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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-12-2011, 11:06 AM
  #9316  
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7k in the rear diff? You should go down to about 5k.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:10 AM
  #9317  
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Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
Need some advice here...I have been running my losi with the 1415 motor and I'm having an issue with spinning out whenever I begin to go into a turn and i let off the throttle. It even does it at low speed. The only thing I've changed for setup from stock is my diff fluids when I installed the Chris pins. The diffs are 7-3-2.

I thought it might be the drag brake which was at 20% so I dialed that out but it is still driving like I have drag brake on. Could it be I just have a bad motor that I need to send back into Castle?

This is driving me crazy because I know it's a good truck but right now it is very squirrley to drive spinning out in every corner.

One other piece of info is if I keep on the throttle through a turn while hard to do it doesn't spin out.
I may know whats going on here. Does it spin out when you brake? Although it could be several other issues check this first. When I use 4 pole motors I find that I need to set the brake no more than 40%. I actually have my SCTE at 30%. Make sure the brake is dialed waaay out and try that. If that doesn't fix it then we can look else where. These motors are sooo powerful and that means their brake affect is just as powerful. I learned this when I tried a Tekin one day and my trucks went into the turns much better, it was because less brake.
Hope this helps,
Alvin
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:11 AM
  #9318  
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Has any of you ran the Tekin RS Pro Esc and the 4.5t motor:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VSEARCH=tt2139

What pinion would you guys start off with on most outdoor tracks?

The SCTE doesn't come with a pinion you have to buy one right?
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:12 AM
  #9319  
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
7k in the rear diff? You should go down to about 5k.
He had that in the front diff. Front #=Front diff
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:31 AM
  #9320  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
I may know whats going on here. Does it spin out when you brake? Although it could be several other issues check this first. When I use 4 pole motors I find that I need to set the brake no more than 40%. I actually have my SCTE at 30%. Make sure the brake is dialed waaay out and try that. If that doesn't fix it then we can look else where. These motors are sooo powerful and that means their brake affect is just as powerful. I learned this when I tried a Tekin one day and my trucks went into the turns much better, it was because less brake.
Hope this helps,
Alvin
I'll have to try dialing the brake out and see if that does the trick. b/c it acts like the drag brake is on even with it off. So that is probably the problem. Thanks I appreciate it.

For my diffs 7k is in the front and 2k is in the rear.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:32 AM
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What Alvin said.

Also, if you have an RX8 try using Push Control to give the motor a more free rolling feel when you let off the throttle.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:48 AM
  #9322  
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Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
Need some advice here...I have been running my losi with the 1415 motor and I'm having an issue with spinning out whenever I begin to go into a turn and i let off the throttle. It even does it at low speed. The only thing I've changed for setup from stock is my diff fluids when I installed the Chris pins. The diffs are 7-3-2.

I thought it might be the drag brake which was at 20% so I dialed that out but it is still driving like I have drag brake on. Could it be I just have a bad motor that I need to send back into Castle?

This is driving me crazy because I know it's a good truck but right now it is very squirrley to drive spinning out in every corner.

One other piece of info is if I keep on the throttle through a turn while hard to do it doesn't spin out.
I had the same problem. It was frustrating to the point where I almost didn't want to run the truck. But you could tell the truck is sooo good that it was just going to be a monster once that problem was fixed. I switched to a softer rear swaybar 1.8 (was running larger before, forget which it was), that helped, but still wasn't what I was looking for. So I tried to learn to drive with it by backing letting off throttle earlier rather braking hard. This helped a bit also, but I felt like I was giving up some time, but it's still faster than being on your lid. I still dealt with these issues for about 2-3 more weeks, but then everything just went away and I was finding myself able to drive it more aggressively like my 1/8th scale. I honestly think that as there became more slop in the truck due to normal wear, it became easier to drive. The Losi 8ight is notorious for being a better car with some slop in it and I think this truck may just be the same way. I'm not talking so much slop that stuff is breaking, but just worn in. Kinda like a cars engine needs to be broken in, I think these trucks need to be slightly broke in. Because I didn't really do anything and all of a sudden my truck was handling great out of no-where. Maybe switch to some softer springs and or sways in the rear and be patient. That's my experience anyway, anyone else have a similar experience as me?
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:53 AM
  #9323  
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Scott, I agree. I much rather the feel of a well broken in vehicle. My Kyosho MP9's definately feel better that way.
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:32 PM
  #9324  
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Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
I'll have to try dialing the brake out and see if that does the trick. b/c it acts like the drag brake is on even with it off. So that is probably the problem. Thanks I appreciate it.

For my diffs 7k is in the front and 2k is in the rear.
I use your motor/esc also...I don't use drag brake at all. I agree with 30-40% brake. I don't see why we need drag brake with these trucks. There is enough drag with the mod1 pinion and 4pole in itself.
Start power Low
Timing Low

These are my settings and I don't have issues with spinouts.
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:52 PM
  #9325  
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Originally Posted by mjealey View Post
Has any of you ran the Tekin RS Pro Esc and the 4.5t motor:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VSEARCH=tt2139

What pinion would you guys start off with on most outdoor tracks?

The SCTE doesn't come with a pinion you have to buy one right?
Don't do it!! it will fry. The RS ESC's aren't designed for 550 can motors or for the wt of the Losi......no heat sink or fan....RX8 is the way to go.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:02 PM
  #9326  
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Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
Need some advice here...I have been running my losi with the 1415 motor and I'm having an issue with spinning out whenever I begin to go into a turn and i let off the throttle. It even does it at low speed. The only thing I've changed for setup from stock is my diff fluids when I installed the Chris pins. The diffs are 7-3-2.

I thought it might be the drag brake which was at 20% so I dialed that out but it is still driving like I have drag brake on. Could it be I just have a bad motor that I need to send back into Castle?

This is driving me crazy because I know it's a good truck but right now it is very squirrley to drive spinning out in every corner.

One other piece of info is if I keep on the throttle through a turn while hard to do it doesn't spin out.
The very first thing I would do, is take all the shocks off, and make sure the arms pivot free on the hingepins. 99.9% of pre built vehicles...they do not move smoothly. They should flop freely when you turn the car upside down, then rightside up....should be zero friction essentially. If they don't, use a 3.5mm reamer on the arms. The captured rod ends also have a habit of biting on the balls a little too hard and can cause binding...I suggest the better losi 8ight 2.0 rod ends. they almost never bind. The set screws that snug up the swaybars may also be too tight. Back those out till there's slop in the swaybars and it wiggles around.

make sure the rear shock tower isn't bent forward. If it bends too far, it binds on the shock caps. If it's just bent a little, you will notice the body fitting kinda funny. If you run a stock rear tower, and a stock rear bumper....you will eventually bend the rear shock tower beyond functionality.....regardless of what the factory Losi guys try to tell you.

Make sure the shock nuts on the tower aren't too tight, and binding the shock tops. The shocks should wiggle some when you twist them. If the nuts are too tight, it will distort the plastic insert and bind.

Check to make sure you dont have a hex thats stripping out in the wheels, Ive seen that cause some very erradic handling before they completely go out.

After that, I'd check to make sure the diff's are functioning freely.

There shouldn't be any spinning out with this truck...if you can't enter a corner extremely aggressively, there's likely something wrong with the truck.

All the time, guys come to me saying their truck doesn't handle like our group of friends. Almost always, the difference can be attributed to poor maintenance and suspension that is binding somewhere. IT'S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL, that the suspension be free, or everything else you change is meaningless. A good rule of thumb is "SLOPPY IS FAST"
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:15 PM
  #9327  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I run LVC in NiMh mode but to be safe 3.0V per cell is not a bad idea if you run for long periods of time

Forward only mode
Timing high
Brake 80%
4% dead band
2.4ghz mode
Drag brake 0-4%
Minimum brake 12%

I think that is most of the settings. Going off memory here as I don't have the software on this computer.
Excellent...I think I'm at nearly identical settings.

I appreciate the info!
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:20 PM
  #9328  
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
The very first thing I would do, is take all the shocks off, and make sure the arms pivot free on the hingepins. 99.9% of pre built vehicles...they do not move smoothly. They should flop freely when you turn the car upside down, then rightside up....should be zero friction essentially. If they don't, use a 3.5mm reamer on the arms. The captured rod ends also have a habit of biting on the balls a little too hard and can cause binding...I suggest the better losi 8ight 2.0 rod ends. they almost never bind. The set screws that snug up the swaybars may also be too tight. Back those out till there's slop in the swaybars and it wiggles around.

make sure the rear shock tower isn't bent forward. If it bends too far, it binds on the shock caps. If it's just bent a little, you will notice the body fitting kinda funny. If you run a stock rear tower, and a stock rear bumper....you will eventually bend the rear shock tower beyond functionality.....regardless of what the factory Losi guys try to tell you.

Make sure the shock nuts on the tower aren't too tight, and binding the shock tops. The shocks should wiggle some when you twist them. If the nuts are too tight, it will distort the plastic insert and bind.

Check to make sure you dont have a hex thats stripping out in the wheels, Ive seen that cause some very erradic handling before they completely go out.

After that, I'd check to make sure the diff's are functioning freely.

There shouldn't be any spinning out with this truck...if you can't enter a corner extremely aggressively, there's likely something wrong with the truck.

All the time, guys come to me saying their truck doesn't handle like our group of friends. Almost always, the difference can be attributed to poor maintenance and suspension that is binding somewhere. IT'S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL, that the suspension be free, or everything else you change is meaningless. A good rule of thumb is "SLOPPY IS FAST"
thanks for the tips I appreciate it
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:42 PM
  #9329  
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Originally Posted by johnnyshore View Post
Excellent...I think I'm at nearly identical settings.

I appreciate the info!
I forgot an important one. Initial accelaration high!
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:43 PM
  #9330  
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what are you guys running for punch and timing on the sensorless 4 pole motors like the castle and the tenshock? I have a sc8 i have punch at like 8 and timing at about 7.
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