Originally Posted by wcrase101

I ran my second race with a lighten losi, first track of the series was good, this race was at my home track and the jumps I was hitting during my first initial testing I could hit no more I thought it would be ok, guess now I need to figure out a interesting way to get weight back into the rig and get her to fly like she used to.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543

You can't expect to lighten it a ton and not have a learning curve, give it a chance.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543

I agree, he said he didn't like how it jumped lighter so I said you need to keep running it to get used to it. Everyone is aware the carbon towers are better, thanks for your input. A lighter truck isn't for everyone. You could add some stick on weights, you can buy them for cheap at a hobby shop. My stock truck is nose heavy or the rear springs make it seem that way if I don't jump it correctly it's a nose diver! Witch reminds me, try the silver springs in the rear.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543

You can't expect to lighten it a ton and not have a learning curve, give it a chance.

Originally Posted by Ridley

Or to not have to change your suspension settup . Going with a lighter truck, means going with lighter shock oil to get the same feel on the track, if you drop a substantial amount of weight, going softer in springs will be a must as well. May also have to change diff fluids. It is nice though that the stock springs are way too soft for the trucks weight as it comes out of the box. Once it's quite a bit lighter, the spring rates are more optimal.

And you are 100% correct as it's not for everyone. If someone likes a slower reacting truck, leaving it heavy will be better. Lightening it considerably is better suited for advanced drivers who want and need faster response. That added quickness will get slower drivers in trouble and seem twitchy.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543

I find the stock springs to be to firm in the rear for tight indoor clay, rear sway bar seems to stiff also. IMO you guys do what you want, I don't have any problems tuning my buggies/trucks where I run. Help him not me! You guys keep repeating everything I say like what I said isn't good enough to begin with. Weird...

Originally Posted by Jstall7543

I find the stock springs to be to firm in the rear for tight indoor clay, rear sway bar seems to stiff also. IMO you guys do what you want, I don't have any problems tuning my buggies/trucks where I run. Help him not me! You guys keep repeating everything I say like what I said isn't good enough to begin with. Weird...

Originally Posted by Briguy

You will need at least 6000 unless you lighten up your truck . I like the heavy truck and happy with my run times and use my 6200 for mains . All the big races I been to the mains for SCT are 10 minutes at the most .

Originally Posted by GVizzle

I hate to say it but my SCTE with a MAX AMPs 2S 150C 6500 with a TEKIN RX8 and SCX 4.5 15 pinion 40 spur, motos for 18 minutes.

Originally Posted by Chase1472

I can make 14-15 min at race speed with novak 4.5 14mm rotor 5300mah TP on stock SCTE

Originally Posted by 8ight-e

Any word on HD diffs yet? MY center is REALLY loose again, even shimmed up.



The last two 'sunday' league race days.. my scte has been awesome, but my packs have dumped on me just before finishing the race! Two weeks ago I was second, yesterday I was in first and with just a lap or two left in both cases! On the bright side the truck just hooks up sick good, now I just need a battery that can give me juice for the entire race and with some kick near the end would be nice too..

Warnings.. for 10min mains.. mind you this is on a castle 1410 with all MIN settings and a 15t pinion. I'm 6.1lbs on the track

• Maxamps "100c" ya right, anyway, 2s 5250 can't take it, great power for 5-6, drops to fair, won't finish a full 10 minute main at least on any track I run at.
• My year old speedzone 50c 5400's are as good as the MA's great for 5-6 drops to fair and won't finish a main.
• My Integy 60c 6200's are the only thing I can finish a 10min main w/ but again loose power to hit the big jumps about 6 minutes in.

That 6min mark is deadly as you start missing large jumps that can cause real damage.. I broke my first parts yesterday (rear bumper) doing some endo's when I lost power. At that point I started taking it double single but you loose a lot of time.

I guess my next move is to pick up some of the CRC packs and see if they have the nads to make it. The local pro I race w/ uses them w/ success so I guess I'll give it a shot.

What a bad two days though.. I had the win locked w/ truggy thurs when my esc went into stage 1 (50% power) thermal, on the LAST LAP! LOL I made it about 2/3 around before getting passed by second place and just bearly beat 3rd place. The fan died on the esc, otherwise it wouldn't have even been an issue. Yesterady I had both of my 1/8 esc's (buggy and truggy) die, one if a blaze of glory (big flames) and the other just won't start right and parts fell off the circuit board upon inspection.. yay! In the truggy qualifiers.. I started w/ my nitro and the clutch blew, swapped to my e-truggy and the clutch bell (tekno) slipped off and was spinning, still managed to qualify for the A even though I had no real power, just stayed clean. Then plugged it in for the a-main and that is when she went up in a fire, nice. In the a-main of buggy I was bumped on our back doubles and pushed off the track into a pallet used to stand on, it tore my front shock tower off my diff (carbon held up to this beating, AMAZING!!).

Arggh.. lets just say it was one expensive & brutal... day, enough to make at least me consider a few weeks of racing off to recover from the frustrations. Can't do that though, pro-series next weekend.. LOL.

Originally Posted by Mr.juarez

dont really get why the anger? he was agreeing with you that lighter isnt for everyone and i did also agree. i had trouble driving mine today now that is so much more responsive.

Originally Posted by Mr.juarez

you are 1000% correct. i did all that lightweight stuff to mine and boom oversteer and hitting every corner in the pipes. before it was good to my driving style , but now its totally different and it takes time to re learn ir again. over steer, nose dives does 3 wheels motion on stock tires lol. took - camber out and toe is at 0 to bring the oversteering down a bit but its still reacts way too fast

Originally Posted by Ridley

Or to not have to change your suspension settup . Going with a lighter truck, means going with lighter shock oil to get the same feel on the track, if you drop a substantial amount of weight, going softer in springs will be a must as well. May also have to change diff fluids. It is nice though that the stock springs are way too soft for the trucks weight as it comes out of the box. Once it's quite a bit lighter, the spring rates are more optimal.

And you are 100% correct as it's not for everyone. If someone likes a slower reacting truck, leaving it heavy will be better. Lightening it considerably is better suited for advanced drivers who want and need faster response. That added quickness will get slower drivers in trouble and seem twitchy.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543

I agree, he said he didn't like how it jumped lighter so I said you need to keep running it to get used to it. Everyone is aware the carbon towers are better, thanks for your input. A lighter truck isn't for everyone. You could add some stick on weights, you can buy them for cheap at a hobby shop. My stock truck is nose heavy or the rear springs make it seem that way if I don't jump it correctly it's a nose diver! Witch reminds me, try the silver springs in the rear.