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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 04-05-2011, 10:03 AM
  #5776  
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Originally Posted by bparanoid View Post
Speaking of Pins, I just received my Chris pins yesterday and I noticed that the notch cut out of Chris's pins are larger than the originals.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_k.../s912/pins.jpg


I'm just wondering if everyone else's is the same and if it will affect performance at all.

FYI: The pin on the top is the original pin from my converted Ten-T that I ran all last season. Looks a LOT better than the SCTE pins after a few runs.

A wider notch shouldnt affect performance. What you dont want are notches that are too narrow (pins will not fit together) or notches less than half the thickness of the pin itself (if so, the pins wont fit correctly in the diff). Too wide and it just gives more space for the pins to slide into each other. Also, deeper than 1/2 would not be a worry either, unless it was extreme to the point where the pin material was too skinny and it could bend/break. Just a few percent over the OEM dimensions should not be a problem.
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RCJammer View Post
A wider notch shouldnt affect performance. What you dont want are notches that are too narrow (pins will not fit together) or notches less than half the thickness of the pin itself (if so, the pins wont fit correctly in the diff). Too wide and it just gives more space for the pins to slide into each other. Also, deeper than 1/2 would not be a worry either, unless it was extreme to the point where the pin material was too skinny and it could bend/break. Just a few percent over the OEM dimensions should not be a problem.
+1

Chris pins FTW.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:15 AM
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Any word on when trucks will be shipping again? I don't see them in stock anywhere. Also, will the new kits be updated with new diff pins? Thanks.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post

The pins Chris sells are a little more precise in OD, so the spiders fit on them with less play and make for a smoother diff IMO so it's worth the upgrade...likely even over whatever Losi has as a "final" pin.
+1 +1 +1 I received my Chrispins and I gotta say, they look and feel great. I did one diff last night so tonight I'll do the remaining diffs.

The grease Losi put in there was what took me the longest to clean out. That stuff was so damn thick. They must have put too much since it came out of the diff and was all over the gear box. What a mess!!! I replaced the little gaskets, just in case.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:22 AM
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Good to know, thanks.





Originally Posted by RCJammer View Post
A wider notch shouldnt affect performance. What you dont want are notches that are too narrow (pins will not fit together) or notches less than half the thickness of the pin itself (if so, the pins wont fit correctly in the diff). Too wide and it just gives more space for the pins to slide into each other. Also, deeper than 1/2 would not be a worry either, unless it was extreme to the point where the pin material was too skinny and it could bend/break. Just a few percent over the OEM dimensions should not be a problem.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by LRPO View Post
yeah I got mine last week also. FROM CHRIS!
me too!!

got tired of waiting
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:03 PM
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oh yeah what does the weird numbers stand for on the neu motors, does anybody know off hand?
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzz3 View Post
Great work salad!! Losi oughta sponser you for your work.

Just to let you know, I have to do some more checking but if the hobbyking charger is adding correctly I am putting as much as 7100 into these 6000 nanotechs and that's running to cutoff. No heat at the end of the charge at 6 amps either. I am suspect of it but that's what its telling me. What have you found with yours?
I never run the packs to LVC, I haven't the 6000mah one. The 5000's are 3S and Rage has been using them, I used them once so I can't tell how much mah's get stuffed back in. He might post up about that. For the price I think they are perfect for the average joe like me.

Originally Posted by chiro972 View Post
You want the length of the stock turnbuckles? If so, I can measure mine this afternoon and post it. I already replaced them with the titanium ones for the 8ight.
Yes please, if you can that would be a huge help. Thanks Chiro!
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by wcrase101 View Post
oh yeah what does the weird numbers stand for on the neu motors, does anybody know off hand?
I am thinking you mean 1Y, 1.5Y, 2Y or 1D, 1.5D, 2D
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
I am thinking you mean 1Y, 1.5Y, 2Y or 1D, 1.5D, 2D
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
yes sir, thank you very much.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
I am thinking you mean 1Y, 1.5Y, 2Y or 1D, 1.5D, 2D
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
Thanks KR, good info... I added a link to your post (on the front page), I know that question will pop up again.
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Thanks KR, good info... I added a link to your post (on the front page), I know that question will pop up again.
I'm not the compliment type but when it's due... it's due.
That is by far the best first page there is period!
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:34 PM
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NEU MOTOR CHART

http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...rs/nm1500.html
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:34 PM
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Just ordered a new Neu yesterday to replace my new Tekin. I got the 1512 1y to run on 3s. The number in front of the y or d is not nearly as significant and the fact that y is much more efficient than the d wind. When picking out a Neu motor first you need to decide what cell count battery you are gonna run. I would suggest 2400 to 3600kv for a 3s setup and 3400 to 5000kv for a 2s setup. Whenever choosing you should pick the y wind in that range if possible. The d wind is not bad but the y wind is ideal for offroad racing. I personally have run both winds and the d wind is harder on lipos. This can be offset by going up on the mah in the lipo.
I know that the 1512 1y will be overkill but that is what I like. A friend ran his Neu 1509 1y(3600kv) last saturday on 3s and it is a BEAST! He Losi came off the track after a 6min qualifier at 126degrees and had 65% left in his 5000mah Turnigy lipos.
Also, we only run smooth can Neu's. Finned is not necessary if you cant get them. Best price I found on the smooth cans are at www.offshoreelectrics.com
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
I'm not the compliment type but when it's due... it's due.
That is by far the best first page there is period!
Agreed!
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