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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 04-18-2013, 07:44 PM
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14T is too small for that 4000. I'm running a 15T on my 4600 outdoor and 13-14T indoor. You need to go up to at least a 16T to keep that motor happy. 4 pole motors do not like to over rev.

Originally Posted by diseasehunter View Post
Guys I ran my new tekin pro4 4000kv and rx8 this last weekend. I am using a 14t and the standard on the center diff. I was using nanotech 65c 6000mah batteries. I had the same set up with mmp and 1410 (36000kv I belive) set up, but this time I had my temps for the pro4 at 205 after a 12 min run (possible 15 min run). Granted I know I was running a long time, but I never had temps like that on the castle stuff. Loved the way the tekin handled, the extra power and smoothness that I saw. Need to figure out how to lover the temps. The rx8 was no more than 120.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:49 PM
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Honestly, I've never tried it. It kind of defeats the purpose though. If you weigh the battery and ESC they weigh about the same amount per inch of length. Swapping them back and forth won't really change the CG much if at all. I always run the tray in my truck all the way back with the ESC all the way against the rear suspension holder.

Originally Posted by mojo 309 View Post
Chris
I got my ape battery tray for my scte today thank you for the fast shipping,i was reading the post where chucko installed it with the esc up front and he said it works really well for him.So i am going to try that way my self, my question is does it bolt right up with the esc up front or is there a mod that needs to be done?and i am guessing the battery needs to be all the way back on the tray to get the weight to the rear end? or is there some tuning tips you can offer to get everything right. Thanks
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:19 PM
  #44628  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
14T is too small for that 4000. I'm running a 15T on my 4600 outdoor and 13-14T indoor. You need to go up to at least a 16T to keep that motor happy. 4 pole motors do not like to over rev.
I dont know about that i run a 14t and a 15t at times and notice the decrease in torque at the 15t . Im still getting temps of 175 average and maybe its because my tires are spinning oit too much on the straightaways i can almost hear it
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:22 PM
  #44629  
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I kind of had the opposite feel on my 4600kv Tenshock using a 15t pinion on a big outdoor it felt like it had enough Top end, and it could still clear jumps but it seemed to lack that run up to the jumps. This is with no timing or punch control pretty much Blinky mode.

I should of checked the motor temp but it was only 58 degress Outside and on dry dirt with a Heatsink. And no binding so the temps had to be fine.

So i used a 14t pinion and it was better for sure still had enough top end.
On a tight Indoor track i used a 13t though.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by losi007 View Post
I am also at 180 temp on my 4600 / rx8 combo 14t and cannot seem to figure out how to lower temps. I run 17minutes on a medium outdoor track. Any help would be appreciated
I don't use that combo, but have been hanging around on this thread for quite some time now. In the past when this topic has come up, Casper has chimed in to say the Pro4 is good for up to constant 200 degrees F without any damage.

Search is generally useless on this thread, but you might be able to find the exact information with "Tekin Pro4 200" etc...
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:43 PM
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Anyone know how to tell the ring and pinion are bad in the front or rear gearbox? Im getting a clicking sound when i brake but not when i throttle up?
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by losi007 View Post
Anyone know how to tell the ring and pinion are bad in the front or rear gearbox? Im getting a clicking sound when i brake but not when i throttle up?



Odds are its the small bearings that go into the diff case thats on the ring and pinion are bad . I had a couple go bad on me on high traction tracks with to high of Brake EPA.


How can you tell if the ring gear is bad is when you install new bearings and have the axle couple tight and you can feel a lot of play than its time for a new ring pinion gear.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:55 PM
  #44633  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Odds are its the small bearings that go into the diff case thats on the ring and pinion are bad . I had a couple go bad on me on high traction tracks with to high of Brake EPA.


How can you tell if the ring gear is bad is when you install new bearings and have the axle couple tight and you can feel a lot of play than its time for a new ring pinion gear.
I was told it may be the bearing i opened the gearbox and inspected the bearing today what i did notice is the center of the bearing seemed to be sticking out a bit not flush with the outer part. I even was able to push the center almost out it seemed. What i did was switch the two out reversed that seemed to fix the issue 90% at least now its not as loud and it doesnt make the clacking sound when i reverse but its still there (lightly) when im braking at high speeds.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
Yes it can. chucko did it to his truck:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10959087-post36746.html
You said earlier that you tried it out but it changed balance just 1%.
Edit: You replied to that already.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by losi007 View Post
I was told it may be the bearing i opened the gearbox and inspected the bearing today what i did notice is the center of the bearing seemed to be sticking out a bit not flush with the outer part. I even was able to push the center almost out it seemed. What i did was switch the two out reversed that seemed to fix the issue 90% at least now its not as loud and it doesnt make the clacking sound when i reverse but its still there (lightly) when im braking at high speeds.
Check the rear bearings often. Avid for example makes a great bearing set.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:39 AM
  #44636  
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I never tried it with a production tray. My prototype had the esc in the front, but it still moved the esc and battery back 3/4". The production trays cannot be flipped AND moved back that far.


Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
You said earlier that you tried it out but it changed balance just 1%.
Edit: You replied to that already.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:52 AM
  #44637  
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Originally Posted by losi007 View Post
I was told it may be the bearing i opened the gearbox and inspected the bearing today what i did notice is the center of the bearing seemed to be sticking out a bit not flush with the outer part. I even was able to push the center almost out it seemed. What i did was switch the two out reversed that seemed to fix the issue 90% at least now its not as loud and it doesnt make the clacking sound when i reverse but its still there (lightly) when im braking at high speeds.
You went to all the trouble of switching the bearings but you should have replaced them..
Those bearings are subjected to both spin and side loads and they do wear out.
The bigger issue is having them grenade and spread bits of metal all thru the diff case and start chewing up gears and such.
But a bearing set from Boca or Acer or Losi you WILL need to replace a lot of bearings over the long haul.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:48 AM
  #44638  
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I have been reading thru this HUGE thread and really appreciate all the expertise offered. I was planning on ordering either the TEN SCTE roller or an Axial Exo Terra Buggy kit as my next project in May. I will be mostly bashing but would like to get on the track at NorCal for practice time and to race around with friends. Seems that the Axail Exo is quite beautiful looking but I have read quite a lot of durability complaints. The Losi Ten SCTE seems to be a very solid, durable truck and quite competitive out of the box with the right electronics. I am leaning heavily towards this TEN SCTE roller.

I figured I would post here becuase you guys know your SCTEs and could give me solid advice. Do you guys have any opinions or suggestions for my decision?
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:07 AM
  #44639  
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
You went to all the trouble of switching the bearings but you should have replaced them..
Those bearings are subjected to both spin and side loads and they do wear out.
The bigger issue is having them grenade and spread bits of metal all thru the diff case and start chewing up gears and such.
But a bearing set from Boca or Acer or Losi you WILL need to replace a lot of bearings over the long haul.
I am looking to get a set of green seal bearings from bocabearings but i want to make SURE its not my ring and pinion thats causing this sound/maybe a mesh or wore out teeth. Im almost at 100 packs through my truck
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:35 AM
  #44640  
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Originally Posted by reckboy View Post
I have been reading thru this HUGE thread and really appreciate all the expertise offered. I was planning on ordering either the TEN SCTE roller or an Axial Exo Terra Buggy kit as my next project in May. I will be mostly bashing but would like to get on the track at NorCal for practice time and to race around with friends. Seems that the Axail Exo is quite beautiful looking but I have read quite a lot of durability complaints. The Losi Ten SCTE seems to be a very solid, durable truck and quite competitive out of the box with the right electronics. I am leaning heavily towards this TEN SCTE roller.

I figured I would post here becuase you guys know your SCTEs and could give me solid advice. Do you guys have any opinions or suggestions for my decision?
Seems like the Exo terra buggy was a phase. Everyone that I know that bought one has gotten rid of it. Scte is an awesome truck I'm sure you will be happy with it.
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