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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-10-2014, 05:29 AM
  #46231  
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No hip in stock so got 12mm Traxxas (looks like larger hex) and the protec hardened 10mm. I'll try them both and hopefully one will be superior. Also got the HD cases for front and rear. Thanks guys!!
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:40 PM
  #46232  
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Has anyone installed the MIP Pro4mance kit? any opinions?
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:35 AM
  #46233  
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Originally Posted by Bracer11 View Post
Has anyone installed the MIP Pro4mance kit? any opinions?
Lots of info on the Pro4mance chassis so just have to search for it. If you buy a kit new be sure it has the newer #7 bypass shock valves. You must have the harden shock bodies to run those pistons or they wear out fast. Been using the Pro4mance chassis since it came out and now use it on the Pro8. It works well and MIP Matt has lot of setup sheets for it on the MIP website. The 2.0 chassis upgrade is also a good option. Not a lot of savings one way or the other, but the MIP does offer a lot of parts that make upgrading a 1.0 truck easy. I did that and the HD diff cases as parts wore out so it takes the sting out of buying a new 2.0 and getting the same or better performance. Hope that helps.
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:21 PM
  #46234  
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Thanks Thunder. Thats exactly the info I was looking for.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:22 PM
  #46235  
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I turned off my tx today, and for whatever reason that made my truck go WOT in reverse... straight into a brick wall.
I guess it hit at a weird angle, and the bumper didn't do a damn thing, so the entire impact went straight to my chassis, bending it and my rear center drive shaft.

fortunately I had a replacement chassis I was going to put on it anyway since the one I got with it was quite scratched up, but I'll need to buy a new drive shaft.

Should I buy a replacement stock one (LOSB3578) or is a tekno driveshaft (TKR2217) worth the extra 3 bucks?
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:33 AM
  #46236  
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Originally Posted by Dynikus View Post
I turned off my tx today, and for whatever reason that made my truck go WOT in reverse... straight into a brick wall.
I would check your receiver settings for the "failsafe" mode. For some radio systems (eg FlysSky) you can click a button that sets the point at which the receiver will default to in case of loss of transmission. So this might be zero throttle, or possibly "full reverse/brake" (which sounds like what happened for your truck). For some other systems this might be set electronically.

Should I buy a replacement stock one (LOSB3578) or is a tekno driveshaft (TKR2217) worth the extra 3 bucks?
I think the Tekno driveshafts are worth it as they seem more durable both in the coupling as well as the little metal ring that goes around the tiny metal shaft in the coupling - the original factory plastic ring has a habit of eventually wearing through, then the coupling comes out and the shaft etc.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:14 AM
  #46237  
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I didn't know about that, thanks! That's probably what it was that caused it
how do I check my receiver's settings? It's a fs gr3e if it matters

And alright, I'll go ahead and get that ordered.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:41 AM
  #46238  
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Originally Posted by Dynikus View Post
I didn't know about that, thanks! That's probably what it was that caused it
how do I check my receiver's settings? It's a fs gr3e if it matters

And alright, I'll go ahead and get that ordered.
Umm... you'll need to read the manual to know for sure, but if it is the standard FlySky micro receiver, then do the following (going from memory here...):

1) Turn on transmitter (leave in neutral)
2) Turn on receiver (assuming you have battery plugged in)
3) On the receiver, there is a recessed button/hole. Click the button using some pointed object (such as the little plastic stick that was attached to the bind plug)

This has now set the failsafe point at neutral.

To test this:
1) Turn on transmitter (leave in neutral)
2) Turn on receiver (assuming you have battery plugged in)
3) Lift vehicle wheels off the ground
4) Whilst holding wheels off the ground give it some throttle (a little is all that is necessary), and hold this constant
5) Now, whilst keeping spinning tyres off the ground, and finger on the throttle, switch the transmitter off.

If you have set it correctly, then your receiver should then automagically return the throttle to the neutral point and the wheels should stop spinning.

Hope this helps. Let us know if it worked, or if your car blew up.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:33 PM
  #46239  
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Default Weird problem with sensor

I have a new Vortex R10 Pro ESC with Vortex VST2 Pro 550 4P 4000KV. When I plug sensor cable, esc and motor become very hot in few minutes, no powerful. When I disconnect the sensor cable, the temp is ok and lot of power. The motor run warm and ESC too with 12/40 spur gear. My light on my ESC is normal state in neutral.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:01 PM
  #46240  
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Lower your timing (and maybe drag brake) settings. Unless you run on a very small track you are undergeared; 14T or 15T pinion is recommended generally for that kv rating.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:24 PM
  #46241  
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Default Hit a pipe and now no throttle!

Hit a pipe that was sticking out and could not see it from the drivers stand! After it hit I had steering but no throttle. I swapped the wires around on the receiver and had steering on throttle so the receiver was fine. How do I check with a meter to see if the esc some how died? I have brushless hobbies LT4 Pro. I put the meter lead on the black contact on the esc and pulled the trigger and had no voltage at any of the three contacts on the motor. Please respond if this is the correct way to check it. Any other ideas ? Sorta weird that an impact would break something in the electronics.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:23 AM
  #46242  
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Originally Posted by Westkyracer View Post
Hit a pipe that was sticking out and could not see it from the drivers stand! After it hit I had steering but no throttle. I swapped the wires around on the receiver and had steering on throttle so the receiver was fine. How do I check with a meter to see if the esc some how died? I have brushless hobbies LT4 Pro. I put the meter lead on the black contact on the esc and pulled the trigger and had no voltage at any of the three contacts on the motor. Please respond if this is the correct way to check it. Any other ideas ? Sorta weird that an impact would break something in the electronics.
Impact breaking electronics? Take your phone and throw it at the ground and tell me how it survives . Usually there are lights on the ESC that tell you it is working. Check all your wire connections to the motor and battery connections. RC electronics take a massive amount of abuse to be in our cars but they will fail on occasion. Never heard of this ESC before. Not sure what it might be telling you with the onboard lights. Read the manual. Also not a bad idea to use a few layers of servo tape when mounting an ESC to a car like this.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:33 PM
  #46243  
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Just bought a SCTE roller and local hobby shop sold me the SCT short course turck edition motor and ESC I just read some of this thread and looks like this ESC is a bad choice whats my best options at this point? Thanks
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:43 PM
  #46244  
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Originally Posted by RevolutionM View Post
Just bought a SCTE roller and local hobby shop sold me the SCT short course turck edition motor and ESC I just read some of this thread and looks like this ESC is a bad choice whats my best options at this point? Thanks
I'm assuming that the Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro SCT Edition?



The cheapest and fastest option is to buy an external BEC, as the only real weak point of that ESC is the internal BEC.

The other option is to sell the ESC and with around the same money you can probably buy a HobbyWing 120A SCT Pro.

In reality, depending on the rest of your electronics setup you may have no issues at all... Having said that, if you have a high torque/speed servo and a receiver that is sensitive to power fluctuations then you will probably get the problems people have been talking about.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:39 AM
  #46245  
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No it's not the mamba esc it's there lower end model side winder
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