9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
04-05-2011, 10:03 AM
#5776
Originally Posted by bparanoid
Speaking of Pins, I just received my Chris pins yesterday and I noticed that the notch cut out of Chris's pins are larger than the originals.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_k.../s912/pins.jpg
I'm just wondering if everyone else's is the same and if it will affect performance at all.
FYI: The pin on the top is the original pin from my converted Ten-T that I ran all last season. Looks a LOT better than the SCTE pins after a few runs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_k.../s912/pins.jpg
I'm just wondering if everyone else's is the same and if it will affect performance at all.
FYI: The pin on the top is the original pin from my converted Ten-T that I ran all last season. Looks a LOT better than the SCTE pins after a few runs.
A wider notch shouldnt affect performance. What you dont want are notches that are too narrow (pins will not fit together) or notches less than half the thickness of the pin itself (if so, the pins wont fit correctly in the diff). Too wide and it just gives more space for the pins to slide into each other. Also, deeper than 1/2 would not be a worry either, unless it was extreme to the point where the pin material was too skinny and it could bend/break. Just a few percent over the OEM dimensions should not be a problem.
04-05-2011, 10:25 AM
#5777
Originally Posted by RCJammer
A wider notch shouldnt affect performance. What you dont want are notches that are too narrow (pins will not fit together) or notches less than half the thickness of the pin itself (if so, the pins wont fit correctly in the diff). Too wide and it just gives more space for the pins to slide into each other. Also, deeper than 1/2 would not be a worry either, unless it was extreme to the point where the pin material was too skinny and it could bend/break. Just a few percent over the OEM dimensions should not be a problem.
Chris pins FTW.
04-05-2011, 11:19 AM
#5779
Originally Posted by Ridley
The pins Chris sells are a little more precise in OD, so the spiders fit on them with less play and make for a smoother diff IMO so it's worth the upgrade...likely even over whatever Losi has as a "final" pin.
The grease Losi put in there was what took me the longest to clean out. That stuff was so damn thick. They must have put too much since it came out of the diff and was all over the gear box. What a mess!!! I replaced the little gaskets, just in case.
04-05-2011, 11:22 AM
#5780
Good to know, thanks.
Originally Posted by RCJammer
A wider notch shouldnt affect performance. What you dont want are notches that are too narrow (pins will not fit together) or notches less than half the thickness of the pin itself (if so, the pins wont fit correctly in the diff). Too wide and it just gives more space for the pins to slide into each other. Also, deeper than 1/2 would not be a worry either, unless it was extreme to the point where the pin material was too skinny and it could bend/break. Just a few percent over the OEM dimensions should not be a problem.
04-05-2011, 11:56 AM
#5781
Originally Posted by LRPO
yeah I got mine last week also. FROM CHRIS! 
got tired of waiting
04-05-2011, 12:03 PM
#5782
oh yeah what does the weird numbers stand for on the neu motors, does anybody know off hand?
04-05-2011, 12:09 PM
#5783
Originally Posted by Buzz3
Great work salad!! Losi oughta sponser you for your work. 
Just to let you know, I have to do some more checking but if the hobbyking charger is adding correctly I am putting as much as 7100 into these 6000 nanotechs and that's running to cutoff. No heat at the end of the charge at 6 amps either. I am suspect of it but that's what its telling me. What have you found with yours?
Just to let you know, I have to do some more checking but if the hobbyking charger is adding correctly I am putting as much as 7100 into these 6000 nanotechs and that's running to cutoff. No heat at the end of the charge at 6 amps either. I am suspect of it but that's what its telling me. What have you found with yours?
Originally Posted by chiro972
You want the length of the stock turnbuckles? If so, I can measure mine this afternoon and post it. I already replaced them with the titanium ones for the 8ight.
04-05-2011, 12:36 PM
#5784
Originally Posted by wcrase101
oh yeah what does the weird numbers stand for on the neu motors, does anybody know off hand?
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
04-05-2011, 12:44 PM
#5785
Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
I am thinking you mean 1Y, 1.5Y, 2Y or 1D, 1.5D, 2D
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
04-05-2011, 12:47 PM
#5786
Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
I am thinking you mean 1Y, 1.5Y, 2Y or 1D, 1.5D, 2D
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
The Y stands for a Wye wind motor and the D stands for a Delta wind motor.
As for the 1.5 or 2 it is in relation to the amount of kv for a particular motor in that series.
Also, keep in mind that the larger the number the less amps it actually takes.
So a 1Y or 1D would consume a lot more power than a 1.5Y or 1.5D
Another thing that corresponds to the numbers as they get bigger is the ability to go higher in voltage.
So again a 1Y or 1D would take a lower voltage at max than a 1.5Y or 1.5D being able to take higher voltages at max and so on 2Y or 2D.
The D (delta) wind motors do not handle timing adjustments as well as a Y wind motor, usually you wouldn't set an esc for a D-wind motor with timing higher than normal.
But lower winds do come with more resistance which determines how much actual power you are able to put down which can be seen through RPM's.
The F or H which is also seen on Neu Motors is when a can is finned = F
Or when it has a either an attached gearbox or internal cooling fans = H (usually for helis and planes)
I personally always like a 1.5Y anything, it can handle a lot more voltage and the resistance isn't as bad as a 2Y and I can add timing without worries of performance and it gets longer runtimes because of the lower current draw.
04-05-2011, 01:25 PM
#5787
Originally Posted by SaladFork
Thanks KR, good info... I added a link to your post (on the front page), I know that question will pop up again.
That is by far the best first page there is period!
04-05-2011, 01:34 PM
#5789
Just ordered a new Neu yesterday to replace my new Tekin. I got the 1512 1y to run on 3s. The number in front of the y or d is not nearly as significant and the fact that y is much more efficient than the d wind. When picking out a Neu motor first you need to decide what cell count battery you are gonna run. I would suggest 2400 to 3600kv for a 3s setup and 3400 to 5000kv for a 2s setup. Whenever choosing you should pick the y wind in that range if possible. The d wind is not bad but the y wind is ideal for offroad racing. I personally have run both winds and the d wind is harder on lipos. This can be offset by going up on the mah in the lipo.
I know that the 1512 1y will be overkill but that is what I like. A friend ran his Neu 1509 1y(3600kv) last saturday on 3s and it is a BEAST! He Losi came off the track after a 6min qualifier at 126degrees and had 65% left in his 5000mah Turnigy lipos.
Also, we only run smooth can Neu's. Finned is not necessary if you cant get them. Best price I found on the smooth cans are at www.offshoreelectrics.com
I know that the 1512 1y will be overkill but that is what I like. A friend ran his Neu 1509 1y(3600kv) last saturday on 3s and it is a BEAST! He Losi came off the track after a 6min qualifier at 126degrees and had 65% left in his 5000mah Turnigy lipos.
Also, we only run smooth can Neu's. Finned is not necessary if you cant get them. Best price I found on the smooth cans are at www.offshoreelectrics.com
04-05-2011, 01:35 PM
#5790
Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
I'm not the compliment type but when it's due... it's due.
That is by far the best first page there is period!
That is by far the best first page there is period!
