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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-05-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
You talking about the pin at the CV joint next to the front case? We have seen this happen but it usually takes a while for it to wear through. Ryan is aware of the issue and working on it. My understanding it is considered a wear item as it usually takes a while to wear through if it does on a particular truck.
Casper, while rebuilding my truck for the JBRL this weekend and low and behold the front drive shaft came right out. The pin wore right through the hole. Lucky I was planning on changing it for wear on the other end anyways or it could have been bad Sat...
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Buster661 View Post
Casper, while rebuilding my truck for the JBRL this weekend and low and behold the front drive shaft came right out. The pin wore right through the hole. Lucky I was planning on changing it for wear on the other end anyways or it could have been bad Sat...
Are you guys talking about the pin into the cvd in the diff housing ? Or the pin that goes into the diff cup on the center diff?
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kotu100 View Post
anyone else have an issue with the front center shaft pin wearing out the holes and falling out.
ive had to replace mine twice so far and i dont even run it that much.

also, brought the timing to the lowest setting on my MMP and put the punch on low, gonna see what i get out of it for temps and run time today...
The pin in the CV joint. The pin will work its way through the plastic "cover" over time. Ryan has been working on getting a set screw to go into the coupler to hold the pin in place. The plastic cover would stay in place and become a secondary pin capture part in case the setscrew backs out. Not sure how far along that is though.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Get some real tools. I have not seen anyone have issues with the screws that use high quality tools. These are the same screws that are in the 8ight so there is nothing unique about the screw set on the Ten. Get some good wrenches from MIP/Thorp, hudy, Losi, EDS or similar. Spending $100 on some good tools is a way better solution that will last longer then spending $130 on titanium screw kit that will save a few grams and probably strip as well if your tools are not up to the challenge.
The weight savings was more than a few grams
And, I couldn't agree more, first get a really good tool set for your cars.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
The pin in the CV joint. The pin will work its way through the plastic "cover" over time. Ryan has been working on getting a set screw to go into the coupler to hold the pin in place. The plastic cover would stay in place and become a secondary pin capture part in case the setscrew backs out. Not sure how far along that is though.
If the pin is strong enough instead of a new part and design why not just release a after market 'pin keeper' set like what is available for the 8ights. It's just a steel cover with greese boots that makes sure the pin never backs out :P I've had a few DNF's to this over the years w/ my 8ights. This year I snagged one of the pin keeper sets off amain for my truggy, it's not backing out this year.
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Get some real tools. I have not seen anyone have issues with the screws that use high quality tools. These are the same screws that are in the 8ight so there is nothing unique about the screw set on the Ten. Get some good wrenches from MIP/Thorp, hudy, Losi, EDS or similar. Spending $100 on some good tools is a way better solution that will last longer then spending $130 on titanium screw kit that will save a few grams and probably strip as well if your tools are not up to the challenge.



Losi wheels are best. I would probably go with DE next. The Prolines work in a pinch but the wheel webbing will rub on the arms at rull lock.




No the SCTE already has really thin hexes and zero offset wheels to keep it legal. If you have an offset wheel there is nothing you can do to make them work.
It's the screws....telling me to get good tools....please man. Been a mechanic for 30yrs...all I have is good tools. Half the damn things are stripped before a "tool" gets on them. "good tools".....damn that pisses me off.
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
It's the screws....telling me to get good tools....please man. Been a mechanic for 30yrs...all I have is good tools. Half the damn things are stripped before a "tool" gets on them. "good tools".....damn that pisses me off.
Better to be pissed off than pissed on ! Some guys try to work on R/C's with standard L wrenches and complain when screws start stripping . With 1/16 heads a precision ground , hardened hex head is a MUST have IMO .
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:54 AM
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I used the $29 set of integy tools and haven't stripped them yet on the heads. On a side note while taking the inner diffs apart with the gears on them, 4 screws I was using the wrong wrench the metric one is so close to
the 1/16th I believe . I could see that causing some to strip Other than I know I will replace some of my button heads with socket heads. I just prefer socket heads.

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Old 05-05-2011, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Get some real tools. I have not seen anyone have issues with the screws that use high quality tools. These are the same screws that are in the 8ight so there is nothing unique about the screw set on the Ten. Get some good wrenches from MIP/Thorp, hudy, Losi, EDS or similar. Spending $100 on some good tools is a way better solution that will last longer then spending $130 on titanium screw kit that will save a few grams and probably strip as well if your tools are not up to the challenge.
Have you ever weighed a complete steel screw set? Now divide that in half and thats your weight savings with Ti. I think you will be surprised at how much the actual savings are, on any kit. It's multiple ounces, not a few grams....

I use high quality tools. I have also had kits from every major brand. Losi screws are the poorest quality screws I have dealt with, besides the old fashioned Kyosho "wood" screws. Sorry, but that is my honest assessment. There's no way they are grade 8 or higher, which is what I would consider "hobby" grade.

You are right though, the Ti screws WILL strip out....easier than a high grade steel screw. But I don't think the Losi screws are very high grade to compare them to.
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:46 AM
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i weighed my truck the other day, RTR....im running the MMP with the Castle 1410, AE DS 1015 servo, 2S lipo.....6.2 lbs.....doesn't seem that heavy to me...

my 2wd SC10 is 5 lbs, so in comparison its a beast, but maybe a little weight helps...especially in a class famous for rubbing fenders. cant hurt to be a 400 lb lineman...
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jurquhart View Post
I'm in VA so it's a little warmer but nothing like surfing in CA. Would be quite the welcome trip. Plus get to see all the RC tracks in SOCAL. Let me pack my Losi and my surfboard
Yup come on out !The amount of tracks here is really crazy ,some excellent indoor aswell as nice outdoor tracks.If your lucky like me or(unlucky) the unemployment check pays for Surfing and R/C car racing!It just doesn't stretch too far with the girls in bikinis ..Gotta keep the priorities strait LOL
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Man you guys are mean.

Weather for Seattle, WA 98126
53F | C
Ya I know, sorry couldn't help it!
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:18 PM
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so i called horizon originally , then i did the email thing to get pins. got the 1 set the other day and today i got a second set, they even sent them priority which was 21$ good on yah losi and thanks alot.
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dynodan22 View Post
I used the $29 set of integy tools and haven't stripped them yet on the heads. On a side note while taking the inner diffs apart with the gears on them, 4 screws I was using the wrong wrench the metric one is so close to
the 1/16th I believe . I could see that causing some to strip Other than I know I will replace some of my button heads with socket heads. I just prefer socket heads.

Dynodan22
Traxxas along with other brands make a 2.5mm x 10mm screw that is a direct replacement for the 4 diff screws. They use a larger 5/64 hex driver and will not stip out like the 1/16 screws that come with the truck
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:24 PM
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I added a link to Tony's screw kit for the SCTe on the first page. While they are not Ti, their is other options for screws. 45 bux isn't bad for the entire truck.

I also agree you need to spring for some good tool (for those who don't). Bite the bullet it will help save you some headache. I have not had any issues with the screws. The only screw that hates me in the front king pin screws that thread into the sprindles (into the a-arm (and why I want aluminum ones like the 8ight)). Those funkers are always loose.
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