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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-12-2011, 07:36 AM
  #9301  
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heres my proline raptpr body on my scte (needed a lil rear wheel well trimming)



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here it is on top of the stock body...



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here my truck with the few upgrades, i wish i went carbon but oh well its my tank lol



can you guess what kind of beer i drink? lol a buddy of mine wasnt happy with the way my stock body turned out so he bought this body n painted it

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Old 05-12-2011, 07:52 AM
  #9302  
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^^^ Nice ride

If your wondering, there are tabs underneath the battery tray to make esc wire routing a little cleaner.
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:09 AM
  #9303  
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Originally Posted by SEF View Post
^^^ Nice ride

If your wondering, there are tabs underneath the battery tray to make esc wire routing a little cleaner.
I strongly recommend this. Last thing you want is a chewed esc wire.
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:25 AM
  #9304  
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interesting
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:49 AM
  #9305  
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Originally Posted by DHooter View Post
anyone????
Boost BAD!

Try just running it without any added timing or boost. These low turn motors do not respond to it like a higher turn motor would(17.5). They just get hotter.
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:51 AM
  #9306  
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i have a question about soldering on these motors....some brands you need to solder your wires on if you change your esc/or shorten your wires....regular solder wont hold up to the heat would it?
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:54 AM
  #9307  
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Originally Posted by 10sctrel0v3r View Post
i have a question about soldering on these motors....some brands you need to solder your wires on if you change your esc/or shorten your wires....regular solder wont hold up to the heat would it?
Most solders melt at way over 300 degree , if your motors wires are getting that hot then you have much bigger issues as to which solder to use . But a 60/40 solder will work fine .
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:58 AM
  #9308  
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Yeah normal 60/40 solder works great for R/C.

60/40 has a melting temp of ~361374 F and if you motor wires or anything else in your R/C car gets to these temps while running, your wires coming unsoldered is the least of your problems!
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:58 AM
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I found that the sensored setups take off more quickly. The non-sensored setups take a second or so to take off from a full stop. Unless you never crash or spin out you're losing time. I definitely need all the help I can get.

If you run a MMP or RX8 you can run in Smart Sense/Dual Mode. These use the sensor for low RPM and then turn it off after the truck gets rolling. It's the best of both worlds.



Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
I have run both and firmly believe sensored is a waste unless you are rock crawling.
The sensor only works at take off from a dead stop and it is a fact that sensored is less efficient.
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:59 AM
  #9310  
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Can anyone post their settings they are running on their Tekin RX8 in this truck with either a Castle or Neu motor. Just wanting to compare my settings. Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:00 AM
  #9311  
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lol thanks guys. now i can shorten these damn wires and keep them from flopping all over
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:31 AM
  #9312  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I feel the issue with putting the larger rotor in 5.5 and higher is you start running into gearing issues. With my 4.5 novak with the 14mm rotor I am geared up to 19-20/40 range. Depending on the speedo you may not be that high but you are 1-2 teeth higher gearing for each wind you go up so you get some pretty tall gears. The 5.5 and 6.5 should not have the heat issues of the 4.5's either and have a little more torque already in them so not sure if it is really necessary.
Hi Casper,

Can I ask what you're running for an ESC setup with your 10th scale Xcelorin esc/4.5 motor combo? I have basically the same setup (motor is a silver can HV 4.5 w/14mm rotor), and I'm most curious what your timing is set at on the ESC?

Pretty impressed with the combo so far...temps are around 120` on the motor, and 100` on the esc after a full pack in practice. I'm a bit under-geared (16/40), so I'll be bumping up to an 18/19 pinion.

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:40 AM
  #9313  
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how hard would it be to put a 8ight center diff in one of these trucks?
i cant find the diff housings anywhere, and i have a race this weekend.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:41 AM
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I run LVC in NiMh mode but to be safe 3.0V per cell is not a bad idea if you run for long periods of time

Forward only mode
Timing high
Brake 80%
4% dead band
2.4ghz mode
Drag brake 0-4%
Minimum brake 12%

I think that is most of the settings. Going off memory here as I don't have the software on this computer.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:03 AM
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Need some advice here...I have been running my losi with the 1415 motor and I'm having an issue with spinning out whenever I begin to go into a turn and i let off the throttle. It even does it at low speed. The only thing I've changed for setup from stock is my diff fluids when I installed the Chris pins. The diffs are 7-3-2.

I thought it might be the drag brake which was at 20% so I dialed that out but it is still driving like I have drag brake on. Could it be I just have a bad motor that I need to send back into Castle?

This is driving me crazy because I know it's a good truck but right now it is very squirrley to drive spinning out in every corner.

One other piece of info is if I keep on the throttle through a turn while hard to do it doesn't spin out.
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