Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)

Well it didnt fry or over heat, it just fell apart. After running it for about a year with it on my 2wd and 3months on the 4x4 I can GLADLY say I got my 90 bucks worth! However Im so glad I went with the rx8, I couldnt be happier and now I want the tekin 4pole when its out.
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)

been over many time before
i see you went with a RX8 which is a great move
but yeh not sure why castle just dont put a good esc with the 1410 motor ? its a no brainer i would think but then i am not in the marketing department so they must know best
some infeild testing would go a long way with a few of these products
had a run on a different track yesterday and i can honestly say i see no reason to make it any lighter? why spend $$$$$ on making it lighter when you can more then likely just buy a whole new roller for less then the upgraded light parts?
maybe i think different to others but having hundreds of dollars in spares is just a waste in my eyes and i will have another roller in the cupboard ready to use or steel parts off and it would be much cheaper to do it that way?


but yeh not sure why castle just dont put a good esc with the 1410 motor ? its a no brainer i would think but then i am not in the marketing department so they must know best



had a run on a different track yesterday and i can honestly say i see no reason to make it any lighter? why spend $$$$$ on making it lighter when you can more then likely just buy a whole new roller for less then the upgraded light parts?
maybe i think different to others but having hundreds of dollars in spares is just a waste in my eyes and i will have another roller in the cupboard ready to use or steel parts off and it would be much cheaper to do it that way?

had a run on a different track yesterday and i can honestly say i see no reason to make it any lighter? why spend $$$$$ on making it lighter when you can more then likely just buy a whole new roller for less then the upgraded light parts?
maybe i think different to others but having hundreds of dollars in spares is just a waste in my eyes and i will have another roller in the cupboard ready to use or steel parts off and it would be much cheaper to do it that way?


Besides, why not spend the money to make your truck as competitive as it can possibly be? 200$, 300$, really is pretty insignificant when you factor in the gas money, food money, entry fees, and all the other razzle dazzle you spend money on throughout the race season. Personally, I feel a bit better when I get wins to show for all that money I have "invested" in my racing program.



Tech Master
iTrader: (21)

I still have a stock weight chassis 
Titanium turnbuckles, titanium hingepins, titanium front 8-32 pivot bolts, carbon fiber hingepin holders, shock towers, ackerman, and center diff top brace. All 5-40 nuts have been changed to aluminum. The last of the 8-32 bolts are now associated aluminum. Shaved ring gears, bored axle shafts and 17mm aluminum hexes. Lightened HD outdrives. Ditched the radio tray and 2/3rds of the battery tray. 4 pole tenshock motor instead of the heavier 550 can motors. Ditched 3/4th of the rear bumper. Plastic screws in the stock body number plates instead of the stock steel ones. AKA tires and wheels which are the lightest out. DE wheels. 330 gram Lipo.
And probably a few things I am forgetting
AFter playing with some scales at the last race, I was 2.5 ounces lighter than the AE truck with 550 motor, and 1.5 ounces heavier than a slash 4x4 with a 550 motor, all with similar batteries.
With the new Losi chassis, I should be sitting at 5lbs 14.5 ounces, and will probably call it quits on the diet program

Titanium turnbuckles, titanium hingepins, titanium front 8-32 pivot bolts, carbon fiber hingepin holders, shock towers, ackerman, and center diff top brace. All 5-40 nuts have been changed to aluminum. The last of the 8-32 bolts are now associated aluminum. Shaved ring gears, bored axle shafts and 17mm aluminum hexes. Lightened HD outdrives. Ditched the radio tray and 2/3rds of the battery tray. 4 pole tenshock motor instead of the heavier 550 can motors. Ditched 3/4th of the rear bumper. Plastic screws in the stock body number plates instead of the stock steel ones. AKA tires and wheels which are the lightest out. DE wheels. 330 gram Lipo.
And probably a few things I am forgetting

AFter playing with some scales at the last race, I was 2.5 ounces lighter than the AE truck with 550 motor, and 1.5 ounces heavier than a slash 4x4 with a 550 motor, all with similar batteries.
With the new Losi chassis, I should be sitting at 5lbs 14.5 ounces, and will probably call it quits on the diet program

Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)

I had them on and noticed right away the pins fit in shorter with the carbon plates and knew that they had a chance of popping out if they take a hit just right.
Well, my suspicions were confirmed and as I was finishing the race that I already won by 3 laps I just had to try and lap my competition just one last time for fun and grabbed a handful of throttle without traction first and went front right arm into a pipe going really fast as I passed the loop.
Both suspension pins on the right arm side were broken and so was the right side of my SNR tower too.
So in the end the carbon plates work well but will not take hard hits.
Not true, I just open up my diffs and drop it in my ultrasonic cleanr and walk away.
After a couple of cycles they come out clean like they were brand new.
That IS easy but convenience does cost and that IS the hard part
Well, my suspicions were confirmed and as I was finishing the race that I already won by 3 laps I just had to try and lap my competition just one last time for fun and grabbed a handful of throttle without traction first and went front right arm into a pipe going really fast as I passed the loop.
Both suspension pins on the right arm side were broken and so was the right side of my SNR tower too.
So in the end the carbon plates work well but will not take hard hits.
Not true, I just open up my diffs and drop it in my ultrasonic cleanr and walk away.
After a couple of cycles they come out clean like they were brand new.
That IS easy but convenience does cost and that IS the hard part


I'm in a debate with myself over lightening this thing up, on one hand the heaviness is a handling benefit on the other I can't resist to drop another $200 into it for mods. Are you guys thinking lighter is better on this truck? I'm thinking of buying all the losi aluminum. Shock Towers, abcd plates, braces, ect... The question is would it be lighter after that?

Ok cool, thanks for the advice! I'm on it!
I have a hyper 10sc that is lighter than the bump 2.0 and the extra weight of this truck is actually enjoyable for over all handling but I am aware of the benifits of lightening I have 8 rc's that have the best money can buy, I spent over $20,000 on RC in two years lol! I actually added up my paypal and was trippen! My last project was a RC18B2, I put almost $700 in mods! All carbon and titanium everything! Bullit Proof From point blank range lol!
The Losi is on it's way!
I have a hyper 10sc that is lighter than the bump 2.0 and the extra weight of this truck is actually enjoyable for over all handling but I am aware of the benifits of lightening I have 8 rc's that have the best money can buy, I spent over $20,000 on RC in two years lol! I actually added up my paypal and was trippen! My last project was a RC18B2, I put almost $700 in mods! All carbon and titanium everything! Bullit Proof From point blank range lol!
The Losi is on it's way!

RS Pro - Wrong
Tekin Redline 4.5T - Wrong
RX8 - Right
SC4x 4.5T - Right
SC4x 5.5T - Even Better.
The SC4x 4.5T has been plagued with heat issues (unless you do some ESC tweaking via hotwire) so I just can't see the RS PRo and a Redline 4.5T having any better luck. I'd go with what the experts say and also what's on the first page of this thread. Just my .02.
Tekin Redline 4.5T - Wrong
RX8 - Right
SC4x 4.5T - Right
SC4x 5.5T - Even Better.
The SC4x 4.5T has been plagued with heat issues (unless you do some ESC tweaking via hotwire) so I just can't see the RS PRo and a Redline 4.5T having any better luck. I'd go with what the experts say and also what's on the first page of this thread. Just my .02.

I have ran both the SC4X 5.5 and 4.5 motors and currently running the 4.5 . Just need to reduce a little timing on the ESC and still have more than enough power while not overheating .
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (37)

I have donr a few things to lighten and tough it up, CF towers, alum toe blocks, alum rear hubs, modded rear chasis brace, front alum brace, got the hd outdrives, tit hinge pins and links on order.
Id love to get some links for the cf akerman, new chasis and diff top plate.
this weekend im gunna shed some weight from the stock stuff like battery tray and r/x box.
Even as heavy as this kit is its freekin awesome!!!



Got a link for that chasis?
I have donr a few things to lighten and tough it up, CF towers, alum toe blocks, alum rear hubs, modded rear chasis brace, front alum brace, got the hd outdrives, tit hinge pins and links on order.
Id love to get some links for the cf akerman, new chasis and diff top plate.
this weekend im gunna shed some weight from the stock stuff like battery tray and r/x box.
Even as heavy as this kit is its freekin awesome!!!
I have donr a few things to lighten and tough it up, CF towers, alum toe blocks, alum rear hubs, modded rear chasis brace, front alum brace, got the hd outdrives, tit hinge pins and links on order.
Id love to get some links for the cf akerman, new chasis and diff top plate.
this weekend im gunna shed some weight from the stock stuff like battery tray and r/x box.
Even as heavy as this kit is its freekin awesome!!!