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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 04-10-2013, 02:32 AM
  #44521  
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Hi guys. I'm a newbie to all things R/C and have been running this truck for a month or two now. I bought the RTR version with the Losi badged Mamba Max Pro and motor.

I love the truck, but I'm running 6000 LiPO's (35c and 100+c) and I'm only getting about 10 minutes bashing time and 15-20 minutes track time before the ESC cuts out. I bought the castle link USB connector and tried tuning it to minimize engine strain/heat and battery voltage drops but its still happening. I switch to a NimH cell and it runs fine again until the battery runs out, so my guess is its the LiPO cutoff.

Is there anything else I should try to maximise run times? Gear it down perhaps? If so, could anyone recommend/link to a pinion and/or spur gear that would be suitable?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:39 AM
  #44522  
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Originally Posted by daniel-san View Post
Hi guys. I'm a newbie to all things R/C and have been running this truck for a month or two now. I bought the RTR version with the Losi badged Mamba Max Pro and motor.

I love the truck, but I'm running 6000 LiPO's (35c and 100+c) and I'm only getting about 10 minutes bashing time and 15-20 minutes track time before the ESC cuts out. I bought the castle link USB connector and tried tuning it to minimize engine strain/heat and battery voltage drops but its still happening. I switch to a NimH cell and it runs fine again until the battery runs out, so my guess is its the LiPO cutoff.

Is there anything else I should try to maximise run times? Gear it down perhaps? If so, could anyone recommend/link to a pinion and/or spur gear that would be suitable?

Thanks in advance.
I don't think you'll get much more runtime than that on 2S without going up to the 8000mAH batteries. You could try turning down the current on the MMP.

If you are only bashing, then go to 3S. My friend's RTR on 3S 5000MaH lasts 30 minutes bashing on 14T pinion.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:23 AM
  #44523  
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Hello, New scte 1.0 owner here, just started this RC thing in January liked it so much got another for my 6yr old daughter! Anyways I was checking it over after the weekend of use, and noticed that a front axle on one side will stop spinning during a hard full lock of the steering in one direction with the throttle on. Its on a car stand with no wheels so i was able to see where it was getting stuck at. Seems to be by the drive-shaft close to the wheel, where the cone shaped axle goes into the hub. It doesn't seem to be binding or getting caught when there is no throttle, no noises from the servo. Only when i apply throttle and make a hard right will the axle stop turning, the other side will spin fine. I turn the other way and both front axles spin freely. I've centered the servo and took off the servo horn just to check if the steering was getting caught elsewhere. My specs are listed below. Any insight would be appreciated!

TLR chassis
Radiopost Green Servo
Castle MMP
Tenshock 411 (sensored mode)
Futaba 4PL
Stock wheels/tires
rest of the truck is mostly stock parts
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:41 AM
  #44524  
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APE Battery Trays are back in stock.

Hi Guys,

I just dropped a batch of battery trays off at the anodizing shop and added them to the web store. All orders placed today or tomorrow will be shipped first thing Friday morning.

Thanks,


Chris
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:51 AM
  #44525  
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Hi all. What is necessary mod's to scte? Now I ordered HD diffs, what else?
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:53 AM
  #44526  
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Originally Posted by kidk707 View Post
Hello, New scte 1.0 owner here, just started this RC thing in January liked it so much got another for my 6yr old daughter! Anyways I was checking it over after the weekend of use, and noticed that a front axle on one side will stop spinning during a hard full lock of the steering in one direction with the throttle on. Its on a car stand with no wheels so i was able to see where it was getting stuck at. Seems to be by the drive-shaft close to the wheel, where the cone shaped axle goes into the hub. It doesn't seem to be binding or getting caught when there is no throttle, no noises from the servo. Only when i apply throttle and make a hard right will the axle stop turning, the other side will spin fine. I turn the other way and both front axles spin freely. I've centered the servo and took off the servo horn just to check if the steering was getting caught elsewhere. My specs are listed below. Any insight would be appreciated!

TLR chassis
Radiopost Green Servo
Castle MMP
Tenshock 411 (sensored mode)
Futaba 4PL
Stock wheels/tires
rest of the truck is mostly stock parts
I had this happen to mine right out of the box. What it ended up being was part of the driveshaft/dogbone was missing. Take both sides appart and see if there is a differance. The barrel was missing on mine that the small pin slides thru. Part # is B3564 that was missing.

Last edited by Offroadracer3; 04-10-2013 at 09:57 AM. Reason: added part #
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:09 PM
  #44527  
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If it is stock I would get
HA ball ends
After market chassis (many good ones out there)
Outer drives
Shock caps
Diff oils
Chassi brace
U said u got hd diffs so that would be all I would change until u get more competitive in sc oh and tires lol most inportant IMO right tire make every thing else work
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:41 PM
  #44528  
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If any of you are looking for a super great deal on the TLR Chassis take a look at www.hopmeup.com ! Its about $47.00.

I got the chassis in the mail on Monday and the Shock Bleeder caps the TLR ones also for $12.00 !
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:19 AM
  #44529  
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Ape battery tray is good upgrade or is not necessary?
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:22 AM
  #44530  
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Anyone having any issue with body mounts not lining up with body after rebuilding front diff. There seems to be like a 1/8 space that is between the gearbox ears on top and the front tower? Is there suppose to be a spacer here that im missing? I since made my own spacer to fix it but i want to know if there is a piece im missing?
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:24 AM
  #44531  
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Team Losi Racing Tuning Kit saves more weight than chassis and adds tuning
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:29 AM
  #44532  
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Default body mount alignment off center

Anyone having any issue with body mounts not lining up with body after rebuilding front diff. There seems to be like a 1/8 space that is between the gearbox ears on top and the front tower?
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:55 AM
  #44533  
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Offroadracer3

Thanks for the suggestion. I took the axle apart to see if I was missing any parts but they all seem to be there. When it was out of the truck I did notice that it does not rotate freely. I would hold the axle level and spin it. It will come to a point where the cone stops/binds then rotate it a little further it will come around. (not sure if this is making any sense). I checked the parts took it apart and dont see why it would be doing that. Theres 4 holes for the pin, are they all the same? maybe I put it in the wrong ones? Thanks again!
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:02 AM
  #44534  
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Originally Posted by losi007 View Post
Anyone having any issue with body mounts not lining up with body after rebuilding front diff. There seems to be like a 1/8 space that is between the gearbox ears on top and the front tower?
my Body mounts no longer perfectly line up with the holes in the body. im not sure why as i am using CF towers, a new flex tuned chassis, and the body mounts themselves have been replaced.

It causes some terrible flex in the body itself.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:07 AM
  #44535  
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Originally Posted by Ruger357 View Post
my Body mounts no longer perfectly line up with the holes in the body. im not sure why as i am using CF towers, a new flex tuned chassis, and the body mounts themselves have been replaced.

It causes some terrible flex in the body itself.


Same here i have the cf towers and flex chassis do you have the angle on the screw that goes into the top of the gearbox? I made a spacer in there to make it straight and now my post line up but i need to know whats the space for or am i missing a spacer
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