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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-24-2011, 11:31 AM
  #10336  
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Rage left my place with all the parts to fix the truck... Now I know how that other guy bent his chassis upward in the front. Those ramps are to small, they buck you at speed, all the throttle in the world wasn't bringing that nose up.
ya, ive been doing some shock changes and mods to help the front stay up or actually pick up. But watching that I definitely know i wont be bending my chassis anytime soon.
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:57 AM
  #10337  
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Originally Posted by SCTRacerX View Post
Too bad the mud flaps look cool, but within 5 mins of putting my brand new body on the rear wings of the bumper cracked, it so I think I am going to have to trim the rear bumper down. I just removed my side guards, I broke one, then bought a new set as I took the old ones off I was like hmmm maybe I should just leave them off lol. I haven't raced it since to say if they made a difference for me.
I removed the whole bumper and slapped a Tbone 10T bumper on. So much smaller than the one for the scte and I heard it weighs less too. I ended up just cutting my body short by a few MMs. I cut straight across from where the fake roll bar goes across the back of the body. Seems like there is nothing that will crack the body in the back now.
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:58 AM
  #10338  
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Originally Posted by SCTRacerX View Post
I need to through my hog up on the scale.. Im sure it caries between 6.7 lbs and 7.4 lbs depending on if I'm running my 1/8th scale motor and 3s lipo. I also threw on the HB D8 Shocks so those added a little weight also, never thought I would see a Chris mod for running the big springs, but owell. They work awesome, and I never have to worry about bottoming out even with ultra low ride height. Still need to test out some diff springs and oil weights for them but I was running 30 wt all around and they seemed fine, I just picked up some 20wt and I going to see if that is going to work next. Running the greys in the rear and white up front I think, without going to look. Anyone else tried any diff springs out for 8ight shocks or D8 shocks on the SCTE?
I'm using greys front and rear.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:05 PM
  #10339  
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Originally Posted by MarqueeRc View Post
Yes, but geared high at least 19-20t, it has proven more than capable to hang with evrybody on our big, 1/8 scale type track..A decent c rating lipo also helps imo..
That's all I was trying to say....
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:08 PM
  #10340  
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
You could spend a fortune on Ti hardware if you replaced all of it. The biggest bang for the buck is to replace the 14 large 8-32x1/2" chassis screws with AE aluminum screws, the 4 large 8-32x1/2" button head screws in the front arms with lunsford titanium, and to replace all the 5-40 locknuts(24 I believe) with aluminum ones. Couple that with Ti hingepins, and Ti turnbuckles, and thats about a 2.5~3 ounce savings in total. After that, you are down to replacing 5-40 screws of various lengths....so your return on investment will diminish drastically.
I think very highly of the screws from Tony's....nice set and relatively cheap.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:11 PM
  #10341  
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Originally Posted by LRPO View Post
Bro the 1415 on 2s is deffinitly more sluggish than the 1410 on 2s. I think its slow also on 2s. Its been talked about before and even Salad said the 1415 with a 18 tooth pinion on 3s is the same speed as the 1410 on 2s with the same gearing. If you have the 1415 3s is when it comes alive.
I just wouldn't use the word "sluggish" makes it sound like a turd when it's plenty fast. I do agree last week with a 18t it didnt run as nice as when the 20t is in. I use high quality batteries and have no problems keeping up with other combo's

It very well might have a sweet spot that is small...20t or nothing.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:25 PM
  #10342  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
I think very highly of the screws from Tony's....nice set and relatively cheap.
But they are just steel screws...nothing special about them and no weight savings. They would be fine as a replacement set, but not very useful for someone looking to save weight.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
But they are just steel screws...nothing special about them and no weight savings. They would be fine as a replacement set, but not very useful for someone looking to save weight.
That's the point....shave weight elsewhere. Leave truck as is, why run it lighter? It's weight has it's benefits. Stock still kicks everything around on our track.

The price of those ti screws is ridiculous weight vs. cost
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:35 PM
  #10344  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
I just wouldn't use the word "sluggish" makes it sound like a turd when it's plenty fast. I do agree last week with a 18t it didnt run as nice as when the 20t is in. I use high quality batteries and have no problems keeping up with other combo's

It very well might have a sweet spot that is small...20t or nothing.
When I had the 1415, I thought sluggish was a pretty good verb for it Definitely not as fast as some other choices on 2s. "Plenty Fast" was not a term I would use to describe it. Tractable, smooth, cool running, etc, might work better as a speed demon it is not. A great choice for slower drivers, drivers with heavy fingers, or drivers that like the losi in it's heavy and lethargic handling stock form as it's a motor that won't get you in trouble via explosive power output and wheelspin.

I hear it's a beast on 3s, but thats irrelevant to my needs

and yes, I ran a 20t pinion
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:41 PM
  #10345  
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
When I had the 1415, I thought sluggish was a pretty good verb for it Definitely not as fast as some other choices on 2s. "Plenty Fast" was not a term I would use to describe it. Tractable, smooth, cool running, etc, might work better as a speed demon it is not. A great choice for slower drivers, drivers with heavy fingers, or drivers that like the losi in it's heavy and lethargic handling stock form as it's a motor that won't get you in trouble via explosive power output and wheelspin.

I hear it's a beast on 3s, but thats irrelevant to my needs

and yes, I ran a 20t pinion
To each his own I guess....only time you need speed is straights. Which it hangs with any other motor. Around track it doesn't really matter what you run.

I guess I like the truck stock...until someone with a heavily lightened one beats me I'll stick with the heavy, lethargic version and sluggish motor.
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:49 PM
  #10346  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
That's the point....shave weight elsewhere. Leave truck as is, why run it lighter? It's weight has it's benefits. Stock still kicks everything around on our track.

The price of those ti screws is ridiculous weight vs. cost
The weight really has NO benefits. The truck is stable and planted because of the geometry and stance, not so much the weight. Titanium isn't cheap, but when you've already shaved elsewhere for free by chopping off niceties, it becomes more than viable

Why run it lighter?

1. faster acceleration
2. faster braking
3. quicker rotation
4. longer battery life
5. lower temperatures
6. less driveline stress
7. less stress on suspension components
8. ability to run taller gearing which gives even more speed
9. better mid air correctiveness
10. Corner speed
11. Basically everything that creates speed on the track is enhanced....need I go on?

Being heavy only has one, rather dubious benefit, and thats hackability. I'm not a hacker, so I don't consider that a benefit. I don't see any negative attributes of being a pound lighter than stock while working through traffic as other trucks still seem to bounce off of me.....but I definitely see the benefits of that listed above while running. Having driven the truck in both forms, I know for a fact that the lighter version is night and day better than the heavy
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:55 PM
  #10347  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
To each his own I guess....only time you need speed is straights. Which it hangs with any other motor. Around track it doesn't really matter what you run.

I guess I like the truck stock...until someone with a heavily lightened one beats me I'll stick with the heavy, lethargic version and sluggish motor.
I guess it depends on your track. The 1415 lacked the rip needed to clear jumps out of tight corners that other motors provide. It would also get pulled down the straights by several lengths by some other combos. I race in an area where the guys are fast enough I couldn't live with losing senseless time like that, so I sold the motor and moved on. The Tenshock will obliterate the 1415 in all regards, as will the smaller 1410.

If you are happy and doing well with it, then by all means keep it, and stay heavy. Like I said, that settup works good for slower drivers. Many of us, however, don't have that luxury if we want to compete as our driving ability is all very very close so settup and your vehicle becomes paramount
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:03 PM
  #10348  
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Originally Posted by Semple View Post
I raced my SCTE at the Ontario RC-Pro round 1 race at Average Joe's/Vineland Speedway this past weekend. Had a terrible qualifying and ended up somewhere in the B. Won the B by a rather large margin and bumped to the A. Started from the back in the A and won the A by again, a rather large margin.

It's cool that shortcourse doesn't blow anymore.

My truck is totally stock, slightly bent shocktowers, busted rear bumper, etc. - Running an RX8 and Novak 5.5t sc motor. Proline Sniper SC tires are dialed.
congrats john thats awesome. im the dude that bought your ultima.
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:15 PM
  #10349  
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
The weight really has NO benefits.
On a big outdoor track, you want some extra baggage.
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:21 PM
  #10350  
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I think n sc heavier the better as these ate affected by the wind and with a heavier car it won't affect it as much.
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