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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 05-06-2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by george919 View Post
Can some of you list the upgrades I can do to help the truck handle better and make it lighter?

#1 Thing is adding the TLR flex chassis with the rear torque rod and stock plastic Front brace. Hopmeup .com has the chassis for $47.00 ! Carbon towers Front and rear . Gold coated Hinge pins, and good tires , Doing the shocks as Emousion style helps on Bumpy tracks mainly though but there easyer to bleed and set Rebound.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroLeadFinger View Post
Some rubbing alcohol or simple green works too. A solvent may eat the plastic. If you will be in the diffs, might as well epoxy the hex inserts to the cases while you are in there, or opt for the HD diff cases and never look back. Also be gentle with the diff case screws, I think they are a 1/16" driver.
What hex inserts are you speaking of?
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by losi007 View Post
When you say 70% limiter is that the 4th or 5th light on the rx8?
I wish I knew, I use hotwire on all my rigs.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
#1 Thing is adding the TLR flex chassis with the rear torque rod and stock plastic Front brace. Hopmeup .com has the chassis for $47.00 ! Carbon towers Front and rear . Gold coated Hinge pins, and good tires , Doing the shocks as Emousion style helps on Bumpy tracks mainly though but there easyer to bleed and set Rebound.
Is the 2.0 chassis compatible with the version 1?
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 View Post
What are the hex pieces your talking about? Thanks,
Dan
Once you get inside the cases you will see what im talking about. You also might do a thread search for the term "leaky diff" and it will explain all the details. The whole goal is to seal up the diffs so they don't leak, which will help them survive longer. The new HD cases do not have this issue. FYI

I think this was gone into GREAT detail somewhere back on page 2122 LOL
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...read-2122.html
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by george919 View Post
Is the 2.0 chassis compatible with the version 1?


I dont think it is . But on the 1.0 do move the battery toward the rear with the spacers makes the handling better !
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:47 PM
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Taking the front sway bar off helps the steering a lot!
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by george919 View Post
Is the 2.0 chassis compatible with the version 1?
Yes but you have to replace most everything on the chassis. The center diff mount and motor mount are about the only thing you keep. The center drive shafts are just switched. the front and rear clips are the same.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
#1 Thing is adding the TLR flex chassis with the rear torque rod and stock plastic Front brace. Hopmeup .com has the chassis for $47.00 ! Carbon towers Front and rear . Gold coated Hinge pins, and good tires , Doing the shocks as Emousion style helps on Bumpy tracks mainly though but there easyer to bleed and set Rebound.
+1 I added these goody's to mine, not really to make it faster, but to make it more reliable and consistent. Any "flex" type 7075-T6 chassis is a big help in that department, and the longer rear brace helps hold everything together if you case the jumps. That being said, and all hype aside - I never did bend or damage the stock chassis, even on some 'very rough' laps.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:06 PM
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What do you guys think about the MIP Pro4mance kit?

Also, what can I do to enhance traction and handling?

My track is really dusty and loose.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:23 PM
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im putting the diff back together and i am a little worried about these screws to hold the diff together. they are stripped or anything but in order to get the screws to sit flush with the case (they are countersunk) i have to put a pretty good amount of force into turning them. they are all in now but the gears are a little notchy (DECENT by my standards but not smooth) is there a trick to getting this case sandwiched together with out alittle binding?
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 View Post
im putting the diff back together and i am a little worried about these screws to hold the diff together. they are stripped or anything but in order to get the screws to sit flush with the case (they are countersunk) i have to put a pretty good amount of force into turning them. they are all in now but the gears are a little notchy (DECENT by my standards but not smooth) is there a trick to getting this case sandwiched together with out alittle binding?
New gears? How old is the truck? You put the blue gasket back in right? You need to make sure the square blocks are all the way seated.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by george919 View Post
What do you guys think about the MIP Pro4mance kit?

Also, what can I do to enhance traction and handling?

My track is really dusty and loose.


The track i race at outdoors is dusty and loose also. MIP kit i dont like the color of it personally and you have to use the MIP towers and drill a extra hole like the Losi towers. It will however change the handling competely because you dont use the radio box and other things. But yea with the center diff toward the rear it will help a ton on dry dirt .



But moving the battery toward the rear helps a lot on loose tracks traction wise and jumping. Softer springs and lighter shock oil , lighter diff oils , Front or Rear shocks mounted into the middle hole on the arms.

If you already dont have the Carbon towers etc than i would go with the MIP if you already do get the TLR chassis or the Kingheadz , Bump chassis etc.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:35 PM
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well the i put the screws in then forgot i needed to put the spur on (im doing the center) but it didnt damage the case from what i can tell because the screws went in good once i had the spur on but its still notchy?! the gears arent to worn out, the wholes lined up through blue gasket so im assuming that its in right... ill open it again and push on the blocks to make sure everything is seated but i think it is...

EDIT: it gets smoother when i back out the screws about an 1/8th of a turn so they are just snug, but will that cause it to leak?
i could have just had the screws to tight

thanks,
dan
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by george919 View Post
What do you guys think about the MIP Pro4mance kit?

Also, what can I do to enhance traction and handling?

My track is really dusty and loose.
Great kit, very well.engineered. transforms the truck.
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