KingdomRacer

iTrader: (5)

The OFNA fix IMO is the better way to rebuild these diffs.
On another note, my TBR f/r bumpers came and these things are beefy just like I expected from TBR.
Front

Rear

dynodan22

iTrader: (9)

Whats the weight difference between those bumpers and Losi bumpers? I wonder about some of you guys and what condition the trucks are run in 1/8 track size that your casing the jumpos or what. I mean I took this truck and hit an 8" I beam head on full speed . I definetily though I broke something . Man I was amazed on how it just kept on going. I am new 4wd driver so some of the drive techniques compared to 2wd I had to erase from my mind. Other than the gear issues I had no problem with this truck

Dynodan22

Chuck 21

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, thats what I thought you had said....

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

Yes sir! 1st truck (black front, oragne rear) is on 3S... CC 1415 with a 13T pinion.

+ YouTube Video

Got it, and I tested the link... seemed to work. Thanks for the heads up and more info 8ight!!

larlev

iTrader: (4)

Have another question for you guys...

I lowered the camber link on the front shock tower. Should this affect the alignment of the truck? It tracks widely to the left now. It was perfect before. Turnbuckles are same measurement on both sides.

Also is JR servo horn size the same as the Savox?

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Hard to say,I ran my truck hard for two months with the stock pins and only the rear were severely worn .I made new rears and when I pulled apart them on Sat the og front and center could still be run and the rears I made looked perfect.The center and front did show ware but could have gone on for more racing.My gears and shims and alum blocks on the rear were still fine even tho the pins were shot! I have all new Losi pins in and all is fine .My friend RuusP ran his truck a few times with the og pins before going to Chris pins and tore up the side gears? So its Losi roulette on the gears for some folks but not me

KingdomRacer

iTrader: (5)

I'm running 3s @ the 1/8 scale track and 2s @ the 1/10 scale track so after weighing the differences, I might keep the stock bumpers on for when I'm running 2s and throw the TBR bumpers when I'm running 3s. Time will tell.
The weights in the pics are with LunsfordRacing screws and Dynamite aluminum locknuts because I only use titanium and aluminum hardware on my racers

chiro972

iTrader: (10)

When you change something like a camber link position, you will almost always have to change the length. Do you have a camber gauge? It really comes in handy. If your camber changed a fair bit, that could affect steering as well.

KingdomRacer

iTrader: (5)

I chose not to use the optional rear brace that's included and if it becomes a problem I will fab something other than the brace that still uses part of the stock rear bumper.
Here they are mounted
Front


Rear

chiro972

iTrader: (10)

RACETEK,

I was looking through your pics since you posted a link to your photobucket album and I saw that with the ofna/kyosho diff setup that you came up with the spider gears (?) don't make contact with as much of the sun gear as the stock setup. Won't that cause the sun gears to wear prematurely?

Not saying it will but it was just something I noticed in the pic. If not then if I ever notice the little washer and square spacer are grinding themselves into my gears I'll switch to your method. I just want to make sure I'm not trading one problem for another.

larlev

iTrader: (4)

Gotcha....I thought the shock tower position didnt affect the actual setting that much. It looks like the camber turnbuckle pivots at the wheel.
I have noticed there is quite a bit of slop in the wheels...both in toe and camber.

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Yup it could change alot ,if you dont have a camber gage use a soda can on a flat surface!And we are assuming you have your steering trim adjusted right.

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Also be sure and keep an eye on your wheel nuts they loosen quite easy and will throw everything off! Upgrade to the Traxxas ones which are serrated for the Slash 4x4 ,they dont move

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Another great vid Fork Thanx .Love the slow mo ..If you watch it with your controller in hand you can pretend your (i`m) driving....

chiro972

iTrader: (10)

Typical Losi slop. I say that not as a dig against Losi. Their 1/8 scale develops slop pretty early but the vehicles seem to drive just as well if not better with the slop.

Many people have reported that they buy all new plastics to take out the slop and as soon as they do their car handles like garbage until the parts settle in and get some slop.

In other words, don't worry about a bit of slop, just reset your camber and steering and don't forget to look at your toe in/out. It could also be affected.

A side note, several years ago the fastest guy in my area ran kyosho 1/8 scales. He was blistering fast and when I was looking at his buggy there was incredible amounts of slop in the wheels. Didn't seem to slow him down a bit. In real cars, all those pivot points ride on bearings so the tolerances can be very tight. In RC, if you make the tolerances too tight, nothing will move.