9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
03-31-2011, 06:27 AM
#5313
03-31-2011, 07:08 AM
#5315
My body is pretty much toast. It didn't hold up well at all, my fault for crashing, I guess lol But my Proline bodies held up much better on my Slash 4x4, but then again, I shoe goo'd the heck out of them. Anyway, What aftermarket bodies are you guys using on your trucks? I like the JConcepts version of the Raptor and was told that part number 0215, the "One size Fits Most" will fit pretty well. If anyone's used this one, how badly did you have to chop, er, I mean "trim" it to fit? I also like the Jconcepts Illuzion Dare body because of the ability to put some LED's in the lightbars. I race so that aspect isn't really important but I think it'd be pretty fun to do just for the heck of it. Has anyone used it? What other bodies have any of you put on and how much trimming did you have to do to make it fit? Pix would be great too. After all, don't we all want a reason to show off our trucks? lol here's what mine looks like right now
03-31-2011, 07:15 AM
#5316
If you have a dremel and a couple integy hex drivers you can have pins in a half hour. the shaft on the driver is a perfect fit. Its really not very hard...just do it. I have at least 20 packs on my integy pins and there is no wear. There is a few of us running these pins and it is a great fix without the wait or relying on anyone.
03-31-2011, 07:21 AM
#5318
I am currently running the SC10 body which I think is the best looking body out there, however it is also probably the least durable. As far as the most durable I found that the Hyper bodies are the most durable(not the best looking). I havent tried my Hyper body on the Losi yet but I bet it would work. There are a few cuts you can make to the hyper body to dress it up a bit.
03-31-2011, 07:38 AM
#5319
Anything that will fit a Blitz or SC 10 should work on this ......
I have tried the stock Blitz body , the 09 Champ. AE body , the stock SC 10 body , and the JC Manta , and the JC Raptor and all were a decent fit .
I have tried the stock Blitz body , the 09 Champ. AE body , the stock SC 10 body , and the JC Manta , and the JC Raptor and all were a decent fit .
03-31-2011, 07:47 AM
#5320
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
If you have a dremel and a couple integy hex drivers you can have pins in a half hour. the shaft on the driver is a perfect fit. Its really not very hard...just do it. I have at least 20 packs on my integy pins and there is no wear. There is a few of us running these pins and it is a great fix without the wait or relying on anyone.
cool, thanx
03-31-2011, 08:10 AM
#5321
You'll get used to the diff ordeal after awhile. Once you get the routine down, you can swap fluids in about 10 minutes per diff. The first time will take much longer though as getting the grease out is a PIA.
I think the SCTE is actually one of the easier trucks to work on
1. Either shock tower set will be fine.
2. Thats a good start on diffs then go from there.
I think the SCTE is actually one of the easier trucks to work on
1. Either shock tower set will be fine.
2. Thats a good start on diffs then go from there.
alum would be toughest, but graphite if you just race for sure (or a mix)
553 552 is what most recommend, im' still in tune mode though. Actually sticking w/ stock grease in the front and center and 3k in the rear.
rear diff -
remove bumper 4 screws
remove top sway screw, loosen bottom twist sway holders to slide sway up
remove top diff screws (2)
remove back two chassis screws, loosen front two screws.
Pop back side of diff cover off pull out diff - do deed - reinstall
Front is similar, but rear is much easier to just pull off than the front.. front is quickest to just do in place
553 552 is what most recommend, im' still in tune mode though. Actually sticking w/ stock grease in the front and center and 3k in the rear.
rear diff -
remove bumper 4 screws
remove top sway screw, loosen bottom twist sway holders to slide sway up
remove top diff screws (2)
remove back two chassis screws, loosen front two screws.
Pop back side of diff cover off pull out diff - do deed - reinstall
Front is similar, but rear is much easier to just pull off than the front.. front is quickest to just do in place
I haven't gotten to the front yet. Any shortcuts for the front? 
So was it easy or a pain in the a..s?Have you ever had a r/c race car before?It gets easy after a few times,you will get familiar with it!!!Be sure to use the current limiter on the rx8 to control heat!!!! And the C.F. should be lighter than milled alum,but if you bent the stockers milled Alum might be for you should be more stought than the C.F.
Be sure to use the current limiter on the rx8 to control heat!!!! And the C.F. should be lighter than milled alum,but if you bent the stockers milled Alum might be for you should be more stought than the C.F.Thanks for the tip on the current limiter on the rx8. I've heard 90 (?) is a good number to start with, or was it 10? Now I'll have to search over 300 threads to find the recommended settings. Can someone put the recommended settings on the first page??? lol
03-31-2011, 08:20 AM
#5322
Some more questions for you guys.
1. I understand what type of silicone fluid I should use for the diff gears, but what about for the ring & pinion gear (front and rear) in the diff housing? Should I use the same fluid or grease?
2. How much? I noticed the grease on the ring & pinion gear is "clean."
3. For the actual diff gears, I assume I fill up the inside just enough to cover the top portion of the gears, correct?
1. I understand what type of silicone fluid I should use for the diff gears, but what about for the ring & pinion gear (front and rear) in the diff housing? Should I use the same fluid or grease?
2. How much? I noticed the grease on the ring & pinion gear is "clean."
3. For the actual diff gears, I assume I fill up the inside just enough to cover the top portion of the gears, correct?
03-31-2011, 08:26 AM
#5323
My body is pretty much toast. It didn't hold up well at all, my fault for crashing, I guess lol But my Proline bodies held up much better on my Slash 4x4, but then again, I shoe goo'd the heck out of them. Anyway, What aftermarket bodies are you guys using on your trucks? I like the JConcepts version of the Raptor and was told that part number 0215, the "One size Fits Most" will fit pretty well. If anyone's used this one, how badly did you have to chop, er, I mean "trim" it to fit? I also like the Jconcepts Illuzion Dare body because of the ability to put some LED's in the lightbars. I race so that aspect isn't really important but I think it'd be pretty fun to do just for the heck of it. Has anyone used it? What other bodies have any of you put on and how much trimming did you have to do to make it fit? Pix would be great too. After all, don't we all want a reason to show off our trucks? lol here's what mine looks like right now
I had to trim the front fenders quite a bit so there isn't any binding when pushing down on the chassis and turning the wheels. Other than that, everything fits well, looks great, and the lexan used for this body is considerably thicker than the proline raptor body, which I also have.
03-31-2011, 08:44 AM
#5324
Well I bent both the front and rear shock towers today just practicing on the track and bashing off the track. It was all my fault for the bent shock towers so I'm fine with that. So I decide to work on the rear first.....
First off, WHAT A PITA it is to take off the rear shock tower lol. Definitely a lot of screws. Its easy, but damn what a hassle.
I then decided to take apart the rear diff. Again, WHAT A PITA lol. Seriously, I don't know how you racers take the time to replace the diff fluids regularly. I'm looking for shortcuts on how I would tackle this job if I ever had to replace the fluid in the future and it still looks like a PITA to do. Wow. lol
Anyhow, the pins in my rear diff look fine. I am starting to see a TINY bit of wear/etching but its not bad at all. I'm going to wait until I receive my chrispins before putting everything back together. I'm also getting a Tekin RX8 and SC4X in the mail tomorrow
Some questions for you guys:
1. Would you recommend the carbon fiber or aluminum (milled) shock towers? Which one would take more of a beating?
2. Is the recommended diff fluid 5/5/3 (front, center, rear)? What would you guys recommend?
First off, WHAT A PITA it is to take off the rear shock tower lol. Definitely a lot of screws. Its easy, but damn what a hassle.
I then decided to take apart the rear diff. Again, WHAT A PITA lol. Seriously, I don't know how you racers take the time to replace the diff fluids regularly. I'm looking for shortcuts on how I would tackle this job if I ever had to replace the fluid in the future and it still looks like a PITA to do. Wow. lol
Anyhow, the pins in my rear diff look fine. I am starting to see a TINY bit of wear/etching but its not bad at all. I'm going to wait until I receive my chrispins before putting everything back together. I'm also getting a Tekin RX8 and SC4X in the mail tomorrow
Some questions for you guys:
1. Would you recommend the carbon fiber or aluminum (milled) shock towers? Which one would take more of a beating?
2. Is the recommended diff fluid 5/5/3 (front, center, rear)? What would you guys recommend?
5-5-3 or 5-3-3 are what we are running the most in so cal area.
Once you get the hang of it, and find what screws it is not that hard. I take the bottom 5 out first and pull the rear clip off.
I then take the top two and bottom two screws out to get the bumper off.
Take top two sway bar screws out and loosen bottoms to spin the brace out of the way.
Top two screws for diff case.
So 14 screws. Yeah it seems like a lot but I use my Hitachi so it does not take very long at all. You only need one bit for most of it. (you need the 3/32 for the 4 larger bottom screws but everything else is 5/64 (2mm). so it is pretty easy.
Front takes a little longer.
I take the three back screws off the top plate.
Take the 4 large diff case screws and the two outside steering link screws
Pull the front end off.
Top two screws for the bumper off.
Then you need to take the two cap head screws out and the top two diff screws out.
You have a diff. Again with a mechanical screw driver this is all much easier.
It is not that hard once you do it a couple times though.
Some more questions for you guys.
1. I understand what type of silicone fluid I should use for the diff gears, but what about for the ring & pinion gear (front and rear) in the diff housing? Should I use the same fluid or grease?
2. How much? I noticed the grease on the ring & pinion gear is "clean."
3. For the actual diff gears, I assume I fill up the inside just enough to cover the top portion of the gears, correct?
1. I understand what type of silicone fluid I should use for the diff gears, but what about for the ring & pinion gear (front and rear) in the diff housing? Should I use the same fluid or grease?
2. How much? I noticed the grease on the ring & pinion gear is "clean."
3. For the actual diff gears, I assume I fill up the inside just enough to cover the top portion of the gears, correct?
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...odId=LOSA99203. I usually fill in the teeth of the ring gear and then install it and spin it around a little and this gets the ring gear.
For rebuilding the gear diffs look at this nice video of Drake describing the build. For the Ten diffs leave the thin washer in. It is ok to remove it for the 8ight diffs but we recommend you use them in the ten diffs. Everything else holds true.
http://www.youtube.com/user/LosiRaci.../2/Jm7gQCbnWMs
03-31-2011, 08:47 AM
#5325
I had to trim the front fenders quite a bit so there isn't any binding when pushing down on the chassis and turning the wheels. Other than that, everything fits well, looks great, and the lexan used for this body is considerably thicker than the proline raptor body, which I also have.[/QUOTE]
nice
nice