9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
05-19-2011, 10:08 AM
#9976
Originally Posted by hacker07
The only shims I know of that are available seperately are from kyosho.
05-19-2011, 10:12 AM
#9977
Originally Posted by Casper
It is the TEN-SCTE
I mess that up all the time as well! 
I know I am biased but I truely believe the SCTE is the best 4X4 on the market right now. Easiest to drive fast and consistant. The other trucks on the market right now can all go fast but they all look harder to drive to me.
Since droop is a little hard to meaure directly without the right tools, the droop is usualy conveyed on the setup sheets through shock length which is usually measured using the centers of the mounting screws so it can be measured on the car easier. Something you can do with a simple pair of calipers or a small ruler/scale.
I mess that up all the time as well! I know I am biased but I truely believe the SCTE is the best 4X4 on the market right now. Easiest to drive fast and consistant. The other trucks on the market right now can all go fast but they all look harder to drive to me.Since droop is a little hard to meaure directly without the right tools, the droop is usualy conveyed on the setup sheets through shock length which is usually measured using the centers of the mounting screws so it can be measured on the car easier. Something you can do with a simple pair of calipers or a small ruler/scale.
05-19-2011, 10:17 AM
#9978
Originally Posted by larlev
Ah...I must be calling it wrong then. What are those little screws that go down into the chassis from the arms..Chassis stop screws? How do you determine how in or out those should be?
use a caliper to measure, put one end of the caliper into the bottom shock screw, then line the top end of the caliper up with the center of the shock tower mount screw... set your hight to your needs.. I like 89mm front and 101mm rear, I find this works best.
Consider doing the losi 8ight droop pad mod as well (should be referenced on the front page) <---- Awesome mod.
05-19-2011, 10:19 AM
#9979
Originally Posted by 8ight-e
16t is great on large outdoor tracks,, 14t for medium tracks and 12t for small tight tracks.
As the others noted Novak is for sensored only.. Most are running MMp, MM, MMM's or the Rx8 with the 3800.. they all work great, keep in mind the MMp on low voltage setups is very VERY picky with what servo's will work w/o issues, I always tell everyone to just get the hitec 985mg tis one of the best servo's around for the money and performance. If you have issues w/ the MMp just bypass and run a direct plug from your 2s lipo (only works on 2s lipo setups) into your Rx and disable onboard BEC (pull center wire from esc, or use an extension and cut the center on it).
As the others noted Novak is for sensored only.. Most are running MMp, MM, MMM's or the Rx8 with the 3800.. they all work great, keep in mind the MMp on low voltage setups is very VERY picky with what servo's will work w/o issues, I always tell everyone to just get the hitec 985mg tis one of the best servo's around for the money and performance. If you have issues w/ the MMp just bypass and run a direct plug from your 2s lipo (only works on 2s lipo setups) into your Rx and disable onboard BEC (pull center wire from esc, or use an extension and cut the center on it).
Or is the 1415 better all around on 20t only?
I have found the $5 spektrum cap spm1600 works great with no issues if using MMP with savox servo's. I have had zero glitching since installing using 2s. I do run spektrum radio
05-19-2011, 10:33 AM
#9981
Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Those are droop screws...
use a caliper to measure, put one end of the caliper into the bottom shock screw, then line the top end of the caliper up with the center of the shock tower mount screw... set your hight to your needs.. I like 89mm front and 101mm rear, I find this works best.
Consider doing the losi 8ight droop pad mod as well (should be referenced on the front page) <---- Awesome mod.
use a caliper to measure, put one end of the caliper into the bottom shock screw, then line the top end of the caliper up with the center of the shock tower mount screw... set your hight to your needs.. I like 89mm front and 101mm rear, I find this works best.
Consider doing the losi 8ight droop pad mod as well (should be referenced on the front page) <---- Awesome mod.
Here's the issue I have. I measure the shocks center to center and get them same...then I go back and measure the blue area of shock from adjusting collar to cap and it is a very different measurement. If the shocks are the same length shouldn't this area be the same?
I messed with droop screws but measurement doesn't change when screwing in or out. Bear with me here, want to understand and get this right.
05-19-2011, 10:33 AM
#9982
Originally Posted by Ridley
Geez, do you live next door to HH? Mine shipped yesterday, hopefully they are here tomorrow before I leave for the weekend for round one of the state series.
Did you happen to get a weight comparison between those and the stockers?
Mine shipped yesterday, hopefully they are here tomorrow before I leave for the weekend for round one of the state series.Did you happen to get a weight comparison between those and the stockers?
05-19-2011, 10:34 AM
#9983
Great bashing vid
05-19-2011, 10:39 AM
#9984
Originally Posted by larlev
OK...dumb question. These are measured with truck on droop blocks, and wheels/tires off......correct?
Here's the issue I have. I measure the shocks center to center and get them same...then I go back and measure the blue area of shock from adjusting collar to cap and it is a very different measurement. If the shocks are the same length shouldn't this area be the same?
I messed with droop screws but measurement doesn't change when screwing in or out. Bear with me here, want to understand and get this right.
Here's the issue I have. I measure the shocks center to center and get them same...then I go back and measure the blue area of shock from adjusting collar to cap and it is a very different measurement. If the shocks are the same length shouldn't this area be the same?
I messed with droop screws but measurement doesn't change when screwing in or out. Bear with me here, want to understand and get this right.
05-19-2011, 10:41 AM
#9985
Originally Posted by larlev
Ah...I must be calling it wrong then. What are those little screws that go down into the chassis from the arms..Chassis stop screws? How do you determine how in or out those should be?
Originally Posted by larlev
OK...dumb question. These are measured with truck on droop blocks, and wheels/tires off......correct?
Here's the issue I have. I measure the shocks center to center and get them same...then I go back and measure the blue area of shock from adjusting collar to cap and it is a very different measurement. If the shocks are the same length shouldn't this area be the same?
I messed with droop screws but measurement doesn't change when screwing in or out. Bear with me here, want to understand and get this right.
Here's the issue I have. I measure the shocks center to center and get them same...then I go back and measure the blue area of shock from adjusting collar to cap and it is a very different measurement. If the shocks are the same length shouldn't this area be the same?
I messed with droop screws but measurement doesn't change when screwing in or out. Bear with me here, want to understand and get this right.
Measureing the over all length of each shock will determine how much droop you have or how long each shock can extend.
The shock collor measurement determines the spring preload and this determins the ride hieght of the truck. The lower the collars the higher the truck sits. The higher the collars lower the truck sits. These are two independent settings. (for the most part).
05-19-2011, 10:53 AM
#9988
Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
Not quite , about 70 miles away .... Didnt weigh the centers but the F/R stockers are 7.1 grams and the HD lightened drives are 4.9 grams .
05-19-2011, 11:13 AM
#9990
Originally Posted by SEF
