Casper

iTrader: (34)

Not sure anyone could list 10 issues with this truck. Not say it is perfect but Ryan and TLR did a really good job cleaning up the issues from the 1.0 with the 2.0. Truck is pretty stout out of the box and the handling was improved with new chassis layout and some new camber options on the shock towers (another hop up not meantioned yet).

The 2.0 is a little more expensive up front but even with a deal on the 1.0 after you "hop it up" I think you would still save some serious coin with the 2.0 and not have to go through all that extra work.

SupaMan

Well i thank you all for the insight, Im still unsure if i can do 600-700 bucks (truck, power system ect) right off the bat, But if i can im going too.

Ive noticed that some people as well as (Big Squid RC) are running the Sidewinder SCT power system, However Castle says that its only good for trucks up to 6.5lbs, From what im finding the SCTE is around 6.5-6.75? So do i steer clear of this setup? Any recommendations?

SupaMan

You mention HPI screws? Exactly which screws are they and why? I thought i read something about the scte 1.0 having this problem and the fix was an HPI screw kit. Is it the same deal on the 2.0?

TheRcworld101

iTrader: (15)

I am looking to buy a losi scte 1.0 I really like it even though that the 2.0 is better.I am willing to work with it, any car will win with a proper tune set up.Anyway... I was thinking of this losi scte roller,carbon front and center plate,tlr tuning kit and tlr flex tune chassis or mip chassi.That's my question the mip chassis or the tlr flex tune chassis both are good I just need help on choosing?? anyone have either please tell me what you think of them??

socal23

iTrader: (112)

Pick up a used 1.0 with the mip kit. They did the job right in the first place. Tlr utilized some of the stuff that mip did with there kit. There are a few nice 1.0 sctes on here with the mip kit. I have a scte with the mip kit and I also have a box stock rtr scte. Club level to bigger races in sports man classes. The 1.0 will do the job and is very tough. The only thing I've ever broke on my 1.0 is the bumpers witch is usual in sct just get the rpm or tbone ones and I've broke a few shock tops which buying used might already have one or you can get the tlr kit it is still on sale I think. And you can drill the holes yourself to move the difference back if you see fit. A lot of people have done it. Or the mip kit does it for you. Imho if your not going pro there is nothing wrong with the 1.0 and even if pro it's still a very good truck. Get shurated wheel nuts they tend to spin off. Other then that I've put both of my trucks through some bad wrecks and nothing but a cracked body has came of it. And if you see fit you can get the hd diffs they are cheap. Good luck

tc5 man

I would look into a MIP SCTE 1.0 roller or one with the electronics on it on here one that a racer has owned. You can find them for cheap.

I been running the MIP SCTE with the TLR towers and it just handles good compared to a original 1.0 with a Flex chassis like i had .

anteatereater

I just bought the older 1.0 roller cause it's a great deal now that 2.0 is out, and it gave me the opportunity with the funds i had at the time to get it and the Tekin motor and electronics, plus the servo i wanted right away. I'm new to racing and just run it at a club level anyways, and as i improve i will just add the MIP chassis and or TLR handling upgrades, but for now i think this is all i need to learn to be a better driver

dtr

I've been running that system for two years quite successfully on both outdoor and indoor tracks. The BEC is not strong enough whith good traction, so I recommend a HV servo fed directly from the battery. I also run a 40mm fan over the esc, temps were never above 45°C (113°F) after 10 mins.

z449 for both the old and new diffs. The original screws strip too easily for many, even with quality hex drivers.

Crash Test Dumy

iTrader: (4)

Hey Guys,

Just got my Black Fri. 1.0. I have a question about the rear diff. I was pulling the rear diff apart to clean out the grease and when starting to reassemble I noticed the washers between the O ring and the side gear are different. One is flat and the other is beveled on one side and has a groove on the other side. Can you tell me which side of the diff the flat washer goes on? The manual doesn't make a distinction
Looking forward to running a real SC
Thanks
Brian

Tas4

iTrader: (18)

I have a scte 1.0 that i'm going to be running with a tekin sc4x 5.5 just wondering what settings I should put in the speed control it's the mamba be running on a tight indoor track .

dtr

Those are wear marks from the edge of the outdrive bushings, so the worn side faces outside. If they are deep it's time to replace them.

socal23

iTrader: (112)

[QUOTE=dirt42fan;12797262]I have an MIP SCTE xxxxxxxxx.

mods will hit you with a infraction for posting something fs in this thread. Just a fyi

mv91pony

got a. quess about the kingheads dual bearing center diff mount. will this take the slop out of the outdrives? i have rebuilt them and reshimmed the diff. does the slop lie in the mount or in the diff itself. feels like the diff when installed. also thinkin of getting full line of hot racing upgrades. they worth it?

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Yes is does but also upgrading to the newer style cups helps alot as well.And for aluminum hops ups?Or any other for that matter
Buy more tires,track time,batteries,chassis or start saving it up and get a 2.0!!!

mv91pony

i did very well with my last 1.0 on the track. also agree that tires are key also. just tryin not spend where not needed. shock piston and sping advice? mostly indoor clay and carpet now til spring. bought it used for a steal. it does have tlr carbon towers.