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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-02-2013, 12:00 AM
  #44131  
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Hi, I'm sure this has been covered in this thread before, but i've just been installing a new FTL Chassis (TLR4000) and notice where the droop set screws in the a-arm's touch the chassis, there's now four screw holes does anyone know what kind of screw's i'm to use?? do i use a button head screw, flat-head counter sunk screw, size and pitch
Or just to make it ezy a part number would be great
Thanks everyone
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:30 AM
  #44132  
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Originally Posted by mrk80
Hi, I'm sure this has been covered in this thread before, but i've just been installing a new FTL Chassis (TLR4000) and notice where the droop set screws in the a-arm's touch the chassis, there's now four screw holes does anyone know what kind of screw's i'm to use?? do i use a button head screw, flat-head counter sunk screw, size and pitch
Or just to make it ezy a part number would be great
Thanks everyone
The screw holes in the chassis are there so the droop screws don't gouge the chassis like the original chassis.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:24 AM
  #44133  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
You wouldn't be the first person to say that.
I have some Mugen washers and Orings on the bench with some red mobil syn grease for the next rebuild..so I should be good to go soon.Me and my shrink will work thru this 2-getha....
Those Mugen o-rings did not work for me. Saw a reference to them here a while back.

I have rebuilt many diffs (not as many as you), and had them to a point where they would not leak. Then I tried the Mugen o-rings. Built the diffs with my proven method Put 4 full days through them. They leaked almost as bad as the unglued diffs. Rebuilt them with stock o-rings, and many packs later they are still dry.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:40 AM
  #44134  
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Originally Posted by gangstafish
The screw holes in the chassis are there so the droop screws don't gouge the chassis like the original chassis.
Thanks for that, but that doesn't sound right the holes wouldn't have a thread unless something was to screw in there.. I'm sure your to put something in there to give the chassis added protection from the droop screws!
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:46 AM
  #44135  
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Originally Posted by mrk80
Thanks for that, but that doesn't sound right the holes wouldn't have a thread unless something was to screw in there.. I'm sure your to put something in there to give the chassis added protection from the droop screws!
They're probably losa6212

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA6212
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:57 AM
  #44136  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I may/ maybe be getting the Jammin SCTE chassis now i know its much lighter than the stock chassis but how does it handle with it compared to the stock ?

And i was looking at the King headz motor mount/ Dual bearing mount now what does the motor mount have that the stock one doesnt other than the dual bearing mount ? I heard you need to use certain pinions with it for that motor mount ?
I have both king headz on my scte. It seemed to be quieter on my first run and there was less movement in the diff. The only thing is there is less room around the pinion and I had to grind down some the set screw on the pinion. This allowed for it to set properly. It seemed to be more smooth than the stock, but I need a couple more runs to really assess it.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:34 AM
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My version of the new 2.0 it handles really good and I already had the truck and didn't want to drop a lot more money. I reversed the stock battery tray and the front and back drive shafts and relocated the center diff. Huge difference.



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Old 03-02-2013, 10:42 AM
  #44138  
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Originally Posted by mxgregg
My version of the new 2.0 it handles really good and I already had the truck and didn't want to drop a lot more money. I reversed the stock battery tray and the front and back drive shafts and relocated the center diff. Huge difference.






Nice ! How did you exactly do that ?
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:44 AM
  #44139  
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Originally Posted by diseasehunter
I have both king headz on my scte. It seemed to be quieter on my first run and there was less movement in the diff. The only thing is there is less room around the pinion and I had to grind down some the set screw on the pinion. This allowed for it to set properly. It seemed to be more smooth than the stock, but I need a couple more runs to really assess it.


Is that with the motor mount/dual bearing mount combo or just the Dual bearing mount i might just go with the Dual bearing mount .

Looks like not many people run the Jammin chassis ?
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:08 PM
  #44140  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
Champion, that's what i was after
Thanks for that mate
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Nice ! How did you exactly do that ?
Alot of drilling! i did it to my stock chassis as well and it looks like swiss cheese, but i am about 3 tenth quicker with it setup like the 2.0
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:40 PM
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I only had to drill 4 holes. 3 for the diff mount and 1more for the battery. I used existing holes for the rest.
Originally Posted by maddog9
Alot of drilling! i did it to my stock chassis as well and it looks like swiss cheese, but i am about 3 tenth quicker with it setup like the 2.0
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:02 PM
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This might sound like a stupid question but is there suppose to be spacers on the bottom of the front center diff mount and on the motor mount so that there is space between the spur gear and the stock chasse? reason i am asking i picked up a used scte and for some reason the center diff was mounted backwords so i turned it back to the way it suppose to be and now the spur gear hits the chasse and the spur gear is not over the cut out in the chasse the manual says nothing about any spacers between the two mounts
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:15 PM
  #44144  
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So you guys are remounting the center diff? Does anyone have some measurements or is this a guessing game? Can the mip chassis be used as a guide?
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:45 AM
  #44145  
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I have one question. Pro4 4600kV is 550 or 540 size motor?
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