Feint Motion

iTrader: (24)

7k in the rear diff? You should go down to about 5k.

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

I may know whats going on here. Does it spin out when you brake? Although it could be several other issues check this first. When I use 4 pole motors I find that I need to set the brake no more than 40%. I actually have my SCTE at 30%. Make sure the brake is dialed waaay out and try that. If that doesn't fix it then we can look else where. These motors are sooo powerful and that means their brake affect is just as powerful. I learned this when I tried a Tekin one day and my trucks went into the turns much better, it was because less brake.
Hope this helps,
Alvin

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

Has any of you ran the Tekin RS Pro Esc and the 4.5t motor:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VSEARCH=tt2139

What pinion would you guys start off with on most outdoor tracks?

The SCTE doesn't come with a pinion you have to buy one right?

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

He had that in the front diff. Front #=Front diff

jurquhart

iTrader: (22)

I'll have to try dialing the brake out and see if that does the trick. b/c it acts like the drag brake is on even with it off. So that is probably the problem. Thanks I appreciate it.

For my diffs 7k is in the front and 2k is in the rear.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

What Alvin said.

Also, if you have an RX8 try using Push Control to give the motor a more free rolling feel when you let off the throttle.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

I had the same problem. It was frustrating to the point where I almost didn't want to run the truck. But you could tell the truck is sooo good that it was just going to be a monster once that problem was fixed. I switched to a softer rear swaybar 1.8 (was running larger before, forget which it was), that helped, but still wasn't what I was looking for. So I tried to learn to drive with it by backing letting off throttle earlier rather braking hard. This helped a bit also, but I felt like I was giving up some time, but it's still faster than being on your lid. I still dealt with these issues for about 2-3 more weeks, but then everything just went away and I was finding myself able to drive it more aggressively like my 1/8th scale. I honestly think that as there became more slop in the truck due to normal wear, it became easier to drive. The Losi 8ight is notorious for being a better car with some slop in it and I think this truck may just be the same way. I'm not talking so much slop that stuff is breaking, but just worn in. Kinda like a cars engine needs to be broken in, I think these trucks need to be slightly broke in. Because I didn't really do anything and all of a sudden my truck was handling great out of no-where. Maybe switch to some softer springs and or sways in the rear and be patient. That's my experience anyway, anyone else have a similar experience as me?

alvinsmith75

iTrader: (38)

Scott, I agree. I much rather the feel of a well broken in vehicle. My Kyosho MP9's definately feel better that way.

larlev

iTrader: (4)

I use your motor/esc also...I don't use drag brake at all. I agree with 30-40% brake. I don't see why we need drag brake with these trucks. There is enough drag with the mod1 pinion and 4pole in itself.
Start power Low
Timing Low

These are my settings and I don't have issues with spinouts.

kerby

iTrader: (24)

Don't do it!! it will fry. The RS ESC's aren't designed for 550 can motors or for the wt of the Losi......no heat sink or fan....RX8 is the way to go.

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

The very first thing I would do, is take all the shocks off, and make sure the arms pivot free on the hingepins. 99.9% of pre built vehicles...they do not move smoothly. They should flop freely when you turn the car upside down, then rightside up....should be zero friction essentially. If they don't, use a 3.5mm reamer on the arms. The captured rod ends also have a habit of biting on the balls a little too hard and can cause binding...I suggest the better losi 8ight 2.0 rod ends. they almost never bind. The set screws that snug up the swaybars may also be too tight. Back those out till there's slop in the swaybars and it wiggles around.

make sure the rear shock tower isn't bent forward. If it bends too far, it binds on the shock caps. If it's just bent a little, you will notice the body fitting kinda funny. If you run a stock rear tower, and a stock rear bumper....you will eventually bend the rear shock tower beyond functionality.....regardless of what the factory Losi guys try to tell you.

Make sure the shock nuts on the tower aren't too tight, and binding the shock tops. The shocks should wiggle some when you twist them. If the nuts are too tight, it will distort the plastic insert and bind.

Check to make sure you dont have a hex thats stripping out in the wheels, Ive seen that cause some very erradic handling before they completely go out.

After that, I'd check to make sure the diff's are functioning freely.

There shouldn't be any spinning out with this truck...if you can't enter a corner extremely aggressively, there's likely something wrong with the truck.

All the time, guys come to me saying their truck doesn't handle like our group of friends. Almost always, the difference can be attributed to poor maintenance and suspension that is binding somewhere. IT'S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL, that the suspension be free, or everything else you change is meaningless. A good rule of thumb is "SLOPPY IS FAST"

johnnyshore

iTrader: (75)

Excellent...I think I'm at nearly identical settings.

I appreciate the info!

jurquhart

iTrader: (22)

thanks for the tips I appreciate it

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I forgot an important one. Initial accelaration high!

Blitzrockey

iTrader: (33)

what are you guys running for punch and timing on the sensorless 4 pole motors like the castle and the tenshock? I have a sc8 i have punch at like 8 and timing at about 7.