  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
that pinion will work with that motor size wise. the SC4x has a 5mm shaft and 90% of the mod 1 pinions out there are 5mm (ofna sells some 3.17mm mod 1 pinions). the only reason you'd need a reducer is if you are using a motor that has a 3.17mm shaft like the castle 1410.

as far the 16T goes, just based on my own experience with a 4.5T ballistic, a
16T is too big and will cause heat issues. i wouldn't go higher than 14T and even that might be too much. i've never run the SC4x so i'm not positive.
I run a 15 pinion, also use the 14 depending on the track size.....16 is to much.
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