Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Also for you guys that are rebuilding your trucks look at the Casper-RC extreme grease. GREAT for ring and pinion gears and CV joints. Guys that are using it can't say enough about how great it works.
Tech Apprentice

Whats up guys!
I just picked up a scte off ebay for a pretty good deal, The catch is that its been run hard and put away dirty and not cared for, Ive been reading up on the fixes on this thread but i still cant seem to find any info on which dubro rod ends everybody is using to fix the turn buckle problems?
Ill probably be posting in here alot more now as i rebuild this truck to go racing!
I just picked up a scte off ebay for a pretty good deal, The catch is that its been run hard and put away dirty and not cared for, Ive been reading up on the fixes on this thread but i still cant seem to find any info on which dubro rod ends everybody is using to fix the turn buckle problems?
Ill probably be posting in here alot more now as i rebuild this truck to go racing!
Tech Initiate

Whats up guys!
I just picked up a scte off ebay for a pretty good deal, The catch is that its been run hard and put away dirty and not cared for, Ive been reading up on the fixes on this thread but i still cant seem to find any info on which dubro rod ends everybody is using to fix the turn buckle problems?
Ill probably be posting in here alot more now as i rebuild this truck to go racing!
I just picked up a scte off ebay for a pretty good deal, The catch is that its been run hard and put away dirty and not cared for, Ive been reading up on the fixes on this thread but i still cant seem to find any info on which dubro rod ends everybody is using to fix the turn buckle problems?
Ill probably be posting in here alot more now as i rebuild this truck to go racing!
MIP offers two kits that will do the whole truck, minus the servo to servo saver link. The kit includes Dubro rod ends and Lunsford TI turnbuckles.
I will warn you that they are "Lightweight" kits. I say this because, after ordering and receiving the kits, I opted to not install. Both the rod ends and turnbuckles are approx. half the size of the Losi stuff and I just didn't feel like they would ultimately be strong enough. I'm not saying size matters but, it was too gross a change for me to take a chance with. Also, the kit requires you to use spacers, because of the rod end size difference. You could CA the spacers in place but, if you don't, I can’t see how "quick" changes at the track will be much fun......you'll spend all your time on the floor looking for that stupid little spacer you just lost!
The above aside, does anyone else have experience with the MIP kits I mentioned? Or know of alternative rod ends that can be used with the Lunsford "Punisher" TI turnbuckles (i.e. same size as stock)?
Tech Apprentice

MIP offers two kits that will do the whole truck, minus the servo to servo saver link. The kit includes Dubro rod ends and Lunsford TI turnbuckles.
I will warn you that they are "Lightweight" kits. I say this because, after ordering and receiving the kits, I opted to not install. Both the rod ends and turnbuckles are approx. half the size of the Losi stuff and I just didn't feel like they would ultimately be strong enough. I'm not saying size matters but, it was too gross a change for me to take a chance with. Also, the kit requires you to use spacers, because of the rod end size difference. You could CA the spacers in place but, if you don't, I can’t see how "quick" changes at the track will be much fun......you'll spend all your time on the floor looking for that stupid little spacer you just lost!
The above aside, does anyone else have experience with the MIP kits I mentioned? Or know of alternative rod ends that can be used with the Lunsford "Punisher" TI turnbuckles (i.e. same size as stock)?
I will warn you that they are "Lightweight" kits. I say this because, after ordering and receiving the kits, I opted to not install. Both the rod ends and turnbuckles are approx. half the size of the Losi stuff and I just didn't feel like they would ultimately be strong enough. I'm not saying size matters but, it was too gross a change for me to take a chance with. Also, the kit requires you to use spacers, because of the rod end size difference. You could CA the spacers in place but, if you don't, I can’t see how "quick" changes at the track will be much fun......you'll spend all your time on the floor looking for that stupid little spacer you just lost!
The above aside, does anyone else have experience with the MIP kits I mentioned? Or know of alternative rod ends that can be used with the Lunsford "Punisher" TI turnbuckles (i.e. same size as stock)?

I suppose ill just order a cheapo set off replacements and see if the rod ends get this type of play in them again.
Tech Initiate

I was looking at those MIP kits lastnight and half of the reviews ive found on them have mentioned stuff breaking, If this were anything but a 4x4 SCT i wouldnt be phased by it. But you know how stuff gets in SCT class. 
I suppose ill just order a cheapo set off replacements and see if the rod ends get this type of play in them again.

I suppose ill just order a cheapo set off replacements and see if the rod ends get this type of play in them again.
Honestly doesn't surprise me to hear that you've read that the MIP kits are not living up to the requirement. The kits include great qualtiy hardware but, way too small / inadequate for the job (my opinion of course).
I just finished rebuidling my entire truck with almost all new components...installed new Losi rod ends, the Al annodized balls, and Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles. Some play is still noticable but, it is much better than the previously worn items. While I'm always searching to shim stuff and eliminate play, I'm about ready to just live with the play


Stick with the stock stuff and the alum Hard anodize balls. They will develope slop over time but the will not break.
Tech Apprentice

Well I finally got the truck going again
I really like this truck.. I'm going to go over the truck and change some stuff I have to read up on some things. I want it to turn sharper on none banked turns seems like it pushes too easy.
And I might change the motor?
Right now I have a 3800 castle 4 pole I'm debating on the 4500 viper motor it seems pretty reasonable as far as cost.
Although I always wanted to try a sensored motor but not sure how well the castle momba max pro will work with that?

And I might change the motor?
Right now I have a 3800 castle 4 pole I'm debating on the 4500 viper motor it seems pretty reasonable as far as cost.
Although I always wanted to try a sensored motor but not sure how well the castle momba max pro will work with that?
Tech Apprentice

Anybody running the Tonys Screws screw kit? I need to pick one up because the previous owner had a big issue with stripping screws out.
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)

I admit it, I'm one of those guys who hates sloppy parts. Wheels that wobble and flop from extra play make it impossible for me to repeat settings for caster and toe. After swapping to the MIP steering rods a year ago I found myself replacing the ackerman plate often to take out slop. I have been looking for a ball bearing unit a long time. And those MIP steering rods are still going and have less slop than new stock rod ends and harden balls.
I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.
I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.
The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.
I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.
See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155322
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155320
I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.
I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.
The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.
I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.
See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155322
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...59&id=35155320
Last edited by Thunder Trail; 04-19-2014 at 07:24 AM.
Tech Apprentice

Looks pretty awesome! However your link is dead for me. 404 not found.
Thanks for the feedback on the screw kit Integra!
As for the rod ends, im gonna try the losi 8b 2.0 ends with the HA scte balls and see what happens.
Thanks for the feedback on the screw kit Integra!
As for the rod ends, im gonna try the losi 8b 2.0 ends with the HA scte balls and see what happens.

http://vision-racing.net/products.ht...=0&sort=normal
Thanks for that tip I ordered the shorty link so as to speed up and quicken steering to get under those Hekno Trucks. I'm rebuilding the front end completely so I'll update you all on how it goes. My experience is the slop has little or no effect on the way the car handles. So let's see what all the new parts do for it.
Thanks for that tip I ordered the shorty link so as to speed up and quicken steering to get under those Hekno Trucks. I'm rebuilding the front end completely so I'll update you all on how it goes. My experience is the slop has little or no effect on the way the car handles. So let's see what all the new parts do for it.
I admit it, I'm one of those guys who hates sloppy parts. Wheels that wobble and flop from extra play make it impossible for me to repeat settings for caster and toe. After swapping to the MIP steering rods a year ago I found myself replacing the ackerman plate often to take out slop. I have been looking for a ball bearing unit a long time. And those MIP steering rods are still going and have less slop than new stock rod ends and harden balls.
I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.
I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.
The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.
I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.
See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...=0&sort=normal
I first heard about these new Ball Bearing Ackerman Plates after looking for a carbon fiber plate that had less slop. They make a ball bearing ackerman plate set for the 8ight buggy, but nothing for the SCTE.
I tried to find my own solution while waiting for these to come to market. You will see my version in the picture below along with Vision Racing Carbon plates. I took a stock metal plate and drilled it for bearings and it worked good with nearly zero slop. Then I got my hands on the Vision plates with ball bearings and it was fantastic right from the start. NO SLOP and bolted on easy.
The longer plate bolts on and your done. For the short ackerman plate that I prefer you need to shave a small amount of material from the right side servo saver. It took me less than 30 seconds to do this. They kept the carbon as thick as possible for strength and I feel that was a good idea.
I have several races, practice days and a few crashes on the Vision ackerman plates on both my SCTE and Pro8. They have been flawless and still slop free. To top it all off, the cost of buying the Vision ackerman plate is cheaper than my version. After you buy bearings, the odd drill bit size and hardware you have invested more money and time than the cost of buying the Vision unit. That makes it a real winner for me.
See High Res Pics Here
http://www.vision-racing.net/product...=0&sort=normal

The currently available 8B 2.0 ends are very loose on the balls. I found this out when I bought some of the new ones. I started sending email to places that had LOSA6046 in stock asking if they had the new or the old style (I sent them the pic you see below for reference) and bought up what old ones I could find because the new ones are way looser.
