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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-13-2011, 03:16 PM
  #9466  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I know this is not much help after the fact but if you put the shocks on the truck the correct way this becomes impossible to loose the lower shock cup. Since there is an index key on the eyelets if you have the slot pointing outboard on the truck when you install the shock onto the arm the cups can only go down and into the arm and will not come off. This is a common feature from the 8ight to keep the spring cups in place for long gas mains.

If you cannot find any in stock at an online shop then they are scheduled to be back in stock at Horizon at the end of next week.
I found this feature pretty neat on lower shock cup. kool beans!!
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:18 PM
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[QUOTE=snowboardgeek1;9107219]Casper, would you mind posting a pic? Just so we know that we're installing them correctly.[/QUOTEHey Geek,if you pull the boots up it is very easy to see the nub or pin that is on the shock bottom
eyelet part and there is only one opening on the spring retainer,hope that helps!
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LRPO View Post
Real talk! How in the hell did you get them to send you the 3800??? hell if that's the case I'm calling them today!
I want to hear about this also....something isn't right
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
I want to hear about this also....something isn't right
His post was a bit confusing. I think he may have been saying that he bought the 3800 separately but got CC to replace his 2400 because it had too much drag...?

Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
On Wed I posted that I was having problems with the ass end coming around in every turn. Well i figured I'd let you guys know what the problem was-it was the motor had too much drag (even with drag brake off). I changed the castle 2400 to the 3800 and bam she's driving like she is on rails. Made a world of difference and Castle is sending me a new motor and then once I get it I drop my problem motor in the bag and put it in the mail. So good job Castle on the customer service I don't even have to send them my motor til I get the new motor and they are paying the shipping.
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
You tell'em Rid!! Everyone know how I feel about the MMP's so I don't need to mention anything.
The thing is on 4s it works great , no BEC brown out or anything . just seems to be bad running 2s ?
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:36 PM
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Should sway bar have side to side/up and down movement, or just up and down? What are the set screws for?
I know you guys have said "move freely"..just want to clarify.

To me it can't work if side to side play is there. Am I wrong?
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nekkard View Post
His post was a bit confusing. I think he may have been saying that he bought the 3800 separately but got CC to replace his 2400 because it had too much drag...?
That still makes no sense...how would I know if it has too much drag? You can't as far as I know. It's gonna have drag with those magnets.
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
That still makes no sense...how would I know if it has too much drag? You can't as far as I know. It's gonna have drag with those magnets.
When he had the 1415, did he even gear it to 20t?
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
When he had the 1415, did he even gear it to 20t?
Again...if thats the case I'll be trading my 1415. the damn thing has strong magnets however you look at it. I still need clarification on his post. Is he saying the 1415 was defective or did Castle just shoot him a new 1410 as a trade? Please confirm.
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I know this is not much help after the fact but if you put the shocks on the truck the correct way this becomes impossible to loose the lower shock cup. Since there is an index key on the eyelets if you have the slot pointing outboard on the truck when you install the shock onto the arm the cups can only go down and into the arm and will not come off. This is a common feature from the 8ight to keep the spring cups in place for long gas mains.

If you cannot find any in stock at an online shop then they are scheduled to be back in stock at Horizon at the end of next week.
Thank you for your post! I lost the cup right after I changed oil weights DOHH!...
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Check out the Viper test track it's located in Monroe (private). It's SICK!!! I can't wait to get out there.
This track is on one of my commuting routes and I've been watching the progress but have yet to see anyone there when I go by. Would love to run a few packs on it.
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:52 PM
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Okay why would you trade a 1415 for 1410? You can sell your used 1415 for 80-90 on here, and I seen lightly used 1410 for 65 on here today. But hey if you want to try to trade go ahead. Are you not happy with the 1415?



Also does any one here use a power screw driver to work on RC's? I have been looking at a few and most are around 100.00 for a small driver, anyone had any luck with a cheaper driver for wrenching on RC'S? Don't want to strip things out but would like to speed the process up, I seen the guys at the hobby shop using power tools and the light bulb went off in my head like ooh yeah why didn't I think of that. Still haven't found a great tool for the job yet.
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:01 PM
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Sorry if my post was a little confusing. I had the 2400 which had too much drag even without the drag brake on is what I'm assuming so castle is sending me a new one.

I bought the 3800 separately and drove that after having the bad 2400 and it was like night and day. I wasn't spinning out in corners anymore when letting off the throttle etc... It's like I'm driving on rails

Hope that clarifies my post if not just ask
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SCTRacerX View Post
Okay why would you trade a 1415 for 1410? You can sell your used 1415 for 80-90 on here, and I seen lightly used 1410 for 65 on here today. But hey if you want to try to trade go ahead. Are you not happy with the 1415?



Also does any one here use a power screw driver to work on RC's? I have been looking at a few and most are around 100.00 for a small driver, anyone had any luck with a cheaper driver for wrenching on RC'S? Don't want to strip things out but would like to speed the process up, I seen the guys at the hobby shop using power tools and the light bulb went off in my head like ooh yeah why didn't I think of that. Still haven't found a great tool for the job yet.
I see a lot of sponsored guys use them. Makita has couple but all the good ones are $100+...
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
Sorry if my post was a little confusing. I had the 2400 which had too much drag even without the drag brake on is what I'm assuming so castle is sending me a new one.

I bought the 3800 separately and drove that after having the bad 2400 and it was like night and day. I wasn't spinning out in corners anymore when letting off the throttle etc... It's like I'm driving on rails

Hope that clarifies my post if not just ask
What were you geared at when you had the 2400?
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