9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
03-27-2011, 06:37 PM
#4996
Had fun today in my first race with this or any other SC truck. I sucked, but not too bad that I can't bring it up a bit once i get use to it. Definitely had heat issues, but never cogged or broke down.
My MMP / Tekin 4.5 / 14t was coming off at 170-180 on the motor, hotter than anything else I've run. Speed was just about perfect though and had no problems down the straight or quad'ing our little double/table section.
Track is NorCal Hobbies, I think it's 100x70 or something, lots of videos posted here of it. Super tacking hooked up today.
Should i be looking at dropping down a tooth or two and bringing in some timing?
My MMP / Tekin 4.5 / 14t was coming off at 170-180 on the motor, hotter than anything else I've run. Speed was just about perfect though and had no problems down the straight or quad'ing our little double/table section.
Track is NorCal Hobbies, I think it's 100x70 or something, lots of videos posted here of it. Super tacking hooked up today.
Should i be looking at dropping down a tooth or two and bringing in some timing?
03-27-2011, 06:41 PM
#4997
Would anyone recommend this system in the 4x4: Dynamite FUZE 1/10th ESC/Motor Combo (6800Kv)
Link:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-6800Kv
I put this system in my 2wd and I love it and I would love to put one in the Losi 4x4 that I hope to get someday soon haha Thank you
Link:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-6800Kv
I put this system in my 2wd and I love it and I would love to put one in the Losi 4x4 that I hope to get someday soon haha Thank you
03-27-2011, 06:43 PM
#4998
Would anyone recommend this system in the 4x4: Dynamite FUZE 1/10th ESC/Motor Combo (6800Kv)
Link:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-6800Kv
I put this system in my 2wd and I love it and I would love to put one in the Losi 4x4 that I hope to get someday soon haha Thank you
Link:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-6800Kv
I put this system in my 2wd and I love it and I would love to put one in the Losi 4x4 that I hope to get someday soon haha Thank you
That thing would overheat in about 10 seconds its not ment for 4x4s at all.
03-27-2011, 06:46 PM
#4999
I have posted my set up a few times on here and I still think it's a great set up. I am running a MMP and a castle 2650 Motor with Zero heat issues I also have had great run times.Top speed 45.8 mph Motor temps about 135 after 20 mins and ESC about 119. I know my packs were lasting at least 10 mins. It run 3s though. It's a absolute travesty that tracks are allowing ROAR to ruin this hobby with out dated bogus rules on motor and battery sizes. I mean there's no real advantage speed wise running a 3000kv motor on 3s vs. a 5000kv motor on 2s. The only difference is that one will burn it's self up in a few days. They need to realize that brushless has changed the game as well as lipo technology. I don't know too many other sports or things of that nature that are like, well this new product could really make the sport more affordable for team owners and save fans money and make 200% more fans come but let's not do it because were the boss's and we make the rules and logic has no place in our sport. No they embrace technology like instant replay and use it to improve the experience for everyone. Instead were stuck with one or two classes of electric cars that have what they really need to race and have reliable equipment. Everyone else has to worry about frying their electronics and ruining hundreds of dollars in money they spent. So is their someone we can write to and plead for some better guidelines, or maybe get tracks to abolish ROAR as the governing body? I mean it's not rocket science to update these rules and keep up with a technology driven hobby to keep the people who pay your salary happy is it? I just don't think it's fare and really ends up pushing everyone in to Mod classes which ends up being ruled by people with the deepest pockets. When we could have reasonable guidelines and maybe keep the races a bit more competitive. Just my 2 cents. Sorry if someone my motor and battery comparisons were off but you see what I was getting at.
03-27-2011, 06:52 PM
#5000
I have posted my set up a few times on here and I still think it's a great set up. I am running a MMP and a castle 2650 Motor with Zero heat issues I also have had great run times.Top speed 45.8 mph Motor temps about 135 after 20 mins and ESC about 119. I know my packs were lasting at least 10 mins. It run 3s though. It's a absolute travesty that tracks are allowing ROAR to ruin this hobby with out dated bogus rules on motor and battery sizes. I mean there's no real advantage speed wise running a 3000kv motor on 3s vs. a 5000kv motor on 2s. The only difference is that one will burn it's self up in a few days. They need to realize that brushless has changed the game as well as lipo technology. I don't know too many other sports or things of that nature that are like, well this new product could really make the sport more affordable for team owners and save fans money and make 200% more fans come but let's not do it because were the boss's and we make the rules and logic has no place in our sport. No they embrace technology like instant replay and use it to improve the experience for everyone. Instead were stuck with one or two classes of electric cars that have what they really need to race and have reliable equipment. Everyone else has to worry about frying their electronics and ruining hundreds of dollars in money they spent. So is their someone we can write to and plead for some better guidelines, or maybe get tracks to abolish ROAR as the governing body? I mean it's not rocket science to update these rules and keep up with a technology driven hobby to keep the people who pay your salary happy is it? I just don't think it's fare and really ends up pushing everyone in to Mod classes which ends up being ruled by people with the deepest pockets. When we could have reasonable guidelines and maybe keep the races a bit more competitive. Just my 2 cents. Sorry if someone my motor and battery comparisons were off but you see what I was getting at.
03-27-2011, 06:58 PM
#5001
I have posted my set up a few times on here and I still think it's a great set up. I am running a MMP and a castle 2650 Motor with Zero heat issues I also have had great run times.Top speed 45.8 mph Motor temps about 135 after 20 mins and ESC about 119. I know my packs were lasting at least 10 mins. It run 3s though. It's a absolute travesty that tracks are allowing ROAR to ruin this hobby with out dated bogus rules on motor and battery sizes. I mean there's no real advantage speed wise running a 3000kv motor on 3s vs. a 5000kv motor on 2s. The only difference is that one will burn it's self up in a few days. They need to realize that brushless has changed the game as well as lipo technology. I don't know too many other sports or things of that nature that are like, well this new product could really make the sport more affordable for team owners and save fans money and make 200% more fans come but let's not do it because were the boss's and we make the rules and logic has no place in our sport. No they embrace technology like instant replay and use it to improve the experience for everyone. Instead were stuck with one or two classes of electric cars that have what they really need to race and have reliable equipment. Everyone else has to worry about frying their electronics and ruining hundreds of dollars in money they spent. So is their someone we can write to and plead for some better guidelines, or maybe get tracks to abolish ROAR as the governing body? I mean it's not rocket science to update these rules and keep up with a technology driven hobby to keep the people who pay your salary happy is it? I just don't think it's fare and really ends up pushing everyone in to Mod classes which ends up being ruled by people with the deepest pockets. When we could have reasonable guidelines and maybe keep the races a bit more competitive. Just my 2 cents. Sorry if someone my motor and battery comparisons were off but you see what I was getting at.
I have another thought for you? Why does racing have to be about top mph? If all the trucks are limited by time and battery you have a few choices; shoot for a little extra speed and hope you make the full main or you stay geared well and force better lines and have enough pack to make it? Racing can be fun w/o hitting 1/8 buggy speeds in 1/10 trucks that really cannot take anywhere near the beating of a 1/8 buggy and truggy yet this is the speed and pace we are pushing for? really?
I think roar is fine w/ 2s limits. Those guys at the cactus classic seamed to do pretty well w/ it
Time for you to double or triple class :P 1/8 e-buggies are AWESOME! Then again guys complain about 4s restrictions on this class as well :P God knows you don't need more as the current motors and batteries are more than anyone can put down.. but bigger is always better, right?
EDIT: ps I actually don't care either way.. 2s,3s,4s limits.. bah if the truck is too fast and not setup right it won't do the owner any good... someone running good tight lines with just enough power to hold everything perfect will always walk away the winner.. the race is never won on the straight.
03-27-2011, 07:31 PM
#5003
Agreed I guess I was trying to say that battery size isn't always about speed, which is why I think a 2s restriction is silly. My argument is that running 2s systems is inefficient. I know they can run and be fast. But we are not all pros and can't afford to rebuild/replace motors when they fry from beeing pushed to hard. Which is why we should be able to run larger motors with higher voltage as the speeds won't really change but the longevity of our equipment will. Making the hobby just a little less expensive than it already is. I mean it's crazy how expensive it is. So why force us to push motors that are too small to their limits on 2s to go fast when we could run large motors a little slower. It's like running a 4 cylinder car with dual turbo pushing 10000rpm making 400 HP or an 8 cylinder big block pushing 4500rpm making 400hp. Both get the same results but which one do you think will last longer? I'm not going for more speed I think these things are fast enough, just less wear and tear on motors esc's and batteries.
03-27-2011, 07:38 PM
#5004
Agreed I guess I was trying to say that battery size isn't always about speed, which is why I think a 2s restriction is silly. My argument is that running 2s systems is inefficient. I know they can run and be fast. But we are not all pros and can't afford to rebuild/replace motors when they fry from beeing pushed to hard. Which is why we should be able to run larger motors with higher voltage as the speeds won't really change but the longevity of our equipment will. Making the hobby just a little less expensive than it already is. I mean it's crazy how expensive it is. So why force us to push motors that are too small to their limits on 2s to go fast when we could run large motors a little slower. It's like running a 4 cylinder car with dual turbo pushing 10000rpm making 400 HP or an 8 cylinder big block pushing 4500rpm making 400hp. Both get the same results but which one do you think will last longer? I'm not going for more speed I think these things are fast enough, just less wear and tear on motors esc's and batteries.
If you dont mind me asking = What are your setting with your SCTE and 2650? I really havent messed with to many of my settings yet? Are you using torque control? I only run 2s right now.
Thanks,
Roc
03-27-2011, 07:43 PM
#5006
All right guys here is some Race action from sat check it out.there where only 2 losi there and was having issues with my rear diff binding because the pins still got fourth though.
ME--- white front yellow back
4th place
SEF--- all yellow with black accents 1st place
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6OoXNSI2qQ
ME--- white front yellow back
4th placeSEF--- all yellow with black accents
1st placehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6OoXNSI2qQ
03-27-2011, 08:11 PM
#5008
Posted this in the radio and electronics section but thought maybe you guys could help. Really want to get my truck running right.
Question for all of you in the know. I just bought a losi scte 4x4 truck. Running a tekin rx8 esc, novak ballistic 4.5 or 5.5 550 can motor, and using fantom 50c lipos. Have run this setup in my jammin scrt10 for around 9 months with no issues whatsoever.
Ok the problem is I have melted 4 different bullet connectors that are inside the lipos (if you look at the phantom's they are the bullet push in kind). It's been the positive side the first 3 times and the fourth time it was the wire came unsoldered from the male bullet (not inside the lipo). I thought for sure it was some kind of cold joint or esc issue as I have never had an issue with my soldering technique EVER!. I called tekin and they sent me out a new esc and the problem persisted. I then tried a completely different esc (novak havoc pro sc) and I still had the issue. The only difference from the jammin to the new losi is I didn't use any kind of battery connectors (deans, traxxas, etc). I simply wired the esc to the male bullet connectors that go directly into the battery. Wire length is roughly 3 inches from esc to battery terminal. The terminals were not crossed as that would have fried the lipos.
No heat issues on the esc (90-100) or motors (130-160 most) at all (motors might run a little warm on warmer days but nothing of concern).
Testing I have done: Changed all settings in esc to VERY moderate (no timing and very little just to try different things), ran 11-18 tooth pinions (wanted to try everything and it doesn't matter what I'm using). Has only been run in cool climates (65 degrees at the most). Both motors that I have do it. Changed all wiring to new wire. Multiple esc's.
Is there a problem not running battery connectors? Deans, traxxas, etc?
I actually ran the truck in front of my house and temped it after every drive by. The motor and esc are warm (90-100 most on both) the wires on the rx8 terminals are 85 degrees. The wires coming out of battery after 4-5 passes: 145-160 degrees!! BUT battery is cold 75-80. Wire I am using for battery wire is tekin wire that came with my esc. Also the wire gauge is 12. Most that I have spoken to says 12ga is perfect especially if it's a higher quality wire.
I can't actually get through a whole battery pack as the terminal melts after a few laps and from jumping it gets jarred out. This thing has me pulling my hair out.
Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Question for all of you in the know. I just bought a losi scte 4x4 truck. Running a tekin rx8 esc, novak ballistic 4.5 or 5.5 550 can motor, and using fantom 50c lipos. Have run this setup in my jammin scrt10 for around 9 months with no issues whatsoever.
Ok the problem is I have melted 4 different bullet connectors that are inside the lipos (if you look at the phantom's they are the bullet push in kind). It's been the positive side the first 3 times and the fourth time it was the wire came unsoldered from the male bullet (not inside the lipo). I thought for sure it was some kind of cold joint or esc issue as I have never had an issue with my soldering technique EVER!. I called tekin and they sent me out a new esc and the problem persisted. I then tried a completely different esc (novak havoc pro sc) and I still had the issue. The only difference from the jammin to the new losi is I didn't use any kind of battery connectors (deans, traxxas, etc). I simply wired the esc to the male bullet connectors that go directly into the battery. Wire length is roughly 3 inches from esc to battery terminal. The terminals were not crossed as that would have fried the lipos.
No heat issues on the esc (90-100) or motors (130-160 most) at all (motors might run a little warm on warmer days but nothing of concern).
Testing I have done: Changed all settings in esc to VERY moderate (no timing and very little just to try different things), ran 11-18 tooth pinions (wanted to try everything and it doesn't matter what I'm using). Has only been run in cool climates (65 degrees at the most). Both motors that I have do it. Changed all wiring to new wire. Multiple esc's.
Is there a problem not running battery connectors? Deans, traxxas, etc?
I actually ran the truck in front of my house and temped it after every drive by. The motor and esc are warm (90-100 most on both) the wires on the rx8 terminals are 85 degrees. The wires coming out of battery after 4-5 passes: 145-160 degrees!! BUT battery is cold 75-80. Wire I am using for battery wire is tekin wire that came with my esc. Also the wire gauge is 12. Most that I have spoken to says 12ga is perfect especially if it's a higher quality wire.
I can't actually get through a whole battery pack as the terminal melts after a few laps and from jumping it gets jarred out. This thing has me pulling my hair out.
Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
03-27-2011, 08:17 PM
#5009
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
Agreed I guess I was trying to say that battery size isn't always about speed, which is why I think a 2s restriction is silly. My argument is that running 2s systems is inefficient. I know they can run and be fast. But we are not all pros and can't afford to rebuild/replace motors when they fry from beeing pushed to hard. Which is why we should be able to run larger motors with higher voltage as the speeds won't really change but the longevity of our equipment will. Making the hobby just a little less expensive than it already is. I mean it's crazy how expensive it is. So why force us to push motors that are too small to their limits on 2s to go fast when we could run large motors a little slower. It's like running a 4 cylinder car with dual turbo pushing 10000rpm making 400 HP or an 8 cylinder big block pushing 4500rpm making 400hp. Both get the same results but which one do you think will last longer? I'm not going for more speed I think these things are fast enough, just less wear and tear on motors esc's and batteries.