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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-13-2013, 11:46 AM
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I added up everything I would need on Horizon and it's only $185. Don't really need the new shock towers. Don't really need the new center diff top plate either but it's only $4. About the same as MIP kit. I know you get alot more in the MIP kit but I don't really like the white chassis. I have seen alot of them with paint or whatever is on it flaking off.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by huzzler View Post
I added up everything I would need on Horizon and it's only $185. Don't really need the new shock towers. Don't really need the new center diff top plate either but it's only $4. About the same as MIP kit. I know you get alot more in the MIP kit but I don't really like the white chassis. I have seen alot of them with paint or whatever is on it flaking off.
The towers with new camber link locations is a big deal. would think about getting the new towers as we are using new holes front and rear with our current setup. The rear ones made a huge change to rear stability on power.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:20 PM
  #44298  
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Originally Posted by huzzler View Post
I added up everything I would need on Horizon and it's only $185. Don't really need the new shock towers. Don't really need the new center diff top plate either but it's only $4. About the same as MIP kit. I know you get alot more in the MIP kit but I don't really like the white chassis. I have seen alot of them with paint or whatever is on it flaking off.
For sure man, its just another option for those guys that want it. And yes you do get all machined aluminum chassis braces, battery mounts, servo mounts, 3 pairs of front springs (all stiffer than Purple TLR fronts, more overall stability), bypass pistons to control compression or rebound, dubro/lunsord set to tighten up steering and take off overall weight. But its all how you look at it.

And we were able to adjust the way the chassis were being powdercoated so for the last 7 months all the chassis have not had any flaking issues.
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:34 PM
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Wow. Good to know thanks Casper and Matt.
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT View Post
For sure man, its just another option for those guys that want it. And yes you do get all machined aluminum chassis braces, battery mounts, servo mounts, 3 pairs of front springs (all stiffer than Purple TLR fronts, more overall stability), bypass pistons to control compression or rebound, dubro/lunsord set to tighten up steering and take off overall weight. But its all how you look at it.

And we were able to adjust the way the chassis were being powdercoated so for the last 7 months all the chassis have not had any flaking issues.
Hey Matt would you happen to have the part # for the Dubro ends you use in your kit was thinking about trying them but not sure which ones to order I have lunsford ti turnbuckles allready. Thanks
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Throwindirt View Post
Hey Matt would you happen to have the part # for the Dubro ends you use in your kit was thinking about trying them but not sure which ones to order I have lunsford ti turnbuckles allready. Thanks
You'll need the following to make it work:

1 x http://miponline.com/store/mip99053.html
1 x http://miponline.com/store/mip99049.html
1 x http://miponline.com/store/mip99050.html

If you don't have 4-40 hardware you'll nee the following as well:

1 x http://miponline.com/store/mip99042.html
1 x http://miponline.com/store/mip99046.html
2 x Normal 4-40 lock nuts (don't have a part # for those)

Look at the instructions here to get a good idea of what you have to do. http://www.miponline.com/store/media...inst-12200.pdf

Also if you have the large Lunsford turnbuckles those arn't the correct ones. You'll need 1 x http://miponline.com/store/mip99054.html of normal style turn buckles

Hope this helps man
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT View Post
You would definitely have to drill and countersink the 4th one. It's been a while since I've seen a 1.0 servo mount so my only concern is the existing three holes and if they line up. You could stick a couple wrenches through the bottom of the chassis and see if your servo will fit in line with the wrenches to simulate the position that the servo mounts would take.
Since the third hole in the stock chassis is way to the side to support the rx tray, there's no way to use the MIP servo mounts without drilling at least 2 holes in my KingHeadz chassis I think...

So does anybody know of a servo mount upgrade that does work for the 1.0 / KH chassis ?
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:05 PM
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Rant: I've broken 2 Servo/radio boxes in 2 weeks.(where the servo bolts down to, near the steering post) I'm running the stock Front Chassis brace, I think its time to upgrade. Anyone else had this happen?
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:08 PM
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Maybe because you have that servo saver locked down

Na i never broke one of them . Only cracked the front bumper mount and the upper piece that goes on top of the steering posts somehow.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
Rant: I've broken 2 Servo/radio boxes in 2 weeks.(where the servo bolts down to, near the steering post) I'm running the stock Front Chassis brace, I think its time to upgrade. Anyone else had this happen?
Slow down !

You can try some solid servo mounts if you want to do a little modification to the chassis. Drilling/Countersinking is required lol.

http://miponline.com/store/mip12208.html
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
Rant: I've broken 2 Servo/radio boxes in 2 weeks.(where the servo bolts down to, near the steering post) I'm running the stock Front Chassis brace, I think its time to upgrade. Anyone else had this happen?
Uh,no. Sounds like you are either crashing too much, have the servo locked down too tight or all of the above.
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
Welll what do u WANT to do, we cant know what it needs. spares, nuts, bolts?

Do u want to covert it to 2.0.
do you want to prep it for race season?
do you want to lighten it?
I want to prep it for race season
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Old 03-14-2013, 05:35 AM
  #44308  
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
Rant: I've broken 2 Servo/radio boxes in 2 weeks.(where the servo bolts down to, near the steering post) I'm running the stock Front Chassis brace, I think its time to upgrade. Anyone else had this happen?
Yeah, I have and one other at the track. I had a broken upper servo saver part that I think did some damage. I ran the screw through the servo arm with the nut on the downside and this caused the servo pushing on itself in the extreme position. In many pictures drivers have the nut down, which when running the TLR-arm inside hole is going to push on the servo.

I have shoo-gooed the spacer plastic on the servo holder to strenghten the point that brakes. It is just about 1mm wide. If you do that then check that there is enough clearance to the steering rack and no glue on the edges towards the steering posts.

Last edited by nanoverse; 03-14-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
Is the difference between the M12 and the M11X worth $160?Is going to Airtronics from the Spektrum worth $30 or $190?
If there's another option let me know.
Probably not the forum to answer this in, but your profile is not accepting PMs, Have you had a look at the Airtronics MT-4? Their forum is here.

I am not a hardcore racer and probably can't comment on whether one can feel the differences in ms response times etc, but can point you in one direction you haven't mentioned.

Do a quick search in that forum for the other model numbers and most of the replies are comparisons. Some people in that forum have stepped "down" from the M11x to the MT-4 due to the lighter weight. The main features people miss are support for a drop-down steering wheel, and the lack of backlight.

Hope this helps, and if you want to continue the conversation, rather than crowd the SCTE thread perhaps we can continue in the MT-4 thread or PM.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:19 AM
  #44310  
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I am running a mip chassis and the tlr shock towers. Currently have the shocks to the middle on the tower and outside on the a arm. At a good speed on cornering, my opposite tire is lifting off the ground and causing a flip. Do I need to drop my shock fluid down in the rear 30.5 wt is what it is at.

Also in the front I took of the sway bar as I am running a tight indoor track clay.

Thanks for any adivse.
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