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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-02-2016, 11:34 AM
  #46426  
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Good thread will read more got the girl friend a nitro that was converted so will need help with the upgrades needed . should be here Monday . after teardown I'll know more
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:11 PM
  #46427  
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Originally Posted by barryjcm View Post
Good thread will read more got the girl friend a nitro that was converted so will need help with the upgrades needed . should be here Monday . after teardown I'll know more
Don't forget that all the 2.0 parts will fit. even more info about the truck here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...it-thread.html
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:13 AM
  #46428  
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Don't forget that all the 2.0 parts will fit. even more info about the truck here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...it-thread.html
Thanks for info
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:23 AM
  #46429  
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Good idea to do a -search- in the "for sale" ads before u spend a ton of money on hop ups. You might find a killer deal on a quality finished one and have yours for spare parts or sell it as is and get the newer one less than 1/2 price. Just a thought.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:34 PM
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I just picked up one of these SCTE 1.0 rollers form here. I set it up had it out for it's first run at our track and the truck nose dives a bit coming of the jumps. Anything can be done to make the truck more neutral to land flat of jumps.
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:51 AM
  #46431  
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Originally Posted by M03Racer View Post
I just picked up one of these SCTE 1.0 rollers form here. I set it up had it out for it's first run at our track and the truck nose dives a bit coming of the jumps. Anything can be done to make the truck more neutral to land flat of jumps.

i still race my scte ten 1.0 and it handles great. if you are running the 1.0
chassis? re-drill the holes and move the battery tray back about 1/4".
then run the battery all the way back in the tray.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:31 PM
  #46432  
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Originally Posted by floyd2810 View Post
i still race my scte ten 1.0 and it handles great. if you are running the 1.0
chassis? re-drill the holes and move the battery tray back about 1/4".
then run the battery all the way back in the tray.
Thanks. I will try that.
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:49 AM
  #46433  
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as fare as upgrades go. mine has alot of aluminum upgrade parts.
but it's 6 years old and i have been upgrading parts every year.
the most needed upgrade i would say is the rear chassis brace is 2 short.
the chassis flexes to much. i got the hot racing rear long aluminum chassis brace.
the other upgrade i like is i upgraded the shocks to losi 1/8 buggy shocks. they are
so smooth and pretty much maintenance free.
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:06 AM
  #46434  
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Default 7 Things to consider to minimize nose diving off of jumps.

Originally Posted by M03Racer View Post
I just picked up one of these SCTE 1.0 rollers form here. I set it up had it out for it's first run at our track and the truck nose dives a bit coming of the jumps. Anything can be done to make the truck more neutral to land flat of jumps.
Before making any set-up changes, check your ESC settings. Any drag brake will cause the truck to nose dive in the air if you let go of throttle abruptly.

Next thing to try is to play with a throttle in the air. A little blip of throttle may be all you need to flatten it out.

In terms of setup changes, definitely moving weight back would help, but you shouldn't need to drill additional holes in the chassis - the battery tray already has 3 position settings. If you are not already all the way back you can just move the spacers. This of course has an impact on less front grip though - so possible a good change to make if you need to lessen steering sensitivity.

Other option to try is a stiffer front suspension or softer rear. You can "cheat" and avoid changing out springs and oil by just going out one hole on the shock bottoms on the front arm, or in one hole in the rear. This has an impact on less steering too...

Next, if none of this works, you can try STIFFENNING the rear. The Tekno SCT410 thread has a lot of guys saying that nosedive is NOT SO MUCH the nose going DOWN, but actually being caused by the rear of the chassis slapping the face of the jump and kicking the rear UP. They are reporting success by stiffening up the rear to prevent the rear from slapping the face. (Adding anti-squat would also help prevent chassis slap...).

Finally, I would say another option would be to LESSEN the degree of anti-squat, but this is only if you have the TLR tuning package aluminum hinge pin holders with adjustable pills, and if you determined that the nosedive is not being cause by rear chassis slap... If so, lessen rear anti squat to allow rear to compress a bit before lift off thus lessening rear boosting up.

Last last item. A long shot, but is it possible that your shell has a lot of hole drilled out in front but none in the rear? Normally the parachuting effect causes the front to lift, so I doubt this is a factor. But if the previous owner turned the body into a piece of swiss cheese in front but didn't do much in the rear, then additional venting in the rear could help.
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:25 AM
  #46435  
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[QUOTE=stelio279;14568287]Before making any set-up changes, check your ESC settings. Any drag brake will cause the truck to nose dive in the air if you let go of throttle abruptly.

that is a good idea check it for sure.


don't wast your time playing with the battery positions. drill 3 new battery/esc holder holes 1/4" farther back then move the battery all the way back to the back. believe me that will even out weight of the truck.
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:03 PM
  #46436  
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I'm looking to trick out my SCTE. Pretty much unlimited budget. I started with the Troy Lee Designs version of it. I've bought a couple extra batteries but I'm willing to throw them away if there's something better out there. So if the experts had an unlimited budget to upgrade, what would you recommend?

This is what I'm considering so far.

Battery Venom 70C 4S 14.8V 6300mAh
Chassis Hard Anodized Chassis, SCTE 2.0
ESC Tekin RSX Gen 2
Motor Tekin T8 G2 2650kv
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:20 PM
  #46437  
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Originally Posted by johnny_stacks View Post
I'm looking to trick out my SCTE. Pretty much unlimited budget. I started with the Troy Lee Designs version of it. I've bought a couple extra batteries but I'm willing to throw them away if there's something better out there. So if the experts had an unlimited budget to upgrade, what would you recommend?

This is what I'm considering so far.

Battery Venom 70C 4S 14.8V 6300mAh
Chassis Hard Anodized Chassis, SCTE 2.0
ESC Tekin RSX Gen 2
Motor Tekin T8 G2 2650kv
If your planing on racing you will want to go with a 2s lipo setup
Tekin Rx8 gen2
Tekin pro4 hd motor
2s team Orion 5800mah 110c
Tlr 2.0 chassis
Tlr aluminum chassis braces
Mip puck drive lines
And some good tires and wheels
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:23 AM
  #46438  
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Originally Posted by johnny_stacks View Post
I'm looking to trick out my SCTE. Pretty much unlimited budget. I started with the Troy Lee Designs version of it. I've bought a couple extra batteries but I'm willing to throw them away if there's something better out there. So if the experts had an unlimited budget to upgrade, what would you recommend?

This is what I'm considering so far.

Battery Venom 70C 4S 14.8V 6300mAh
Chassis Hard Anodized Chassis, SCTE 2.0
ESC Tekin RSX Gen 2
Motor Tekin T8 G2 2650kv
I just picked up the Kingzhead chassis for mine and am impressed. If I were you I would consider that option instead of 2.0 chassis for a couple of reasons:
- If you get the 2.0 chassis, you also need the battery hold down hardware, battery foam stickers, side chassis rails, and chassis braces. A lot to replace...
- Your truck then becomes "just another 2.0". Aside from being pretty common (uniqueness is important for some), you may be asking why didn't you just buy the 2.0.
- As for performance difference, both are good quality chassis with lower Center of Gravity (admittedly the 2.0 may be a bit lower since it gets the battery closer to the chassis). But the KH chassis angles the motor a bit so drive shaft angle is drastically reduced. (What TLR is doing on the latest 8th scales...).

Don't forget the other common important other hop-ups:
- HD diff cases
- HD front and rear diff outdrives
- HD center diff outdrives (if you don't go with the MIP pucks)
- adjustable aluminum hinge pin holders
- HD aluminum pivot ball set (really important for reducing slop)

Not sure if Troy Lee Designs version already has any of these. If you go with the 2.0 chassis and other hardware, you may see the prices added up enough to question why not just buy an SCTE 2.0...

These are good things to consider too:
- KingHeadz dual bearing center diff mount,
- HPI Z449 screws for diff (you'll need 2 packs for all 3 diffs)
- Hard anodized aluminum steering tube (helps reduce a bit of slop)
- Carbon fiber ackerman plate (helps reduce a bit of slop)

Other recent upgrades being proposed
- 22 shock conversion
- center drive shaft dog bone conversion (if you don't go with the MIP pucks).

As for electronics, check your track first before if they impose 2S batteries for racing before pulling trigger... (I've raced against 3S and its a huge advantage, but never seen 4S.)
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:25 AM
  #46439  
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the troy lee design version i think is on the 1.0 chassis.
i would keep the chassis just move the battery tray back by re-drilling the holes 1/4"
farther back. use the $100 from not buying a new chassis to upgrade your shock towers
and get and extended rear brace. if the truck has the blue shocks upgrade your shocks
the blue will rub off on the inside of the shocks and cause issues. techno makes great lightened hd front and rear outdrives and hd center outdrives.

all the tracks i race 4x4 corr or pro 4 what ever you want to call it, it's a 2s battery.
esc is tein rx8 gen1, motor tenshock 4600kv.

i have been racing the scte 1.0 the last 4/5 years if something breaks i look into
the aluminum parts to upgrade but only if it makes it better. some of the stuff is just bling
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:37 AM
  #46440  
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Originally Posted by johnny_stacks View Post
I'm looking to trick out my SCTE. Pretty much unlimited budget. I started with the Troy Lee Designs version of it. I've bought a couple extra batteries but I'm willing to throw them away if there's something better out there. So if the experts had an unlimited budget to upgrade, what would you recommend?

This is what I'm considering so far.

Battery Venom 70C 4S 14.8V 6300mAh
Chassis Hard Anodized Chassis, SCTE 2.0
ESC Tekin RSX Gen 2
Motor Tekin T8 G2 2650kv
This truck on 4S will be a handful. That is a ton of power with that high a KV motor. Can the drive line handle it, I believe so however will you be able to drive it, I would highly recommend AVC!

For being on a limited budget not sure I would put that much power in this unless you just like insane power. All the extra weight of the large battery and the large motor will put more stress and wear on the truck.

So can it be done (yes) should it be done, IMO the truck will be so over powered it will not be fun to drive but that is just me.

For what it is worth I would not put a 2650 in an 8th scale and try and race it! LOL
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