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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-21-2011, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I would have 14-17 for those two motors.
Thanks
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SEF View Post
We're fortunate enough to live in the RC capital and get our butt's kicked on a daily basis by "Better Than You'll Ever Be" drivers Curse or blessing?

Half the 1/8 worlds A-main live in SoCal and race on a weekly basis.
How true is that! Sometimes when I look at the lineup in Mod Buggy or Expert 1/8th scale, I just shake my head and say "well, there's a class I'll never run!"

Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
So I had my first experience with the rear center driveshaft popping out of the center diff cup from a big hit (took me out of qualifying for the A cause I was having a good run, got stuck in the B and got mega hacked on the first lap and couldnt recover ) .

So I started looking around for a solution , well I have an RC8 that I have replaced a lot of the stock parts with FT parts and I tried the rear chassis brace and its a perfect fit ! It lines up with the unused nitro motor mount hole , no drilling or modding needed and it takes out most of the rear flex by the diff so the rear CVD cant pop out but still allows a little flex .

Ran some M3 Gladiators and they were hooking up ! Great when it was dry but like velcro after they watered ! (hardpacked clay/dirt with a little dust on top)
That's great info! Maybe Saladfork can add it to the first page as an alternative to the stock chassis brace to take out some flex.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chiatw73 View Post
how abt the 1415 on 20t pinion? good fun or too much risk on the gears? or just stick to 3s max?
wdn't do it. I was running the 2400 on 3s with a 20t pinion. It was fun for a bit but heat was an issue and I ate up my rear diff. Not that that combo caused the gears to go south...i'm sure it was from the stock pins being used when i got the truck on the first few runs.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
You"ll be 100% fine with that. I ran that combo(1415 20t 2s) up until last week when the 1410 went in.
key word "2s" on 20t. I've dropped down to a 16....tried 18 but i think 17 is the sweet spot on 3s. 18 still produced some heat.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LRPO View Post
key word "2s" on 20t. I've dropped down to a 16....tried 18 but i think 17 is the sweet spot on 3s. 18 still produced some heat.
I ONLY use 3s.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
Sure, I'm in as long as they're the new 3 hole cases! If you want, you can pick them up and I'll give you the cash on Saturday morning, assuming you're going to Critters this Saturday.
Strike this idea, I just picked one up from a local.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
Pics or it didn't happen.

Threw one in my wish list at A Main though.
Here ya go , I would imagine the FT alloy brace would fit the same way but I wanted too leave a little flex so I didnt use it .


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Old 06-21-2011, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LRPO View Post
key word "2s" on 20t. I've dropped down to a 16....tried 18 but i think 17 is the sweet spot on 3s. 18 still produced some heat.
Dont follow you...that combo on 2s geared 20t is fine. Ran it for months with zero heat issues.
Maybe I misunderstood what he asked.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:58 PM
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Nice, I'm digging the rc8 brace, I've got a couple around here too! Looks like a better setup than stock!
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
So I had my first experience with the rear center driveshaft popping out of the center diff cup from a big hit (took me out of qualifying for the A cause I was having a good run, got stuck in the B and got mega hacked on the first lap and couldnt recover ) .

So I started looking around for a solution , well I have an RC8 that I have replaced a lot of the stock parts with FT parts and I tried the rear chassis brace and its a perfect fit ! It lines up with the unused nitro motor mount hole , no drilling or modding needed and it takes out most of the rear flex by the diff so the rear CVD cant pop out but still allows a little flex .

Ran some M3 Gladiators and they were hooking up ! Great when it was dry but like velcro after they watered ! (hardpacked clay/dirt with a little dust on top)
I see it...
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
Dont follow you...that combo on 2s geared 20t is fine. Ran it for months with zero heat issues.
Maybe I misunderstood what he asked.
There is no air control with the 20t 1415. If you run a big track with alot of big jumps, i wouldn't recommend this combo. Not enough rpm to correct.
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:31 PM
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I use a Revo tie-rod as my chassis brace...

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Old 06-21-2011, 01:34 PM
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But Castle recommends using the 1415 with 3s. Does the 2S in this beast provide enough power?
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
Anyone know where I can get some of the tiny washers that go between the blocks and the diff gears?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lutch-Shim-Set

These work great and you can use the thicker ones to take some of the slop out as your diff wears.
are these the same, but cheaper?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...3x5mm-Shim-Set
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:38 PM
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Not sure what has changed in the last year that people think 2400kv on 2S is enough. Last year if someone asked to run a 2650kv MM in a 4wd SC on 2S everyone looked at them funny. That motor needs 3S to perform how it was designed. It will work on 2S but the 1410 is WAY better.
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