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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 02-17-2013, 02:06 PM
  #43921  
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Originally Posted by mcgrath280 View Post
Before i ask i did a search. Best answer i saw was using mugen muge0206 washers for the diff. Im buying the new update diff housing with integrated insert. Are the washers fine in that kit? Is the mugen washers still the best option?

I bought the tlr kit. Im looking for the plastic inserts the hinge pins sit in. I clipped a wall and destroyed the insert. Does anyone know of a p/n for these inserts?
The washers in the updated diff housings are NOT used behind the spider gears
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:15 PM
  #43922  
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I have been using the new diff case a couple of months. No leaks, no wobble and I feel sure the washers behind the sun gears will last longer. The housing seems to offer more support for the washer as the insert is flush. I have 3 SCTE trucks and this was a weak spot on all of them.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:47 PM
  #43923  
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Originally Posted by mcgrath280 View Post
Before i ask i did a search. Best answer i saw was using mugen muge0206 washers for the diff. Im buying the new update diff housing with integrated insert. Are the washers fine in that kit? Is the mugen washers still the best option?

I bought the tlr kit. Im looking for the plastic inserts the hinge pins sit in. I clipped a wall and destroyed the insert. Does anyone know of a p/n for these inserts?
LOSB4114 is the part number for the "ten" inserts on their own. Fyi the TLR tuning kit came with a pile of extra inserts that you probably have left over 8)
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ussprinceton View Post
I was looking into the Castle MMP SCT 2400kv combo, as well as the Tenshock SC411 Hobbywing SCT Pro 120A combo.....Which of these two motor & esc combos should I get. If the Tenshock SC411 is better , then whick kv rating should I get for the Tenshock SC411? It comes in the 3500kv, 4000kv, 4600kv, and the 5200kv...

I was also looking to be running 3S LiPo, but, would 4S be better, or is 4S too much?
I have personally used the Castle 2400kv on 2S, the Tenshock SC411 4000kv on 2S, the Hobbywing 3656SD 4000kv on 2S, and the Castle 2800 (which comes with the RTR) on 3S. I have also used the MMP and the SCT Pro ESCs along the way.

If you are thinking 2S, then my strong preference is the Hobbywing 4000 over the Tenshock. It lasts longer and is a lot cooler, and probably a bit lighter too.

If you stick with 3S, then the Castle motors are a lot of fun, but lack of sensored does make it a little bit rougher - nothing to worry about though.

I also really like the tuneability of the MMP, but the internal BEC is weak so if you start combining it with power hungry servos and power sensitive receivers then you need to get an external BEC. With the SCT Pro, no such problems, but there are fewer tuning options. Having had both I would stick with the SCT Pro though.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:03 PM
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Just when I thought I was going to mothball my 1.0 and wait for the 2.0 - I brought it out and let the big dog eat. Love 4wd SC. TQ and win. Can't wait for the 2.0.

Also drove a buddy's Teckno truck today - the truck is legit. There's definately some real competition now in 4wd SC.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:26 PM
  #43926  
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
I have been using the new diff case a couple of months. No leaks, no wobble and I feel sure the washers behind the sun gears will last longer. The housing seems to offer more support for the washer as the insert is flush. I have 3 SCTE trucks and this was a weak spot on all of them.


Yea i bought two of the HD cups and the big washer that goes behind the sun gear looks the same as old. But with the insert ingrated into the diff cup i dont think it will wear nearly as bad.

Grandturk: Oh heck man its all driver and setup not truck or buggy Im keeping my 1.0 SCTE also and just upgradeing little by little from stock.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post

Grandturk: Oh heck man its all driver and setup not truck or buggy
that's outrageous! New parts and bling make you go faster!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:44 PM
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I've heard there's another 4x4SC competitor coming out this year, That being the Mugen 4x4 SCT. Should give the 2.0 SCTE and Tekno a nice run. I'm just glad to see more and more Four by SC's on the market that are quality.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
I've heard there's another 4x4SC competitor coming out this year, That being the Mugen 4x4 SCT. Should give the 2.0 SCTE and Tekno a nice run. I'm just glad to see more and more Four by SC's on the market that are quality.
You know I am surprised that Hpi never hit the shelf with a 4x4 SCT .They put out that 1/8 Apache thing and a 1/12 scale 4x4 and I dunno they like building trucks for a non existent market.Ever see the Cup Racer?Most over engineered r/c ever for a non existent market, again LOL.
Just hope that all the new trucks bring in more talent to the class, Jus Sayin.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:08 AM
  #43930  
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Long or short rear brace on a technical, tight smooth track?

Myself aren't sure, have to test more. Have the AE long brace which i had to mod a little. The hole didn't line up correctly, and now the rear maybe flexes too much up/down?
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:21 AM
  #43931  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
Long or short rear brace on a technical, tight smooth track?

Myself aren't sure, have to test more. Have the AE long brace which i had to mod a little. The hole didn't line up correctly, and now the rear maybe flexes too much up/down?
What's the tracks traction like? I would guess that on a high bite track I would use the longer brace that allows less flex and on a lower bite track to use the shorter brace allowing both side to side and front to back chassis twist creating more traction.

Does that make sense?
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:00 AM
  #43932  
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Can you actually feel the difference between running the long or short brace ? I'm just wondering 'cause there's so much going on when the car is speeding along the track I figure I'd never be able to tell.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
Can you actually feel the difference between running the long or short brace ? I'm just wondering 'cause there's so much going on when the car is speeding along the track I figure I'd never be able to tell.
True, perception is sometimes skewed when having a preconception off how something should work.

That said I feel that I have more rotation with the longer brace on med-high bite.

All of the Team Losi setups are with torque rod installed and that made me curious.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
Can you actually feel the difference between running the long or short brace ? I'm just wondering 'cause there's so much going on when the car is speeding along the track I figure I'd never be able to tell.
Absolutely. I've run stock brace, long brace and torque rod on my truck and they all have a specific performance advantages. High bite tracks will demand the long brace - this will help in rotating around corners quickly. The torque rod seems to be very consistent and predictable middle ground between the short and long braces.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Wllmplaysdrms View Post
Hello all,
I am new to the sc world and its my first time using a Novak system (ballistic 6.5t and havoc pro esc) as it had come with my truck used. When I first received it I had absolutely in problems for days. Then I drop it on the track at an out of town race and it drives ten feet then motor shuts off. I still get steering but no drive. Unplug battery and started it back up. If I drive slow I get a little bit if stutter or jitter in the throttle but if I try to. Go down the straight , the motor wi ll shut off. Unfortunately I'm not getting consistent error codes either. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Will
It sounds like a Sensor wire issue. Do you have the Sensor wire plugged in right??? there's a chance you might need a new wire, they are only $5-$10 for new one, I would try that first. If the new Sensor wire still acts up, then it's probably the sensor board in either the Motor Cap or ESC.

Also is the 6.5 motor... is it a longer can motor (550 motor) like this....
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tor-65T-3400Kv
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