Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread >

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Like Tree9Likes

Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-09-2014, 01:27 PM
  #46216  
Tech Adept
 
Fegbri46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 116
Default

Originally Posted by stelio279
Fegbri46, good luck getting the old ones out. Best advice I could give is try and compress the housing externally (to take the stress off the screws) and then if allen wrench deosn't grip, try and drill/ dremmel out in-line holes on the head to be able to use a flat head screwdriver.

When replacing, use HPI 2.5 x 12mm flat head screws (P/N HPIZ449) which have been referenced several times in this and other SCTE threads. (You will need 2 packs.)
Thanks!! My first update to the truck and this happens! I'll try the dremmel.
Fegbri46 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 01:29 PM
  #46217  
Tech Adept
 
Fegbri46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 116
Default

Why 2 packs? They come in 10/pack.
Fegbri46 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 01:45 PM
  #46218  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 96
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Exactly... unfortunately you'll need to dip into that 2nd pack to be able to do all 3 diffs...
stelio279 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 01:56 PM
  #46219  
Tech Addict
 
Pygmy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 506
Default

Originally Posted by stelio279
Exactly... unfortunately you'll need to dip into that 2nd pack to be able to do all 3 diffs...
If you need screws that cost $3 - $4 per pack of 10, I'd get 2 or 3 packs anyways just to make sure you've always got 'em when you need them, even if you only need 2 right now. That's how I got my Lift-n-Lok case filled, and that's why I hardly ever have a problem at the track anymore
Pygmy is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:06 PM
  #46220  
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,745
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

I know these seem kind of spendy but they are well worth the peace of mind in this hobby. You can get them cheaper and obviously you can get them more expensive. These are what I have and they work for every screw I have ever had stripped out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150757063593?lpid=82
bds81175 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:06 PM
  #46221  
Tech Adept
 
Fegbri46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 116
Default

Gotcha!! Thanks!

Also, the stock diff housing is COVERED in thick grease or the ring gear and pinion. Do I need ALL that grease? It is a MESS in there! Can I just apply a thin layer on the ring gear itself?
Fegbri46 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:07 PM
  #46222  
Tech Adept
 
Fegbri46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 116
Default

Originally Posted by stelio279
Fegbri46, good luck getting the old ones out. Best advice I could give is try and compress the housing externally (to take the stress off the screws) and then if allen wrench deosn't grip, try and drill/ dremmel out in-line holes on the head to be able to use a flat head screwdriver.

When replacing, use HPI 2.5 x 12mm flat head screws (P/N HPIZ449) which have been referenced several times in this and other SCTE threads. (You will need 2 packs.)
Why are you recommending the 12mm ones? Aren't the stock ones 10mm?
Fegbri46 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:23 PM
  #46223  
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mc Rae, AR
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 66 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bds81175
I know these seem kind of spendy but they are well worth the peace of mind in this hobby. You can get them cheaper and obviously you can get them more expensive. These are what I have and they work for every screw I have ever had stripped out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150757063593?lpid=82
+1
Thunder Trail is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:27 PM
  #46224  
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mc Rae, AR
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 66 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fegbri46
Gotcha!! Thanks!

Also, the stock diff housing is COVERED in thick grease or the ring gear and pinion. Do I need ALL that grease? It is a MESS in there! Can I just apply a thin layer on the ring gear itself?
If you do regular maintenance say every 50 to 60 lipos use just a little grease on the ring and pinion. If you bash mud and water or run it until gears break the more grease approach is best IMO.
Thunder Trail is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:34 PM
  #46225  
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,745
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

If you are racing, you will definitely want to follow through and use the actual diff oil in specific weights. It drastically effects how the car handles. If you are using the standard SCTE 1.0 diff housings expect them to leak a fair amount. When you have an opportunity you should upgrade to the HD housings. Mine just flat out don't leak after the upgrade. A good place to start in general is 5,5,3 (5000 in front, 5000 in middle and 3000 in the rear). High bite bump them all up 2K.
bds81175 is offline  
Old 06-09-2014, 04:56 PM
  #46226  
Tech Adept
 
Fegbri46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 116
Default

Originally Posted by bds81175
If you are racing, you will definitely want to follow through and use the actual diff oil in specific weights. It drastically effects how the car handles. If you are using the standard SCTE 1.0 diff housings expect them to leak a fair amount. When you have an opportunity you should upgrade to the HD housings. Mine just flat out don't leak after the upgrade. A good place to start in general is 5,5,3 (5000 in front, 5000 in middle and 3000 in the rear). High bite bump them all up 2K.
I Am using diff oil, doing 5-5-3. I was talking about the ring gear and pinion in the dif housing in the rear. The factory put a TON of grease in there.
Fegbri46 is offline  
Old 06-10-2014, 05:29 AM
  #46227  
Tech Adept
 
Fegbri46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 116
Default

No hip in stock so got 12mm Traxxas (looks like larger hex) and the protec hardened 10mm. I'll try them both and hopefully one will be superior. Also got the HD cases for front and rear. Thanks guys!!
Fegbri46 is offline  
Old 06-12-2014, 03:40 PM
  #46228  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 196
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Has anyone installed the MIP Pro4mance kit? any opinions?
Bracer11 is offline  
Old 06-14-2014, 11:35 AM
  #46229  
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Mc Rae, AR
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 66 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bracer11
Has anyone installed the MIP Pro4mance kit? any opinions?
Lots of info on the Pro4mance chassis so just have to search for it. If you buy a kit new be sure it has the newer #7 bypass shock valves. You must have the harden shock bodies to run those pistons or they wear out fast. Been using the Pro4mance chassis since it came out and now use it on the Pro8. It works well and MIP Matt has lot of setup sheets for it on the MIP website. The 2.0 chassis upgrade is also a good option. Not a lot of savings one way or the other, but the MIP does offer a lot of parts that make upgrading a 1.0 truck easy. I did that and the HD diff cases as parts wore out so it takes the sting out of buying a new 2.0 and getting the same or better performance. Hope that helps.
Thunder Trail is offline  
Old 06-16-2014, 02:21 PM
  #46230  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 196
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Thunder. Thats exactly the info I was looking for.
Bracer11 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.