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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-17-2011, 09:26 AM
  #12031  
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Originally Posted by SC_RAGE View Post
Im really suprised at the trouble people are going through to shave weight off these trucks. For the effort, does the outcome really make it worth it. Or has anyone proven that it really performs better. Im not cutting my truck up until I see some results.
Every ounce = better handling iMO and easier on the motors, I'm at about 6.1 on the track racing w/ my 1410 motor. This is a really nice weight for the scte.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:27 AM
  #12032  
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Originally Posted by SCTRacerX View Post
I have a question for everyone who runs the MMP esc with a Castle BEC. So I decided after my BEC wire got damaged and had to be cut and re soldered that i would run the wire under the battery tray like the ESC wire. So I took it outside to test it and it kept cutting out? How is everyone running their wires?

Do you keep the ESC/ BEC wires separate or run them together?Please describe wires.
I also just installed my new Savox 1258tg Servo. Do I need to adjust the Castle BEC with the Castle link? How do I change external BEC's out put?
Think the Savox is drawing too much current and glitching the MMP out most likely.So i need more power to the reciever.
Also my ESC wire is about 7mm too short anyone have any idea how to get ESC closer to receiver box?

Sorry lot's of questions...Trying to get to practice tomorrow night but not looking good
I used to run my MMP and BEC wires underneath my radio tray. Still experienced a few brown out's which is why I sold my MMP. Now I use an RX8.

I believe you can change the BEC's output using the Castle Link software.

Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
i have same set up and its been a pita since day one. you need a glitch buster even then shyt still happens. im now running mmm with no ish. finally.
I've always wondered if the MMM is a better ESC over the MMP. I know the MMM is a sensorless ESC but if you're only running a sensorless motor, what's the point of buying an ESC that supports sensored, unless you want the flexibility to change setups in the future. I haven't heard of anyone experiencing the amount of issues with the MMP compared to the MMM.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:28 AM
  #12033  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
i thought about that, but wasnt sure and i had to drill another hole. i got the truggy 2.0 rear brace from losi just sitting here but then it will require drilling again, which there is nothing wrong but i rather use the empty hole thats almost by the motor
I used a Mugen mbx5t brace, I had to trim a little meat off where it goes into the diff case and drilled the hole on the bottom for the screw. Its beefy and it got rid of 95% of the inward flex.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:30 AM
  #12034  
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Originally Posted by SC_RAGE View Post
Im really suprised at the trouble people are going through to shave weight off these trucks. For the effort, does the outcome really make it worth it. Or has anyone proven that it really performs better. Im not cutting my truck up until I see some results.
well in all honesty i thought the same way. I said no way im hacking this shit up. Well the 90- 115 deggre (latley 90's) is right around the corner and im already starting to have issues with this little castle 3800kv. Not just me but some novak guys also as well. Since its hot here we tend to water the crap out of the track so we we run its not dried = about another pound of dirt. lighter longer run time, run cooler.

so basically when it rtr and full of mud at least its where the weight of a stock is at and not around 8+ pounds like this where the motor will struggle VVVV



all im doing it is for heat issues and cooler temps. i would of love to keep it stock
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:31 AM
  #12035  
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
Do i have to go out to the garage and get the flotek off my XXX-SCT and place it on my scte for you people?!?!
yes please
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:32 AM
  #12036  
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Originally Posted by omenwolf View Post
I used a Mugen mbx5t brace, I had to trim a little meat off where it goes into the diff case and drilled the hole on the bottom for the screw. Its beefy and it got rid of 95% of the inward flex.
oh wow thank you sir. ordering it as of right now lol
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:33 AM
  #12037  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
well in all honesty i thought the same way. I said no way im hacking this shit up. Well the 90- 115 deggre (latley 90's) is right around the corner and im already starting to have issues with this little castle 3800kv. Not just me but some novak guys also as well. Since its hot here we tend to water the crap out of the track so we we run its not dried = about another pound of dirt. lighter longer run time, run cooler.

so basically when it rtr and full of mud at least its where the weight of a stock is at and not around 8+ pounds like this where the motor will struggle VVVV



all im doing it is for heat issues and cooler temps. i would of love to keep it stock
I cant help but notice you arent running the supplied fan. It will help you with high ambient temps.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:37 AM
  #12038  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
Every ounce = better handling iMO and easier on the motors, I'm at about 6.1 on the track racing w/ my 1410 motor. This is a really nice weight for the scte.
I just dont like the idea of cutting the radio box. The battery tray dosent really bother me but if it can be bolted on and be lighter. Im all for it. Cutting out also removes rigidity. Oh im working on some upper braces for more strength. I cant believe how much flex this chassis has. I've popped out the rear driveline so many times it isn't funny.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:41 AM
  #12039  
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I have seen alot of guys running the T-Bone front bumper, I have had really good luck with my stock front one. I tboned a truggy that got sideways on the track and i thought it was a gonner but it was fine.
My rear bumper on the other hand is a weak pos if i look at it funny it breaks. Way too much hardware for a bumper, I wonder if the new ones coming out are just beefier or if losi changed the desighn?
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:46 AM
  #12040  
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
Do i have to go out to the garage and get the flotek off my XXX-SCT and place it on my scte for you people?!?!
Yes please... I would like to see the front... I am telling you mine sticks way over the front and i eyed it too before cutting the holes...
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:53 AM
  #12041  
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Originally Posted by omenwolf View Post
I have seen alot of guys running the T-Bone front bumper, I have had really good luck with my stock front one. I tboned a truggy that got sideways on the track and i thought it was a gonner but it was fine.
My rear bumper on the other hand is a weak pos if i look at it funny it breaks. Way too much hardware for a bumper, I wonder if the new ones coming out are just beefier or if losi changed the desighn?
Just beefier.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Revo_Racer View Post
Yes please... I would like to see the front... I am telling you mine sticks way over the front and i eyed it too before cutting the holes...
I have the t-bone front and t-bones new rear bumper and it fits perfect. Do not use the marked holes and I had to cut a small nick for the body clip in the back.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:07 AM
  #12043  
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Yep same here with the small nick to get the pin to fit...
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:12 AM
  #12044  
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
Those batteries are fine, some of the best you can get regardless of what the C rating is

Sounds to me, you have the servo binding. when it does that, and pulls too much amps, it will shut the esc off for a few seconds. Check your endpoints.

Some people have issues not running a glitchbuster even with the rx8 with some settups. To check it out before you buy a glitchbuster, just run a jumper from your 2s battery direct to the rx, and disconnect the red wire from the esc to rx plug. You can use an exacto blade to pry up the tiny latch that holds the wire in. If it works fine after you do that, you can then decide to buy a glitchbuster, or run it just like that if you have a RX and servo that can handle high voltage.
so after further investigation...
the rx8 errors as it has no radio signal when i turn the steering back and forth fast so i swapped out the savox 1258 for a new 1258 and it does the same thing even with the servo horn disconnected...
I put in a crappy traxxas servo that i had laying around and the problem isfixed 100%
its as though the savox draws too many amps for the bec but the rx8 is supposed to have a pretty strong bec so wtf... iguess ill ask some technical questions on the rx8 thread.
or i guess a glitchbuster may be needed
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:14 AM
  #12045  
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
or just the aluminum scte chassis brace! I have them both (front and rear) and they're are so, SO sweet. no chassis flex and that screw locks TIGHT in the aluminum.
Losi factory hop up
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext

STRC version
http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Hop-Up...duct_info.html
IMO the rear aluminum brace is too short. Way less flex with the longer brace.
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