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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-03-2011, 06:56 PM
  #11191  
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I installed the lightened outdrives today and I noticed the center ones have a deeper recess for the dogbone than the stockers. I believe it will plunge deeper without bottoming out and bending the center rear shaft during extreme chassis flex. Maybe I won't break any more cvd pin's now
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:12 PM
  #11192  
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so you know how on the front lower arms there are three holes for the shock mount, for adjustment? ever split the plastic between the holes? Lost a shock screw tonight. put another one in and lost it too...then i noticed i split the plastic in between those holes.

the Ten T arms fit the SCTE, right?
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:13 PM
  #11193  
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Ten T arms are exactly the same.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:16 PM
  #11194  
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Ten T arms are exactly the same.
is there anything else i should do while i have the front arms off? I also noticed on the same arm i have front to back wobble that i didnt have on the other side.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:26 PM
  #11195  
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
On a bit more technical note.
I'm looking at the tenshock for the losi as there seem to be pretty good reports and it has a 5mm shaft so it doesnt need cheesy adapters.
I'm assuming the 4000 is the better chioce for the losi over the 4600.
My truck is still 100% stock except for chrispins, 7-7-3 and Calibers.
the smallest pinion i have is a 15 so i guess i should get a 11-12-13 combo for that thing.
Opinions?
i have the 4600 and its insanely fast and hard to keep the temps down even with a 12 t pinion id recommend the 4000 if anything. my truck is on the heavy side.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:55 PM
  #11196  
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
hm, idiotic noob question...5-5-2 means front-middle-rear or rear-middle-front? I thought lighter in the rear, but Ryan's comment makes me think I'm wrong as hell.
Yes, its always front middle center. And I meant heavier than the 2 you already had in the back, like try 3. Works well on high bite tracks.

Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
Maybe he meant 3 in the rear as opposed to the 2 the Op was running.
Yeppers, you are correct.

Originally Posted by Chase1472 View Post
I don't worry about my diff oil to much any more... 12 pack in and all the diffs are leaking like crazy.... Grease only helps so much
for the ones that leak, we have noticed that if you sand the diff case, it uaually takes care of it.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:31 PM
  #11197  
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Default lower shock hole

Originally Posted by godofcable View Post
so you know how on the front lower arms there are three holes for the shock mount, for adjustment? ever split the plastic between the holes? Lost a shock screw tonight. put another one in and lost it too...then i noticed i split the plastic in between those holes.

the Ten T arms fit the SCTE, right?
Hey god. The same thing happened to me last week caught it on time thou. I had some integy aluminum arms thank god . Crc didn't have the plastic ones in stock.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:51 PM
  #11198  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Losi will not be replacing whole diffs for anyone. The whole diff is not bad. And running Losi pins, the aluminum blocks do not tend to oval. However if you've run your truck for months and months and your diff goes out...I dont mean to be mean about it at all, but that sounds like wear and tear to me. If you ran your truck a few times and the diff gears blew because it was assembled wrong, well then that is our fault.

Those of you that are receiving gears, those are the last of them for some time. Also, as a reminder, replace all the gears at once as the sets match as they may have come out of different molds. Just an fyi.
Im not expecting a whole diff. We all new the pins were bad and created wear. I have no problem spending money on this truck. I love to drive it all the time and am killin the comp at my local track. But the blocks are wearing funny, i only have four race days on the truck and the blocks dont look good. I just want to get some better blocks that dont wear funny. I put one battery threw the truck up and down the street to beak the diffs in and then put the chris pins in and from then have been to four race days.

So are the chris pins wearing out the blocks? Do i just need to run the harden pins that your guys sent me? Let me know cuz i want to keep this truck running in tip top shape
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:57 PM
  #11199  
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Soo are there wheel hexes and nuts available? Lost them both in the main....
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:58 PM
  #11200  
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Originally Posted by afaberc View Post
Im not expecting a whole diff. We all new the pins were bad and created wear. I have no problem spending money on this truck. I love to drive it all the time and am killin the comp at my local track. But the blocks are wearing funny, i only have four race days on the truck and the blocks dont look good. I just want to get some better blocks that dont wear funny. I put one battery threw the truck up and down the street to beak the diffs in and then put the chris pins in and from then have been to four race days.

So are the chris pins wearing out the blocks? Do i just need to run the harden pins that your guys sent me? Let me know cuz i want to keep this truck running in tip top shape
these kind of thoughts and questions are on my mind as well as i have 1 of the 1st shipments of the 2nd shipment on the way to me now and will be here in a couple of days (woohoo) but i am still unsure if the pins will hold up etc
cant wait to finnally get my hands on this truck
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:05 AM
  #11201  
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Default rebuilding diffs?

So anyone know the proper way to build these diffs without them leaking? I'm not complaining just asking . I watched the Drake vid on YouTube. I'm using the black grease. Making sure the mating surfaces are flat . Used green slime and all . I fill them to the top with the sun gear on and level it off and install the top piece. Orings have been replaced. I've noticed a lot of play in the outdrives . I alternate between 2 sets of diffs change lube every 4 races. I really don't have a ton of time on the truck under 20 6min races . I do have the lightened outdrives to install on one set of diffs. Just waiting on rebuild kits to finish up. Like I say I'm not complaining. Just looking to make sure I'm not missing anything. A beefier diff set would be great. My losi 2.0 buggy never has issues. Thanks
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:19 AM
  #11202  
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Default flo tec body

Originally Posted by godofcable View Post
i'd like to see this too
I just painted a flow tec body for my scte . It's on my Facebook thou. Can't upload here on my cell at work at the moment. I'll try to post in the morning......
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:32 AM
  #11203  
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Originally Posted by jmc23 View Post
So anyone know the proper way to build these diffs without them leaking? I'm not complaining just asking . I watched the Drake vid on YouTube. I'm using the black grease. Making sure the mating surfaces are flat . Used green slime and all . I fill them to the top with the sun gear on and level it off and install the top piece. Orings have been replaced. I've noticed a lot of play in the outdrives . I alternate between 2 sets of diffs change lube every 4 races. I really don't have a ton of time on the truck under 20 6min races . I do have the lightened outdrives to install on one set of diffs. Just waiting on rebuild kits to finish up. Like I say I'm not complaining. Just looking to make sure I'm not missing anything. A beefier diff set would be great. My losi 2.0 buggy never has issues. Thanks
Mine don't leak much.. but did you shim your diff's outdrives for some of the excess play? I know two of my outdrives (1 on the center, 1 on rear) had a SICK amount of slop in them, I Just used a couple of my 8ight shims on the inside btw the case and the pin. I'm only asking because maybe some of your leaking is from the slop and not keeping the o-ring seated properly. The other thought most do was fine sanding on a flat surface, but from what you said I gather you did this? Lay a piece of sand paper on a flat table (high grit) and just smooth out a little then use some grease btw cases and close it up.

Sounds like you did the later... so maybe try shimming up those diff outdrives a little next time you service them.
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:49 AM
  #11204  
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Originally Posted by umm winning View Post
Soo are there wheel hexes and nuts available? Lost them both in the main....
HPI blitz hexas work great and have a set screw to lock them in place. They are maybe a mm wider then stock though. Doesnt cause any clearance problems but might make the width illegal for ROAR races.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:32 AM
  #11205  
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Originally Posted by jmc23 View Post
So anyone know the proper way to build these diffs without them leaking? I'm not complaining just asking . I watched the Drake vid on YouTube. I'm using the black grease. Making sure the mating surfaces are flat . Used green slime and all . I fill them to the top with the sun gear on and level it off and install the top piece. Orings have been replaced. I've noticed a lot of play in the outdrives . I alternate between 2 sets of diffs change lube every 4 races. I really don't have a ton of time on the truck under 20 6min races . I do have the lightened outdrives to install on one set of diffs. Just waiting on rebuild kits to finish up. Like I say I'm not complaining. Just looking to make sure I'm not missing anything. A beefier diff set would be great. My losi 2.0 buggy never has issues. Thanks
on that vid he says not to use the shims behind the sun gears. Make sure you use them on the SCTE. When I removed mine I had tons of play also. When I build a new diff I also have been puting a dab of ca glue in the plastic collar before I insert the metal insert for more streghth. Someone else here thought of it. The other most important part is sanding the cases.
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