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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 04-04-2011, 02:55 PM
  #5716  
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Originally Posted by fireflysti View Post
Yeah, I had the motor too close to the out drive and it rubbed a little, but that was weeks ago and I fixed that. Same crack is also on the front drive shaft and that one wasn't rubbing anything.
Thats the first time I have seent hem cracked like that. These driveshafts are strong and I havent had a problem with them at all. Give Losi support a call as I have some sitting here I can send you as replacements.
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:01 PM
  #5717  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Thats the first time I have seent hem cracked like that. These driveshafts are strong and I havent had a problem with them at all. Give Losi support a call as I have some sitting here I can send you as replacements.
No worries, I already got the replacements on order and coming, just wanted you guys to now. I'll do a tear down and make sure nothing else is causing this before I install the new ones.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:07 PM
  #5718  
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What motor is that FF?
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
What motor is that FF?
Neu 1509 1.5d

http://neumotors.com/Site/1500_series.html
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
It's really not a bid deal, but I was just saying stock nitro the outputs and inputs are even w/ the econversion and 40t it adds 2.5mm of additional angle from the f/r diff outputs to the center diff (not a biggy), to get a 42+ spur in you need 2+more mm making the total now 4.5 to 5mm off (ok getting there). I would think with any system with a perfectly lined up center diff to the front and rear outputs would create less resistance than being off axis but I could be wrong? I agree most won't feel a difference with 2mm of COG difference, but then again many claimed to be able to feel it w/ the tekno conversions as they lower their batteries down into the chassis a few mm (not a bad idea for a future light wieght chassis design). Anyway done on this
This is not so, the 42 tooth spur gear fits in with no extra shimming whatsoever, just the shims that are already there in the kit.
I have cut mine down and I'm only using the part that goes under the CD as for the motor mine has a real LCG because it's mounted directly to the chassis with a TEKNO 36mm motor mount.
Another thing that is a benefit with the larger spur is more low end torque.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
What motor is that FF?
Neu 1.5D 4500kv
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
This is not so, the 42 tooth spur gear fits in with no extra shimming whatsoever.I have cut mine down and I'm only using the part that goes under the CD as for the motor mine has a real LCG because it's mounted directly to the chassis with a TEKNO 36mm motor mount.

8ight-e is sticking to his story, he believes his story and he's sticking to
it....LOL"
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:27 PM
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[QUOTE=alvinsmith75;8911719]Here is another thing to check if your truck feels bound up. Mine was yesterday. After 8 packs I noticed the droop screws had been screwing in on their own while driving which took away ride height and all droop. Hahaha. No biggie, just remove screws and add loctite and you'll be good to go.[/QUOTE// Also remove the shock boots ,it will free up the truck alot!
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:28 PM
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I am only posting up what I know through what I have done.
I will say though with the design of the 8ight platform it's kind of silly to worry about angles in the drivetrain when the front center drive shaft is at an angle like no other kit on the market as of yet, LOL
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
This is not so, the 42 tooth spur gear fits in with no extra shimming whatsoever, just the shims that are already there in the kit.
I have cut mine down and I'm only using the part that goes under the CD as for the motor mine has a real LCG because it's mounted directly to the chassis with a TEKNO 36mm motor mount.
Another thing that is a benefit with the larger spur is more low end torque.
I think he was confused about having to shim the diff up, the plate under the diffs on the production truck already raises the diff 2.5mm's as S/X mentioned. You could get away with 2mm so it would be .5mm's lower removing the stock shim and using 2mm spacers. It's all good, it's easy to get mixed up.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
This is not so, the 42 tooth spur gear fits in with no extra shimming whatsoever, just the shims that are already there in the kit.
I have cut mine down and I'm only using the part that goes under the CD as for the motor mine has a real LCG because it's mounted directly to the chassis with a TEKNO 36mm motor mount.
Another thing that is a benefit with the larger spur is more low end torque.
Originally Posted by Chuck 21 View Post
8ight-e is sticking to his story, he believes his story and he's sticking to
it....LOL"
First off torque with brushless motors are more a function of your battery than any gearing you could ever throw at it.. so don't go there. These are not brushed motors 2 teeth on a spur will do nothing for torque or effeciency in fact effective torque will go up as you gear up (smaller spur, larger pinion) as long as your temps are not going over max and your lipo can handle the load. Now that we have that out of the way you can understand why all this work to get any different spurs for effeciency that isn't there is all a load when dealing with brushless systems and lipo's. You will only reduce temps and increase run time by gearing down (raising total ratio) so if you increase a spur or reduce your pinion you will reduce your top speed, increase run time and normally reduce motor temps on most tracks. I say normally because yo can go too low and this will result in creating heat as well. This is my story I'm sticking to it because it's right. I will say if your motor is too close to your center diff like the other guy a change in spurs could be helpful on that aspect but trust me I've geared all sorts of different combos to get the same ratio and with a brushless motor and lipo you don't feel any difference unless the ratio is different.

Last edited by 8ight-e; 04-04-2011 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
First off torque with brushless motors are more a function of your battery than any gearing you could ever throw at it.. so don't go there. These are not brushed motors 2 teeth on a spur will do nothing for torque or effeciency in fact effective torque will go up as you gear up (smaller spur, larger pinion) as long as your temps are not going over max and your lipo can handle the load. Now that we have that out of the way you can understand why all this work to get any different spurs for effeciency that isn't there is all a load when dealing with brushless systems and lipo's. You will only reduce temps and run time by gearing down so if you increase a spur or reduce your pinion you will reduce your top speed, increase run time and normally reduce motor temps on most tracks. I say normally because yo can go too low and this will result in creating heat as well. This is my story I'm sticking to it because it's right.
I love a guy who sticks to his story no matter what" LOL"
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:48 PM
  #5728  
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When will the replacement parts be in stock?
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:53 PM
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Nice quick change
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:55 PM
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[QUOTE=BmainStar;8913907]
Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
Here is another thing to check if your truck feels bound up. Mine was yesterday. After 8 packs I noticed the droop screws had been screwing in on their own while driving which took away ride height and all droop. Hahaha. No biggie, just remove screws and add loctite and you'll be good to go.[/QUOTE// Also remove the shock boots ,it will free up the truck alot!
Mine did the droop readjust also from chewing through... Here is the fix.



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