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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-27-2014, 03:16 AM
  #45931  
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anybody have a good setup for indoor carpet track? im having traction rolling problems real bad.or any help on traction rolling
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:36 AM
  #45932  
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Originally Posted by pfraser2488
anybody have a good setup for indoor carpet track? im having traction rolling problems real bad.or any help on traction rolling
More droop and more camber. Also get your roll center low as you can without chewing your chassis up. Usually not a problem on carpet tho.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:57 PM
  #45933  
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Originally Posted by pfraser2488
anybody have a good setup for indoor carpet track? im having traction rolling problems real bad.or any help on traction rolling
Originally Posted by Errokk
More droop and more camber. Also get your roll center low as you can without chewing your chassis up. Usually not a problem on carpet tho.
Less droop will help avoiding traction roll, not more. I agree with the rest, and also go with heavier sway bars, springs and shock oil and lower ride height than on any other surface.
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:45 PM
  #45934  
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Originally Posted by mv91pony
ok up so just wired up the hobbyking 120amp pro esc with a tekin 4600.kv motor and a spektrum 6040 servo.at first if you pun h the throttle on the ground the esc would have like a miss for a split sec and the steering would go left at same time and return. i rebound the rec. after second rebind and putting a novak cap on it.seems to be ok. anyone have the same thing happen? if so does it also need an external bec such as castle makes? or is it ok with the cap. i noticed in the past that it would do it once in a while with the rx8 gen 2 that was on it. but shuttin the transmitter off and on real quick seemed to remedy it every time. any input?
I have a 6030 and a glitch buster is all I've used on it. Its been flawless.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:29 PM
  #45935  
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Originally Posted by dtr
Less droop will help avoiding traction roll, not more. I agree with the rest, and also go with heavier sway bars, springs and shock oil and lower ride height than on any other surface.
I run this track he's referring to with excellent results running full droop, about 20mm ride height rear and 24 up front, stock shock pistons with 37.5wt losi in front with 32.5wt losi in the rear. Works flawlessly!
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:05 AM
  #45936  
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If you are looking to stop traction rolling, you will need to reduce droop. In Errokk's case, the ride height is what is reducing the traction rolling most likely. Tires obviously are huge as well. A set of aggressive dBoots nanoBytes or something like that will make traction rolling more prevalent. CA glue around the side wall of both front tires can help to a certain extent too. You could also try removing a single row of pins around the outside edge of the front tires.
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:28 PM
  #45937  
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Ok Fellas...I bought a used,in very nice shape, scte version one. Without going through 3000 pages whats a quick overview of upgrades?

Also is the BCS chasiss really a big deal. I heard a rumor that the bend like a banana.
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:43 PM
  #45938  
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Originally Posted by Kaw1000
Ok Fellas...I bought a used,in very nice shape, scte version one. Without going through 3000 pages whats a quick overview of upgrades?

Also is the BCS chasiss really a big deal. I heard a rumor that the bend like a banana.
Don't know what the BCS chassis is, but the BCE is super solid with no bending at all even after terrible landings and full speed head-on crashes into poles....

I've just re-read the 3000 pages for you and here's a quick summary of the notes I've taken...

No upgrades needed until things eventually wear/bend.

Suggested setup upgrades:
- some racing springs/oil to suit your setup
- shock caps with bleeder screws to enable emulsion shock setup
- some like the APE battery tray to lower & move the battery position

Suggested convenience upgrades:
- HD diff cases (prevents diff oil leakage)

Suggested durability upgrades:
- alternate tougher/lighter chassis (BCE, TLR, Kingshead, Jammin, Bump, MIP, BCE Hybrid - just don't ask "Which is better?" ).
- carbon towers - maybe consider the ones from the SCTE 2.0 as they have a couple of extra positions
- TLR shock caps with bleed screw (for emulsion shocks)
- HD outdrives (when the originals get dented)
- Kingshead Centre driveshaft pin keepers, or Tekno centre driveshafts (integrated pin keeper)
- Some like the Kingshead double bearing centre diff support and/or motor support, some don't feel the wobble is an issue
- HD Ball set and new plastic rod ends to reduce slop (cannot eliminate slop)

Suggested free upgrades:
- lighten battery tray by cutting parts out
- lower ESC by cutting off that section of battery tray and mounting ESC directly on chassis
- cut holes in body (or use alternate body) to reduce parachute effect
- cut off nerf bars (side bumpers) as these tend to damage body
- cut off outer sections of rear bumper as these tend to damage body
- spend time at track to improve driving skills

Hope this helps you.
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:00 PM
  #45939  
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Originally Posted by eddomak
Don't know what the BCS chassis is, but the BCE is super solid with no bending at all even after terrible landings and full speed head-on crashes into poles....

I've just re-read the 3000 pages for you and here's a quick summary of the notes I've taken...

No upgrades needed until things eventually wear/bend.

Suggested setup upgrades:
- some racing springs/oil to suit your setup
- shock caps with bleeder screws to enable emulsion shock setup
- some like the APE battery tray to lower & move the battery position

Suggested convenience upgrades:
- HD diff cases (prevents diff oil leakage)

Suggested durability upgrades:
- alternate tougher/lighter chassis (BCE, TLR, Kingshead, Jammin, Bump, MIP, BCE Hybrid - just don't ask "Which is better?" ).
- carbon towers - maybe consider the ones from the SCTE 2.0 as they have a couple of extra positions
- TLR shock caps with bleed screw (for emulsion shocks)
- HD outdrives (when the originals get dented)
- Kingshead Centre driveshaft pin keepers, or Tekno centre driveshafts (integrated pin keeper)
- Some like the Kingshead double bearing centre diff support and/or motor support, some don't feel the wobble is an issue
- HD Ball set and new plastic rod ends to reduce slop (cannot eliminate slop)

Suggested free upgrades:
- lighten battery tray by cutting parts out
- lower ESC by cutting off that section of battery tray and mounting ESC directly on chassis
- cut holes in body (or use alternate body) to reduce parachute effect
- cut off nerf bars (side bumpers) as these tend to damage body
- cut off outer sections of rear bumper as these tend to damage body
- spend time at track to improve driving skills

Hope this helps you.

Sweet!!! You must have taken a great speed reading course!!!
So what exactly does the BCE chassis do?? Lighter? lower center of gravity?
better handling? Thanks for tips!!
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:04 AM
  #45940  
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Originally Posted by Kaw1000
Sweet!!! You must have taken a great speed reading course!!!
So what exactly does the BCE chassis do?? Lighter? lower center of gravity?
better handling? Thanks for tips!!
if you get the bce h1 chassis for the scte 1.0 and also the the 2.0 battery tray you can center the drive train like the 2.0. you swap the frnt an rr diff drives i run the tlr chassis all hott racing parts and a king heads double bearing center diff mount and a mip bypass kit in the shocks. truck is dialed. the tlr spring kit and tires are key pieces to the handling first off. also instead of cutting nerfs off. get some lexan and cut it to fit under each side of the truck in between both frnt n rr tires and out to edge of the body. and zip tie to top of nerfs. this will prevent alot of air getting into the body in the air. tekno has them for the 410. it works.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:43 PM
  #45941  
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Originally Posted by mv91pony
ok up so just wired up the hobbyking 120amp pro esc with a tekin 4600.kv motor and a spektrum 6040 servo.at first if you pun h the throttle on the ground the esc would have like a miss for a split sec and the steering would go left at same time and return. i rebound the rec. after second rebind and putting a novak cap on it.seems to be ok. anyone have the same thing happen? if so does it also need an external bec such as castle makes? or is it ok with the cap. i noticed in the past that it would do it once in a while with the rx8 gen 2 that was on it. but shuttin the transmitter off and on real quick seemed to remedy it every time. any input?
Sometimes it is actually the radio and rec. f you use a spectrum system they tend to have problems with some high power servos and some cheaper radios as well.Also when was the last time you tried a different sensor wire? just
a couple of thoughts! Cheers!
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:35 AM
  #45942  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Sometimes it is actually the radio and rec. f you use a spectrum system they tend to have problems with some high power servos and some cheaper radios as well.Also when was the last time you tried a different sensor wire? just
a couple of thoughts! Cheers!
yes i notice when theres a flysky radio on the stand with spektrum.(i run dx3s) i sometimes have probs. truck has new sensor wire and a novak buster on it. i seems to be ok. i run a spektrum 6040 on it as well. we will see at motorama in 2 weeks. 1000 plus racers lol. thatll be the test.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:48 AM
  #45943  
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Newish to electric as I just got rid of all my nitro. I am going to pick up a scte kit in next couple days. I know they use 1/8 scale electronics. I already have a castle 2650kv and the momba monster ESC I can pull from something else. My question is this. I want to get back in racing. They allow only 2cell. The bigger motors have lower kV ratings useally which would make it slower right? Some people are running lighter trucks with 4000 kV motors which will produce way higher rpm per volt. I just don't know enouph yet, but would this put me at a disadvantage? Have a Jr 9100 servo for it and everything else I need, and it will save a lot of money for tires and such if I can use this motor.
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Old 02-09-2014, 02:45 PM
  #45944  
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Originally Posted by morkendi
Newish to electric as I just got rid of all my nitro. I am going to pick up a scte kit in next couple days. I know they use 1/8 scale electronics. I already have a castle 2650kv and the momba monster ESC I can pull from something else. My question is this. I want to get back in racing. They allow only 2cell. The bigger motors have lower kV ratings useally which would make it slower right? Some people are running lighter trucks with 4000 kV motors which will produce way higher rpm per volt. I just don't know enouph yet, but would this put me at a disadvantage? Have a Jr 9100 servo for it and everything else I need, and it will save a lot of money for tires and such if I can use this motor.
With 2 cell, most people are running 4-pole 4000kv - 4600kv motors (ie higher RPM) with a 13T-15T pinion gear (based on the standard spur of 40T). With such a low KV motor you will probably need to up the pinion gear to 18T-20T to get the same top speed. I don't race, so can't advise if you'd be at a disavantage.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:38 AM
  #45945  
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Originally Posted by morkendi
Newish to electric as I just got rid of all my nitro. I am going to pick up a scte kit in next couple days. I know they use 1/8 scale electronics. I already have a castle 2650kv and the momba monster ESC I can pull from something else. My question is this. I want to get back in racing. They allow only 2cell. The bigger motors have lower kV ratings useally which would make it slower right? Some people are running lighter trucks with 4000 kV motors which will produce way higher rpm per volt. I just don't know enouph yet, but would this put me at a disadvantage? Have a Jr 9100 servo for it and everything else I need, and it will save a lot of money for tires and such if I can use this motor.
If you're gonna race, you'll have to run a 2s battery and either a 2 pole 550 can motor or 4 pole 540 can. 1/8th scale motors aren't legal. Unless you're gonna race at a track that allows unlimited modifications? If so.... I WANT IN!!!
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