9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
05-21-2014, 09:23 AM
Tech Initiate
what are some good batteries for this truck for racing looking at getting in to it
any help would be good
Thanks
any help would be good
Thanks
05-21-2014, 10:15 AM
Venom has some 7000mah 70C right now but are not ROAR approved as they are slightly bigger in case size.
In the next few weeks they should have the new 7200mah 100C packs ready for shipment (they are on the atomik web site already!
)
05-21-2014, 01:27 PM
Tech Initiate
__20585__Turnigy_nano_tech_6600mah_2S2P_65_130C_Ha rdcase_Lipo_Pack.html are these any good for a new racer I will buy better but for getting to know the truck and practise and getting the hang of it. and are they legal for racing ? I see some are not
Thanks for your help
Thanks for your help
05-22-2014, 07:00 AM
I'm sure this has been asked before... Will the 2.0 towers work on the 1.0?
05-22-2014, 07:02 AM
05-23-2014, 02:04 AM
What's considered the average going price for a used Scte 1.0 roller without MIP upgrade...? Also, is the stock chassis good or does it NEED to be upgraded? And lastly, is a Losi Scte 1.0 durable, honestly? I want to get into 4x4 sct soon, trying to decide between Scte 1.0 and sc10 4x4...kinda want a tank(sct410 is too much).
05-23-2014, 03:55 AM
If you want a tank, the SCTE 1.0 is a good pick...The stock chassis is good, but it's not going to hurt to upgrade to the 2.0 chassis, or the even more nimble MIP chassis. I'd say chassis upgrading depends on your style of racing..If your bashing, just stick with the stock chassis...The SCTE 1.0 is about as durable as they come...Replace the stock rear bumper/bumper mount with the RMP bumper/bumper mount version. Take your time and add the normal strengthening upgrades (CF shock towers, titanium turnbuckles, Ti-shock shafts, etc..etc..) and you'll be in the bullet proof area you're goaling for. In all stock mode the truck is rugged enough, but the strengthening upgrades just add a little extra insurance. 
...Picked one up last Christmas for 200 bucks (Roller)...Not sure of the average going prices these days.
...Picked one up last Christmas for 200 bucks (Roller)...Not sure of the average going prices these days.
05-23-2014, 12:24 PM
Okay thanks. How do you guys know how to dissasemble and assemble stuff on the scte? I can't find a manual that shows steps to take apart stuff. I'm not a complete newbie to RC, but with my RtR kyosho sc it came with a manual showing how to build everything even though it was a kit. The first few weeks I had to use the manual to figure stuff out, but now I can take it apart and back without touching the manual. I'm guessing at some point cowhide know how to with an scte, but is there no manual? I'm just concerned I won't be able to figure stuff out at first, because I'm use to 2WD.
Also would a HITEC 965MG or a solar D770/D771/D772 be enough servo for one of these?
Also would a HITEC 965MG or a solar D770/D771/D772 be enough servo for one of these?
05-23-2014, 12:31 PM
Okay thanks. How do you guys know how to dissasemble and assemble stuff on the scte? I can't find a manual that shows steps to take apart stuff. I'm not a complete newbie to RC, but with my RtR kyosho sc it came with a manual showing how to build everything even though it was a kit. The first few weeks I had to use the manual to figure stuff out, but now I can take it apart and back without touching the manual. I'm guessing at some point cowhide know how to with an scte, but is there no manual? I'm just concerned I won't be able to figure stuff out at first, because I'm use to 2WD.
Also would a HITEC 965MG or a solar D770/D771/D772 be enough servo for one of these?
Also would a HITEC 965MG or a solar D770/D771/D772 be enough servo for one of these?
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...00#prodManuals
The chassis layout is different but that is all easy enough to figure out.
Most RTR's do not come with a full manual by the way. Most do come with an exploded parts sheet you can reference for where screws go back and such.
05-25-2014, 11:05 AM
Tech Rookie
For some reason i keep breaking my bodyposts (one every bashing session). Now its gotten to the point where i am tired of replacing it and was wondering if u guys have any tips for an easy fix? Maybe body mounts from another model would fit or perhaps the proline extended mounts are more flexible and less prone to snap?
And yes, as u might have guessed i am bashing and sometimes land on the roof since i am still a EDITED-bad-EDITED driver. lol
And yes, as u might have guessed i am bashing and sometimes land on the roof since i am still a EDITED-bad-EDITED driver. lol
Last edited by badaml; 05-26-2014 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Language
05-27-2014, 04:12 PM
TEN-SCTE RTR New Owner
Hi Guys,
Apologies for long post.
I’m new to the SC portion of the hobby and have recently been bitten by the bug! This is a great forum, you guys do nice work.
I had a Tamiya Super Champ back when dinosaurs roamed the earth and 3 months ago, I bought a $200.00 (Name withheld by request) Short Course truck that was RTR. Other than a few reliability problems and the fact that it handled like a Conestoga Wagon on meth it served it’s purpose well.
7 weeks ago I purchased a Losi TEN-SCTE 4X4 RTR from the LHS and I am thoroughly enjoying this truck. Fast, handles well, parts are available and reasonable and it is fairly durable.
The stock re-labeled MMP ESC died after 2 weeks and Horizon replaced the motor and ESC free-of-charge. While waiting, I purchased a Hobbywing Xerun Pro SCT sensored setup with a 3650 4000kV motor and haven’t looked back. I’m running a 12T pinion with a 40T spur as our track is fairly short.
I was somewhat disappointed with the reliability of the diff outdrive bushings and the front driveshaft/CV angle. The front outdrive cup from the center diff gets really hot and is noisy, and the cup/CV wears out rapidly.
We have a track in the backyard which is a tenth-scale 1/3 mile tri-oval with a stadium infield section. The track composition is compacted and sprinklered sand with 150+ years of eucalyptus oil for a binder. The grip conditions vary widely from loamy/grippy (damp) to slick and dusty(dry). There’s 4 or 5 of us that regularly run. The sand EATS parts, so I devised a few mods to improve reliability.
My apologies if these mods have been covered elsewhere.
I’ll show the mods with pictures with the next few posts.
Thanks,
Simon
Apologies for long post.
I’m new to the SC portion of the hobby and have recently been bitten by the bug! This is a great forum, you guys do nice work.
I had a Tamiya Super Champ back when dinosaurs roamed the earth and 3 months ago, I bought a $200.00 (Name withheld by request) Short Course truck that was RTR. Other than a few reliability problems and the fact that it handled like a Conestoga Wagon on meth it served it’s purpose well.
7 weeks ago I purchased a Losi TEN-SCTE 4X4 RTR from the LHS and I am thoroughly enjoying this truck. Fast, handles well, parts are available and reasonable and it is fairly durable.
The stock re-labeled MMP ESC died after 2 weeks and Horizon replaced the motor and ESC free-of-charge. While waiting, I purchased a Hobbywing Xerun Pro SCT sensored setup with a 3650 4000kV motor and haven’t looked back. I’m running a 12T pinion with a 40T spur as our track is fairly short.
I was somewhat disappointed with the reliability of the diff outdrive bushings and the front driveshaft/CV angle. The front outdrive cup from the center diff gets really hot and is noisy, and the cup/CV wears out rapidly.
We have a track in the backyard which is a tenth-scale 1/3 mile tri-oval with a stadium infield section. The track composition is compacted and sprinklered sand with 150+ years of eucalyptus oil for a binder. The grip conditions vary widely from loamy/grippy (damp) to slick and dusty(dry). There’s 4 or 5 of us that regularly run. The sand EATS parts, so I devised a few mods to improve reliability.
My apologies if these mods have been covered elsewhere.
I’ll show the mods with pictures with the next few posts.
Thanks,
Simon
05-27-2014, 04:16 PM
New Owner Mods
The first mod was these Super Schpitzen Dirt Geblocken underbody panels. I formed them out of 0.035” Kydex PVC sheet using Mama’s oven and a crude set of wood dies, then screwed them onto the plastic side rails of the chassis using short #4 phillips self-tapping screws.
The next mod was to add a bearing to the front center diff mount to take the angular loads from the front driveshaft.
The third mod was to add bearings to the front diff outdrive cups. This took a little head scratching but after some work I was able to machine down the cups to fit a 10mm ID bearing and turn some bearing retainers out of Delrin on my lathe.
The fourth mod put outdrive cup bearings on the rear outdrives/diff.
The last mod was to swap the front and rear driveshafts to improve the angle to the front diff. I think this is what TLR did for the 2.0 (among other things), ostensibly to move the CG back. It involved drilling 5 new holes in the chassis plate and heating up and bending the front chassis brace to give the new front driveshaft some room.
So far, after about 1 weeks running (10-15 packs) things are staying tight and appear to be holding up.
Simon
The next mod was to add a bearing to the front center diff mount to take the angular loads from the front driveshaft.
The third mod was to add bearings to the front diff outdrive cups. This took a little head scratching but after some work I was able to machine down the cups to fit a 10mm ID bearing and turn some bearing retainers out of Delrin on my lathe.
The fourth mod put outdrive cup bearings on the rear outdrives/diff.
The last mod was to swap the front and rear driveshafts to improve the angle to the front diff. I think this is what TLR did for the 2.0 (among other things), ostensibly to move the CG back. It involved drilling 5 new holes in the chassis plate and heating up and bending the front chassis brace to give the new front driveshaft some room.
So far, after about 1 weeks running (10-15 packs) things are staying tight and appear to be holding up.
Simon
05-28-2014, 06:03 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
For some reason i keep breaking my bodyposts (one every bashing session). Now its gotten to the point where i am tired of replacing it and was wondering if u guys have any tips for an easy fix? Maybe body mounts from another model would fit or perhaps the proline extended mounts are more flexible and less prone to snap?
And yes, as u might have guessed i am bashing and sometimes land on the roof since i am still a EDITED-bad-EDITED driver. lol
And yes, as u might have guessed i am bashing and sometimes land on the roof since i am still a EDITED-bad-EDITED driver. lol
You also run the post higher than you would with a short course body which is what they were designed for. The losi parts are tough. I have used the same body mounts for the life of several Losi trucks and never had a failure. I do have a suggestion. I have a older Ten T converted to electric. It has the body mounts that are very short on the shock tower so they don't ever break. That Ten T body looks more like a shrunken 1/8 scale truggy but I like it and the Ten t wing. You could swap to that body and the mounts to stop breakage. You might even be able to cut down that cool Chevy or GMC body to fit. Not cheap to swap bodies, but mounts are cheap and the Ten T body seems to last forever. With the Ten T body mounted low it flies better and is sealed to the chassis better keeping dirt out. I'm impressed with handling as well. With a good 550 motor is runs hard and turns lap times close to my Pro8 buggy. drives like a dream. Tires make a mean sound tearing around the track. I"m a racer and for me this is the ultimate racer's bash truck. That might not be what you wanted to hear, but I hope it helps in some way.
05-28-2014, 06:20 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
The first mod was these Super Schpitzen Dirt Geblocken underbody panels. I formed them out of 0.035” Kydex PVC sheet using Mama’s oven and a crude set of wood dies, then screwed them onto the plastic side rails of the chassis using short #4 phillips self-tapping screws.
The next mod was to add a bearing to the front center diff mount to take the angular loads from the front driveshaft.
The third mod was to add bearings to the front diff outdrive cups. This took a little head scratching but after some work I was able to machine down the cups to fit a 10mm ID bearing and turn some bearing retainers out of Delrin on my lathe.
The fourth mod put outdrive cup bearings on the rear outdrives/diff.
The last mod was to swap the front and rear driveshafts to improve the angle to the front diff. I think this is what TLR did for the 2.0 (among other things), ostensibly to move the CG back. It involved drilling 5 new holes in the chassis plate and heating up and bending the front chassis brace to give the new front driveshaft some room.
So far, after about 1 weeks running (10-15 packs) things are staying tight and appear to be holding up.
Simon
The next mod was to add a bearing to the front center diff mount to take the angular loads from the front driveshaft.
The third mod was to add bearings to the front diff outdrive cups. This took a little head scratching but after some work I was able to machine down the cups to fit a 10mm ID bearing and turn some bearing retainers out of Delrin on my lathe.
The fourth mod put outdrive cup bearings on the rear outdrives/diff.
The last mod was to swap the front and rear driveshafts to improve the angle to the front diff. I think this is what TLR did for the 2.0 (among other things), ostensibly to move the CG back. It involved drilling 5 new holes in the chassis plate and heating up and bending the front chassis brace to give the new front driveshaft some room.
So far, after about 1 weeks running (10-15 packs) things are staying tight and appear to be holding up.
Simon
05-28-2014, 07:25 AM
Wow! I'm a fan of your efforts. I like to see new ways of thinking about mods like this. Never know, your ideas might spark better designs from the factory on future builds. I think all the extra bearings could easily be added in the molds for the diffs right from the start. Extra wt is not good but having it in the right place for durability is a good tradeoff at times. You have that dirt that wears stuff out so the side dams do help. You could convert that puppy to a Pro8 and run a tight fitting body that eliminates most dirt from getting inside. Like the fresh ideas. Look forward to any others you want to share.
I've been through 3 diff housings already before I made these mods so it may be that the additional parts sales are a good revenue stream for them.
The extra weight doesn't seem to bother the SCTE much, but I'm not an accomplished enough driver to really be aware of the difference. Besides, the SCTE 1.0 is no lightweight to begin with!
Thanks again,
Simon
Last edited by AtomicPunk; 05-28-2014 at 07:45 AM.