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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-14-2011, 02:44 PM
  #9526  
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Truck has been sitting for the last 2 weeks and I have a race tomorrow so I decided to do a little maintenence and check some things out. I found something that everyone needs to check. With the stock rear 3* toe plates it puts the rear arms at so much of an angle that the arms are binding against the toe plate. I removed all shocks and my front arms would flop in the breese but the rears would bind in any position. I cleaned, fine-sanded, and lubed all rear pins. To fix the binding I sanded the end of the arm that rides against the toe plate at an angle then rounded it off so it wouldn't bind throught travel. I put it back together and now the rear flops around like the front.

Before I re-installed the shocks I replaced the springs with some Kyosho 8th scale springs and lower cups using the Chris "Attaboy" Attebery adapters
They work great with the Kyosho springs and hardware as well. I will drive it tomorrow and see how it feels.

I found something that seems not to follow everyone else's findings. The only diff I have that is leaking is the rear one. I have had Chris Pins installed from the beginning and I have pulled the diff down once before for it leaking. When I rebuilt it the last time I used the green slime on the orings and grease on the outdrive shafts. I am running 5-5-3 for oil. Along with the rear diff leaking I noticed that the rear out drives are the only ones really showing any king of wear. I have over 25 races on this truck and am running a 100% 8th scale power system in it. I guess what I am saying is I am very impressed with the durability of the truck and with the way it is holding up. When the diffs come more readily available and the HD lightned outdrives come out I will probably just install a new rear diff with the outdrives and call it a day.

Great job on this one Losi and thanks to Chris for his improvements!
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Old 05-14-2011, 02:58 PM
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I built up the SC10 last night... If you hate wrenching on RC's the SC10 isn't the truck for you. They over engineered the crap out of the truck.

One thing Rage said last night was... "If the SC10 breaks in the quals, you won't be seeing the truck again the rest of the night." and I find this true. If you break anything in the tranny or steering it would take to long to swap shit out in time for the next heat. Changing your diff fluids?? Yea right, not at the track you aren't.

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Old 05-14-2011, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
I built up the SC10 last night... If you hate wrenching on RC's the SC10 isn't the truck for you. They over engineered the crap out of the truck.

One thing Rage said last night was... "If the SC10 breaks in the quals, you won't be seeing the truck again the rest of the night." and I find this true. If you break anything in the tranny or steering it would take to long to swap shit out in time for the next heat. Changing your diff fluids?? Yea right, not at the track you aren't.


I hear that...same goes with there rc8be kinda just got used to it
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:05 PM
  #9529  
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Not saying it's really a bad thing, but like you said... Getting used to it will take some time. It was a cool build, I just hope I don't have to take it apart anytime soon.

After it was built it reminds me of the Jammin. Pretty narrow and shorter than the SCTe. I can see people running Slash rear offsets on the truck to make it a little wider which should help it a little more on a bumpy track at speed.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:17 PM
  #9530  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
Truck has been sitting for the last 2 weeks and I have a race tomorrow so I decided to do a little maintenence and check some things out. I found something that everyone needs to check. With the stock rear 3* toe plates it puts the rear arms at so much of an angle that the arms are binding against the toe plate. I removed all shocks and my front arms would flop in the breese but the rears would bind in any position. I cleaned, fine-sanded, and lubed all rear pins. To fix the binding I sanded the end of the arm that rides against the toe plate at an angle then rounded it off so it wouldn't bind throught travel. I put it back together and now the rear flops around like the front.

Before I re-installed the shocks I replaced the springs with some Kyosho 8th scale springs and lower cups using the Chris "Attaboy" Attebery adapters
They work great with the Kyosho springs and hardware as well. I will drive it tomorrow and see how it feels.

I found something that seems not to follow everyone else's findings. The only diff I have that is leaking is the rear one. I have had Chris Pins installed from the beginning and I have pulled the diff down once before for it leaking. When I rebuilt it the last time I used the green slime on the orings and grease on the outdrive shafts. I am running 5-5-3 for oil. Along with the rear diff leaking I noticed that the rear out drives are the only ones really showing any king of wear. I have over 25 races on this truck and am running a 100% 8th scale power system in it. I guess what I am saying is I am very impressed with the durability of the truck and with the way it is holding up. When the diffs come more readily available and the HD lightned outdrives come out I will probably just install a new rear diff with the outdrives and call it a day.

Great job on this one Losi and thanks to Chris for his improvements!
good thing you mentioned this as i too noticed the front end moved way more freely then the rear as it seemed to be binding somewhere i always thought it was the mud flaps hitting the ground and the rebound was stiff feeling.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
I built up the SC10 last night... If you hate wrenching on RC's the SC10 isn't the truck for you. They over engineered the crap out of the truck.

One thing Rage said last night was... "If the SC10 breaks in the quals, you won't be seeing the truck again the rest of the night." and I find this true. If you break anything in the tranny or steering it would take to long to swap shit out in time for the next heat. Changing your diff fluids?? Yea right, not at the track you aren't.
Gotta love the SCTE and its simplicity..
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:23 PM
  #9532  
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Originally Posted by bigjerry View Post
I just got an Losi Ten -scte what do i need to get what breaks the most whats the best hop ups to get

Get rid of the stock shock towers.....they're stamped metal and bend easy. Most have replaced them with the Losi cf towers, but others are available from other sources.

Other options are the Losi aluminum towers....they also have alum chassis braces too but arn't really neccessary.

Tekin RX8 and a Castle 1410 is golden. Other choices include the Novak 4.5 and 5.5. Most seem to be running the 4.5 with the 14 mm Tuning Rotor (#5949) from Novak though. I think Novak offers the 4.5 with the tuning rotor already installed now too. The Tekin 4.5 is another option....although some have had heat issues with it.

Chris pins for the diff....don't run the stock ones. However, Horizon is shipping hardened pins now. Diff Fluids are a personal choice....unless you like the baby poo grease that comes in the diffs.

Stock shocks are more than fine, but some have tried 8ight shocks....just add a washer to the shock bushing to space it out for clearence unless you want to use the 8ight shock standoffs....but they're not neccessary....just add the washer.

Reports of breakage have included the arms and rear bumper......but I haven't seen any issues with mine. A new version of the rear bumper is supposed to be release soon though. Not sure about the arms.

The droop screws wear into the chassis......read the first post for a fix.....or PM Saladfork.....he can tell you more about it......he has pics of a fix too.

Use some red Locktight on the servo saver. Blue doesn't seem to hold up well and will let loose.

Read the first post on the first page of this blog. That should keep you busy for a while and get you started. Run the crap out of it and have fun....it'll take it.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:26 PM
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Default Rear not rebounding

Another alternative for lubing up the hinge pins is to use graphite powder. I like the WD-40, Kalguard look, but I found the graphite powder to work great on the hinge pins and it doesnt attract dirt/dust like most liquids.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:30 PM
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Default Aluminum Adjustable Hinge Pin Mounts

Ryan - Any word the on the f/r aluminum adjustable hinge pin mounts? I canít find them anywhere for sale. Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Bartlett View Post
Another alternative for lubing up the hinge pins is to use graphite powder. I like the WD-40, Kalguard look, but I found the graphite powder to work great on the hinge pins and it doesnt attract dirt/dust like most liquids.
I actually had used the graphite powder the last time and it did not work. When I took it apart today the graphite powder had packed together tight and came out in what looked like sheets. I am trying the Red Ice, I think its called. It is a liquid that you put on then wipe off after 10 seconds. I will report later on how it holds up.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
I actually had used the graphite powder the last time and it did not work. When I took it apart today the graphite powder had packed together tight and came out in what looked like sheets. I am trying the Red Ice, I think its called. It is a liquid that you put on then wipe off after 10 seconds. I will report later on how it holds up.
Cool! Look forward to hearing how that works! Thanks! I have my new droop screw mod installed and will be testing it next weekend. So far it looks great
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:01 PM
  #9537  
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does anybody know when the replacement diffs will be avalable? me truck has been down for over two weeks. any info would be great
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:01 PM
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Some of the best stuff I have tried was TDL "The Dry Lube" it has a solvent carrier that cleans and teflon in it that stays behind after the carrier evaporates . Its not for bearings but works great for hinge pins and pivot balls .
http://www.blastergroup.com.au/dry-teflon-lube.html
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
I actually had used the graphite powder the last time and it did not work. When I took it apart today the graphite powder had packed together tight and came out in what looked like sheets. I am trying the Red Ice, I think its called. It is a liquid that you put on then wipe off after 10 seconds. I will report later on how it holds up.

Great way to free up the rear of the truck is to polish the hinge pins. Metal polish or even tooth paste will work fine. First use a scotch brite pad and then polish using a polishing bit on a dremel. They will be as smooth as glass and will not need any liquids or powders.

Another consideration is to make sure you’re not cranking down on the screws that anchor the hinge pin covers/mounts and the screws that secure the rear hubs and as already stated make sure the sway bar retention allen screws are not over tightened as well. I adjust everything with the shocks off or at least the bottoms out of the arms, to make sure nothing is binding by continuously checking the arms while tightening.
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MarqueeRc View Post
Dude we are not interested in a vid suggesting that this vxl system is a viable option for consumers...Get over it and due what you will...I have seen this system fail to many times for ppl using it in the Losi...Thing is, your vid may mislead others into thinking otherwise, so just keep it to yourself as it may lead them to a bad experience...Your field test are way different than the usual loads and paces this truck will be put through with a newb or with anybody for that matter at the track...Your temp readings must be flawwed!!Pm Salad a vid (As i am not interested b/c I know the outcome) of you running this setup even as low as 12 tooth for ten-minutes, than show a temp reading on the vid right after while still recording??It's just, I have gotten temp readings with this system in the slash 4wd and according to your testing, it gets hottter with the slash 4x4 after 10 mins than what you claim you temted on the losi, which makes no sense whatsoever!!So something does not seem right with your testing!!
now i know you full of crap! you were definitly doing something wrong, and dont say "we" nobody else said that there not interested in a vid. by the way now i am on my 8 battery threw it and still no over heating! and i am on the throttle big time! 124 was my highest. boy it is nice to prove people wrong. i dont care what you say i love this setup. not saying i am not going to also try my mmp and 1410 when it arives but i learned something from people like you on this forum and that is not to listen to everyone, try it yourself. and thanks for saying your not interested in a video, that makes me want to show it even more! now if i canget rid of this pesty rain were having so i can shoot it.
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