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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-02-2011, 10:03 PM
  #8386  
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Originally Posted by fastpineapple View Post
yeah i have the same problem im going to try some radio settings. What is the battery tray idea?? If its moving the battery so it is mounted to the rear and still nose dives. Ive got two weeks till I can make it back to the track so Ive got some time to figure things out.
Mine did the same thing. Messed with radio setting and still nosed dived. Put a 1410 in it and whole new truck now. Im loving this thing.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
There is not a gear wear issue. Some had issues where the gears wore because of the bad pins. Those that replaced the pins at new, most all are doing fine with them. Just change the pins and you should be good to go for a long long time.
Gotcha!
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:26 PM
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how long is the wait for the new pins, i sent in my request form about 2 weeks ago
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DHooter View Post
how long is the wait for the new pins, i sent in my request form about 2 weeks ago
Should get them anytime, I got mine last week.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:59 PM
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You guys that are having nose diving problems should look at your rear ride height. If you are running less than 30mm the rear of the chassis can slap on the face of the jump and kick up causing this problem. When R. Bryant went to the 1410 it took weight off the rear and that's probably what solved the problem for him.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:28 AM
  #8391  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
Dang my truck jumps nose up everytime!!! weird..And some I have seen jump nose down? Dont get it.
I run RX8 and Tekin5.5 maybe they are heavy enough to fly it nose up?
i think its just that you never ever let off the throttle into wall---full throttle, miised the corner...oops--full throttle, Wheel barrow tours-----oops full throttle!
Jus kiddin. thanks for the heads up tonight Riv.....
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:29 AM
  #8392  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
Any tips by chance with MMP and 1415? Mine does same thing...granted it could be just me and my crappy driving sometimes.

edit....sorry just saw battery tray idea
Originally Posted by b121774 View Post
I raced at a large 1/8th scale track last week and I could NOT KEEP IT FROM NOSE DIVING!!!. I had to keep it held at full throttle the entire jump till it landed on almost all jumps. If I didn't do it perfect each time it would come down on its nose or lid. Running an rx8/novak 4.5 with 14mm rotor geared at 15t pinion, battery back with 5/5/3 fluids. Any ideas?
Also note it's a 4wd vehicle.. you have the ability to adjust flight in mid air.. it's not 2wd. Give it throttle and the front will come up, give it brake and the front will come down. I've found most diving is due to drag, that is why everyone is saying push control w/ the rx8 and as I've noted several times moving the throttle a little forward to almost rolling will do this to (go back and read for more details). With all that said neither is needed to control this truck on the track or in the air, a good throttle finger is all you need. Also keep in mind you want a pretty even speed going into the jumps, you don't want to be coming off throttle or applying brakes unless you are trying to pitch the nose down on purpose. This does take a litttle practice but it is also very easy. As others noted if you got a little to low on rear ride height you could be slapping chassis, but this is pretty noticable if you are paying attention. Don't be shy about trying different battery positions if you want to change the feel a little, heck I run my lipo verticle and love it.



I've got to be honest I use to race a e-revo years ago and it makes this truck feel easy, that revo would love to nose dive wicked if you hit a jump wrong or carried your speed wrong into and over a jump I guess is more accurate.
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:34 AM
  #8393  
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
You guys that are having nose diving problems should look at your rear ride height. If you are running less than 30mm the rear of the chassis can slap on the face of the jump and kick up causing this problem. When R. Bryant went to the 1410 it took weight off the rear and that's probably what solved the problem for him.
I'm running that motor and I actually have my battery all the way forward and no nose diving for me. This truck jumps so much better than my SCRT10 did. But even with that truck, it was just driving technique and setup. And setup didn't mean moving as much weight back as possible. Just changing springs and shock oils took care of it.

You guys asking about changing shocks and motor mounting positions, etc. before you even drive it. Your option obviously, but why not try the truck with the stock equipment. The stock shocks and stock setups work. If you're new to 4x4 SC trucks, they have to be driven completely different from 2wd and even buggies.

Guys, the team races without putting 1/8 scale shocks on, without doing crazy things to the chassis to move the motor back and yet somehow they are way faster than most of us. Doesn't that tell you that the setups they provide ought to work? They do for me. I just don't understand why you all want to spend money putting parts on the car that weren't designed for it. Are too heavy or change the geometry or weight bias of the truck. Just set it up, maintain it and learn to drive it.

OK, flame away now!
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
I'm running that motor and I actually have my battery all the way forward and no nose diving for me. This truck jumps so much better than my SCRT10 did. But even with that truck, it was just driving technique and setup. And setup didn't mean moving as much weight back as possible. Just changing springs and shock oils took care of it.

You guys asking about changing shocks and motor mounting positions, etc. before you even drive it. Your option obviously, but why not try the truck with the stock equipment. The stock shocks and stock setups work. If you're new to 4x4 SC trucks, they have to be driven completely different from 2wd and even buggies.

Guys, the team races without putting 1/8 scale shocks on, without doing crazy things to the chassis to move the motor back and yet somehow they are way faster than most of us. Doesn't that tell you that the setups they provide ought to work? They do for me. I just don't understand why you all want to spend money putting parts on the car that weren't designed for it. Are too heavy or change the geometry or weight bias of the truck. Just set it up, maintain it and learn to drive it.

OK, flame away now!

+1 I dont get it either , guys were the same way with the Hyper10SC also .
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:58 AM
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Yeah, driving a 4wd is a whole different ball game from 2wd...

I have been running 2wd and found that throttle control is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT when jumping a 4wd... I learned this real quick!

Usually you need to be accelerating on the face of the jump... slowly reduce throttle in the air... usually keeping slight throttle on... let off or tap the brakes if you need to bring the nose down..

If the truck is topped out speedwise I guarantee you will be nose down or doing front cartwheels...

Watch closely for the back of the chassis slapping the jump too...

I recommend even if there is a particular jump that you are having issues with to have someone (or yourself) walk out to the jump and keep practicing the same jump up close to see how the truck is reacting and if you are having chassis slapping issues...

Also try letting off the throttle right before you approach the jump and get back on the throttle on the jump face... you can land it right on the back bumper of you want......

This truck jumps GREAT!!
Hope this helps!!!
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:13 AM
  #8396  
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
I'm running that motor and I actually have my battery all the way forward and no nose diving for me. This truck jumps so much better than my SCRT10 did. But even with that truck, it was just driving technique and setup. And setup didn't mean moving as much weight back as possible. Just changing springs and shock oils took care of it.

You guys asking about changing shocks and motor mounting positions, etc. before you even drive it. Your option obviously, but why not try the truck with the stock equipment. The stock shocks and stock setups work. If you're new to 4x4 SC trucks, they have to be driven completely different from 2wd and even buggies.

Guys, the team races without putting 1/8 scale shocks on, without doing crazy things to the chassis to move the motor back and yet somehow they are way faster than most of us. Doesn't that tell you that the setups they provide ought to work? They do for me. I just don't understand why you all want to spend money putting parts on the car that weren't designed for it. Are too heavy or change the geometry or weight bias of the truck. Just set it up, maintain it and learn to drive it.

OK, flame away now!
HAHAHAHAAHAH No flaming here +1
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:19 AM
  #8397  
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Ya, I'm thinking its the rear suspension setup. It started doing the nose diving when I put the 14mm rotor in but I forgot I softened everything up as well with lighter springs and oil for a rough track I was running on. Thanks guys for all the input.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:42 AM
  #8398  
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Changing the rebound in my truck made a bid difference on how much it would nose dive too. If I built my rear shocks with any more than 3/8 of the shaft out it would do it almost uncontrollably. YOU can add some to the front to get the front to spring up off the face of the jump too.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:54 AM
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Maybe its just because these things tend to produce so much heat in some of the motors that we have them geared so low that they are topped out speed wise when the hit the jumps that there is no more wheel speed to be had to keep the nose up in the air.
It requires an increase in wheel speed to lift the front and if its topped out cuz its geared so low that could be one reason.
It might be interesting to see if an extra tooth or two fixes the nose down problem but at the expense of more heat.
maybe thats why the 1410 works better. it is lighter but that weight loss is from the back not the front.
just my 2cents.
i have the tekin 5,5 in mine and have not had a problem with the nose diving and no push on mine.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
I'm running that motor and I actually have my battery all the way forward and no nose diving for me. This truck jumps so much better than my SCRT10 did. But even with that truck, it was just driving technique and setup. And setup didn't mean moving as much weight back as possible. Just changing springs and shock oils took care of it.

You guys asking about changing shocks and motor mounting positions, etc. before you even drive it. Your option obviously, but why not try the truck with the stock equipment. The stock shocks and stock setups work. If you're new to 4x4 SC trucks, they have to be driven completely different from 2wd and even buggies.

Guys, the team races without putting 1/8 scale shocks on, without doing crazy things to the chassis to move the motor back and yet somehow they are way faster than most of us. Doesn't that tell you that the setups they provide ought to work? They do for me. I just don't understand why you all want to spend money putting parts on the car that weren't designed for it. Are too heavy or change the geometry or weight bias of the truck. Just set it up, maintain it and learn to drive it.

OK, flame away now!

I'm almost 30 years deep in this sport. I can drive it. However, the changes I made did happen after I drove the truck, researched the truck, weighed the truck, balanced the truck, etc, etc, etc... Making it better is what I do. The top drivers you mention could drive anything fast, including the box it came in. Average joe drivers need all the help they can get. The better the truck is, the easier it is to drive, the faster they go. Simple as that. Everything I am offering is designed for the truck. The parts are designed to improve and convert the platform to a purpose built vehicle. Purposely designed to have a 2s lipo and a motor hanging off the opposite of where the motor was designed to be placed. Make no mistake, the platform was designed for nitro engines and was never re-engineered for a brushless platform. Simply put, if your good enough to be paid to drive, then your good enough to make an ill engineered vehicle look good. I am just trying to level the playing field.
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