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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-12-2013, 02:02 PM
  #45271  
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
There is no real trick to ride height. It's a tuning option just like any other. Mine is currently set lower in the front than the rear. For example, if you are running on a high bite track where everyone is squawking tires around the corners and there are fast 180's, you are not going to be fast running a ride height of 30mm front or rear. If nothing else, traction rolling will be a problem. Dropping a couple of mm's ride height can make a big difference.


When you say High traction do you mean clay or a dry track with Blue grove forming in ?

I only raced on one outdoor track for the first time that had a 180 chicane turn so it would make sense to make the Front and Rear lower. Never traction roll though .

So i know what to do when i go back to that track.
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Old 06-12-2013, 03:00 PM
  #45272  
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You'll know high traction when you encounter it. My truck was a bit too loose this last weekend so I tried sauce all the way across my pressure points and it was on rails. I'd been either saucing only the inner half of the tires or not saucing at all. In most of the hairpins, especially early in the race, the inside rear tire was lifting on corner entry. This is obviously the first sign of an impending traction roll. I tried only saucing the inner half again but I still had a few traction rolls. Dropping the ride height a couple mm's front and rear was the ticket. A droop reduction or camber increase would have worked as well.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:28 AM
  #45273  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Sounds like a to heavy on shock /to soft springs. Try some Silver colored black Springs on the Rear and the Front Blue or Black Front springs these are the raceing springs.
My wife bought me the Mip kit for Father's Day, I hope all the issues go bye bye.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:56 PM
  #45274  
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Warning, long post ahead with 2 main (possibly stupid) questions

I'm giving the Ryan Dunford setup ( http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...ford-02_12.pdf ) a try, but to me it feels like the shocks are way too soft, especially the rear since he's using a 4 piston with bigger holes there (and 27.5wt oil is already quite thin inmho)... For a high traction track, to me it feels like the car has too much body roll, not enough pack and the rear breaks loose.

[Question 1 : ]
Does anyone know a tuning guide "in reverse" - so instead of "camber : front camber increase results in blah" more like "Suddenly losing rear traction / rear breaks loose : try less anti-squat or blahblahblah"

Right now I have a lot of off power steering and the rear breaks loose, and not so much on power steering.
I have tons of tuning guides (elvo, hudy, petitrc, losi's SCTE 2.0 etc.) but there's so much info it's hard to filter out what exactly I could try to fix my current problems.

Also, maybe another stupid question :
after running my car for a while and taking it off the track, I found my motor (Hobbywing 3656SD 4-pole sensored) was running hot - as in, I could touch it for maybe 2 - 3 seconds but then it was too hot.
This is 1 or 2 seconds short of the "4 seconds test" people mention on the interwebtubes. I'm running 15t pinion on 39t mip spur so I don't think I'm geared too high.

[Question 2 : ]
Is this temperature normal / acceptable, or should I be looking at my soldering connections or anything else ? (I do believe nothing is binding in my drivetrain)

Last edited by Pygmy; 06-13-2013 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:24 PM
  #45275  
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
Warning, long post ahead with 2 main questions

I'm giving the Ryan Dunford setup ( http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...ford-02_12.pdf ) a try, but to me it feels like the shocks are way too soft, especially the rear since he's using a 4 piston with bigger holes there (and 27.5wt oil is already quite thin inmho)... For a high traction track, to me it feels like the car has too much body roll, not enough pack and the rear breaks loose.

Maybe a stupid question, but
[1]does anyone know a tuning guide "in reverse" - so instead of "camber : front camber increase results in blah" more like "Suddenly losing rear traction / rear breaks loose : try less anti-squat or blahblahblah"

Right now I have a lot of off power steering and the rear breaks loose, and not so much on power steering.
I have tons of tuning guides (elvo, hudy, petitrc, losi's SCTE 2.0 etc.) but there's so much info it's hard to filter out what exactly I could try to fix my current problems.

Also, maybe another stupid question :
after running my car for a while and taking it off the track, I found my motor (Hobbywing 3656SD 4-pole sensored) was running hot - as in, I could touch it for maybe 2 - 3 seconds but then it was too hot.
This is 1 or 2 seconds short of the "4 seconds test" people mention on the interwebtubes. I'm running 15t pinion on 39t mip spur so I don't think I'm geared too high.
[2]Is this temperature normal / acceptable, or should I be looking at my soldering connections or anything else ? (I do believe nothing is binding in my drivetrain)
Do u have the 4000 or the 4700? I have the 4000 with a 15 pinion and my motor barely gets warm after 10min. I would inspect all drive train bearings and maybe look at your speedo punch settings. Lower punch = lower temp. I would also look at taking the motor apart and blowing it out with canned air and cleaning/inspecting/lubing the motor bearings.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:26 PM
  #45276  
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Originally Posted by Derry View Post
Do u have the 4000 or the 4700? I have the 4000 with a 15 pinion and my motor barely gets warm after 10min. I would inspect all drive train bearings and maybe look at your speedo punch settings. Lower punch = lower temp.
I have the 4700kv. My brother is running the 4000kv and it's not getting as hot as mine.

EDIT: I do think I have the punch on my HW SCT Pro Esc set to 6 or 7 though. You might be on to something, maybe I should try to back down on the punch again.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:10 PM
  #45277  
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Wheel spin = higher motor temps. That plus your extra punch (more wheel spin) and the stouter motor are probably going to give you more heat. You also need a temp sensor. You can run up to 180 or so. Your finger may not be gauged to read 180 (add funny emoticon here).

The reverse tuning guide: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ng-racing.html
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:35 PM
  #45278  
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Wheel spin = higher motor temps. That plus your extra punch (more wheel spin) and the stouter motor are probably going to give you more heat. You also need a temp sensor. You can run up to 180 or so. Your finger may not be gauged to read 180 (add funny emoticon here).

The reverse tuning guide: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ng-racing.html
Cheers, thanks for the advice. I really do believe I have to turn down the punch and the temp gauge is in the mail.

According to the "Understanding tuning" guide I need more anti-squat for better on-power-steering, but I've got quite a lot anti-squat as is using the TLR thingies. There must be a lot more I'm doing wrong
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:50 PM
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Are you on a relatively high bite track? Are you wearing out the front tires before the rears? You might need higher center diff oil weight. I've increased oil weights front and center and I get more exit steering. That setup also runs a TON of droop in the front which is going to transfer a lot of weight off the front tires under acceleration and onto the back. Try taking away a little of the droop in the front, either by screwing the shock bottoms back in or adjusting the front droop screws. And, you know this, one adjustment at a time.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:01 PM
  #45280  
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Pro setups are a good start but a lot of times they dont fit regular Joe drivers like me and others so a lot of times you just got to do your own adjusting and what fits you at one thing at a time. Most Factory drivers also race a lot more than us also .


But one thing i did notice is this truck jumps a whole lot better with the Rear shocks mounted into the middle holes on the arms, with the top of the shock mounted into the middle hole on tower.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:41 AM
  #45281  
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Stripped the screw heads in a few of the diff screws... I know the awareness of this problem has been beaten to death but my question is a two parter:

1. Any creative revelations on how to get those stripped screw heads out? I was thinking of picking up the micro screw extractor set from sears but I am not sure the smallest extractor bit is small enough... maybe just some left hand drill bits will do the trick...

2. what are the best tool brand hex drivers to keep those screws intacted? I use some Wiha ball drivers now and they are just chewing the screws up. I used the included L shaped allen key but that loosened up pretty quick. Associated Factory team hex drivers set was recommended to me but I wanted to get any feedback here before I dropped the $50.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:26 AM
  #45282  
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Stripped the head on one of my front diff screws. I took my dremel and used the cutoff wheel to cut a groove into the screw so I could use a flat head screw driver to take it out. It did put a little groove in the ring gear as a side effect but not enough to structurally damage the gear at all.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:11 AM
  #45283  
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Originally Posted by merkyworks View Post
Stripped the head on one of my front diff screws. I took my dremel and used the cutoff wheel to cut a groove into the screw so I could use a flat head screw driver to take it out. It did put a little groove in the ring gear as a side effect but not enough to structurally damage the gear at all.
Good option. I tried, but half of my bad screw heads are on the rear diff and the ring gear is in the way of the cut-off disk. maybe if I cut a cut-off disk down a bit to reduce the size I can get it to fit. worth a shot...
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:07 AM
  #45284  
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APE Battery Trays Are Back In Stock!!!!

Thanks for your patience!


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Old 06-18-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by reckboy View Post
Stripped the screw heads in a few of the diff screws... I know the awareness of this problem has been beaten to death but my question is a two parter:

1. Any creative revelations on how to get those stripped screw heads out? I was thinking of picking up the micro screw extractor set from sears but I am not sure the smallest extractor bit is small enough... maybe just some left hand drill bits will do the trick...

2. what are the best tool brand hex drivers to keep those screws intacted? I use some Wiha ball drivers now and they are just chewing the screws up. I used the included L shaped allen key but that loosened up pretty quick. Associated Factory team hex drivers set was recommended to me but I wanted to get any feedback here before I dropped the $50.
get rid of the ball type allen's go with MIP, Losi, Huddy or the pink handles dynamite's or the blue handled team intregy. Spelling sorry to lazy to go look sets from 20 to 100 bucks
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