Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

#1 Thing is adding the TLR flex chassis with the rear torque rod and stock plastic Front brace. Hopmeup .com has the chassis for $47.00 ! Carbon towers Front and rear . Gold coated Hinge pins, and good tires , Doing the shocks as Emousion style helps on Bumpy tracks mainly though but there easyer to bleed and set Rebound.

Some rubbing alcohol or simple green works too. A solvent may eat the plastic. If you will be in the diffs, might as well epoxy the hex inserts to the cases while you are in there, or opt for the HD diff cases and never look back. Also be gentle with the diff case screws, I think they are a 1/16" driver.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)

#1 Thing is adding the TLR flex chassis with the rear torque rod and stock plastic Front brace. Hopmeup .com has the chassis for $47.00 ! Carbon towers Front and rear . Gold coated Hinge pins, and good tires , Doing the shocks as Emousion style helps on Bumpy tracks mainly though but there easyer to bleed and set Rebound.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)

Once you get inside the cases you will see what im talking about. You also might do a thread search for the term "leaky diff" and it will explain all the details. The whole goal is to seal up the diffs so they don't leak, which will help them survive longer. The new HD cases do not have this issue. FYI
I think this was gone into GREAT detail somewhere back on page 2122 LOL
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...read-2122.html
I think this was gone into GREAT detail somewhere back on page 2122 LOL
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...read-2122.html

Taking the front sway bar off helps the steering a lot!

Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)

#1 Thing is adding the TLR flex chassis with the rear torque rod and stock plastic Front brace. Hopmeup .com has the chassis for $47.00 ! Carbon towers Front and rear . Gold coated Hinge pins, and good tires , Doing the shocks as Emousion style helps on Bumpy tracks mainly though but there easyer to bleed and set Rebound.

What do you guys think about the MIP Pro4mance kit?
Also, what can I do to enhance traction and handling?
My track is really dusty and loose.
Also, what can I do to enhance traction and handling?
My track is really dusty and loose.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)

im putting the diff back together and i am a little worried about these screws to hold the diff together. they are stripped or anything but in order to get the screws to sit flush with the case (they are countersunk) i have to put a pretty good amount of force into turning them. they are all in now but the gears are a little notchy (DECENT by my standards but not smooth) is there a trick to getting this case sandwiched together with out alittle binding?

im putting the diff back together and i am a little worried about these screws to hold the diff together. they are stripped or anything but in order to get the screws to sit flush with the case (they are countersunk) i have to put a pretty good amount of force into turning them. they are all in now but the gears are a little notchy (DECENT by my standards but not smooth) is there a trick to getting this case sandwiched together with out alittle binding?

The track i race at outdoors is dusty and loose also. MIP kit i dont like the color of it personally and you have to use the MIP towers and drill a extra hole like the Losi towers. It will however change the handling competely because you dont use the radio box and other things. But yea with the center diff toward the rear it will help a ton on dry dirt .
But moving the battery toward the rear helps a lot on loose tracks traction wise and jumping. Softer springs and lighter shock oil , lighter diff oils , Front or Rear shocks mounted into the middle hole on the arms.
If you already dont have the Carbon towers etc than i would go with the MIP if you already do get the TLR chassis or the Kingheadz , Bump chassis etc.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)

well the i put the screws in then forgot i needed to put the spur on (im doing the center) but it didnt damage the case from what i can tell because the screws went in good once i had the spur on but its still notchy?! the gears arent to worn out, the wholes lined up through blue gasket so im assuming that its in right... ill open it again and push on the blocks to make sure everything is seated but i think it is...
EDIT: it gets smoother when i back out the screws about an 1/8th of a turn so they are just snug, but will that cause it to leak?
i could have just had the screws to tight
thanks,
dan
EDIT: it gets smoother when i back out the screws about an 1/8th of a turn so they are just snug, but will that cause it to leak?
i could have just had the screws to tight
thanks,
dan