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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 02-04-2013, 08:39 AM
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Default Steering rack advise

Is the steering rack a place to upgrade to aluminum or stay with the stock plastic? I need to replace a couple of parts and was thinking of changing to the aluminum.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:49 AM
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I don't think you gain anything by it and I have never broken those parts in 2+ years of hard running .....If its all still stock then get some bearings for it and maybe do the hard anno hollowball set ....
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tajar66 View Post
Is the steering rack a place to upgrade to aluminum or stay with the stock plastic? I need to replace a couple of parts and was thinking of changing to the aluminum.
Are you talking about the servo saver part of the bellcrank. The 22 has a rack the SCTE has a bell crank. I know I am being a little picky here but trying to figure out what part(s) you are talking about here. The only part I upgrade on my SCTE is to use the HA tube as it has a little better tolerance on it for better fitting bearings to take a slight bit of slop out.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by weavty1 View Post
I posted this on the new 2.0 thread, as well... but FYI gents;

You know, I was building up new TLR option shocks this weekend for my SCTE (which are the exact same as what come with the 2.0 kit) and I was sorely disappointed at the quality of the pistons, o-rings, and shock bottoms... After three go-arounds with just one shock and constant leaking from the bottom, I gave up.

Now I've built and rebuilt probably hundreds of shocks over the years.. This was the worst experience I ever had.

Upon closer inspection, the pistons I wanted to use (#3 and #4's) were all warped which caused the piston to hang in some spots travelling up and down inside the shock body. But what caused the leaking was that the o-rings that come with the rebuild kits, are about 0.5mm larger in ID than the shock shaft-itself (Shock shaft outside diameter is approximately 3.5mm and o-ring inside diameter is 4.0mm).

I ended up going with TLR22 #54 pistons and TLR22 low-friction shock o-rings, instead. Problem solved.... until I realized that one of the four shock bottoms, had a larger hole with an inside diameter of nearly 5.0mm, which was more than 0.5mm larger than the other shock bottoms. That one shock almost drained completely of oil after a little over 2 hours of sitting in my shock stand. Now I've got to order a complete extra Shock Plastics set, just for one that was manufactured properly.....

It's not that difficult, guys.. But what a disappointing weekend I had, with that problem. Ridiculous.


Just a little heads-up for everyone.
Weavty1, sorry you had a bad experience and thankfully the scte shocks ard normally pretty cool and troublefree. Sounds like you got some mispackaged orings and a molding fault. Give horizon or tlr a call and explain your problems, they will make it right!
The tlr pistons you installed are the current preferred setup anyways and i have heard of quite a few folks that really like the 22 orings in the scte shocks so at least you can go and enjoy your truck!
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:22 PM
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Casper. does any body make a front and back bead locking rim for the scte so you dont have to use tire glue. ???? thanks in advance
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko View Post
Casper. does any body make a front and back bead locking rim for the scte so you dont have to use tire glue. ???? thanks in advance
Pro-line Protrac bead locks should be the right off set and the only bead lock wheels I am aware of.

http://prolineracing.com/short-cours...t-truck-wheels
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Pro-line Protrac bead locks should be the right off set and the only bead lock wheels I am aware of.

http://prolineracing.com/short-cours...t-truck-wheels
I am not certain that Proline redid the molds on all their wheels to clear the SCTE fronts. If you use the ProTrack bead locks - you may need to dremel some of the ribbing inside the rims.
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Pro-line Protrac bead locks should be the right off set and the only bead lock wheels I am aware of.

http://prolineracing.com/short-cours...t-truck-wheels
Thanks for your help. and link..

I called and asked about this rim and it needs glue and trimming to work on the scte.. also ... they said they are working on a front and rear total locking rim assembly that needs no glue. should have it out the later part of April or May if any ones interested in making them manufacturer it faster... call em and tell them to hurry it up LOL
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:48 PM
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Default About to try out emulsion

I have been reading about emulsion style shocks on this thread for a while, and am about to try it out. I am running the stock (ARR) pistons on the stock weight at the moment (27.5).

1) Please could you confirm that the general wisdom is to go up 5wt (ie for me to 32.5wt)?
2) I have read that the TLR team are now using 2 hole pistons - can I just keep the standard 4 hole stock pistons and still get some level of benefit?

I know my mileage may vary, and there are a lot of variables at play, but just wanting to try out one thing at a time (unless it really needs to be done in conjunction with other changes).

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:50 PM
  #43645  
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Heres a nice little tool kit for working on your 1.0 or help build your 2.0...

Arrowmax Honeycomb Tools
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
).

1) Please could you confirm that the general wisdom is to go up 5wt (ie for me to 32.5wt)?
2) I have read that the TLR team are now using 2 hole pistons - can I just keep the standard 4 hole stock pistons and still get some level of benefit?

Thanks!
You may end up with a heavier oil, but would start with the same oil and tune from their. I actually ended up quite a but lighter after working with my shocks in emulsion style. I think I went from 35 f/r and kept dropping and am at 27.5 now (but its colder now, too).

I also used the stock #3 pistons with the emulsion setup. You will be fine. Try it and tune from there.

I just installed the 2 hole modded 22 pistons. Hopefully will be able to run them this weekend.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:29 PM
  #43647  
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Originally Posted by drepus View Post
With 5 or 7 in the center diff i was getting quite a bit of front wheelspin when accelerating out of corners on carpet. With the heavier center fluid i get much more drive out of the corners and more even tire wear. I have tried as heavy as 30 in the center and found that anything above 10-15k seems to do the trick for me. On dirt i almost always run 5/5/3.
Trying one thing at a time is always a good plan because what works at the smaller carpet track may not work for you.
I wouldn't worry too much about the droop screws marking the chassis. Mine shows only minor marks after a winter and a half indoors.


Well i have 10k i could use for the center diff but i might just stick with 7k. With the 5k in the center i do think its to light on carpet .

You are right i did notice increased tire ware on the front tires and wheelspin if i got on the throttle a little bit into the middle of the turns. My track is small and tight but enough room.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Well i have 10k i could use for the center diff but i might just stick with 7k. With the 5k in the center i do think its to light on carpet .

You are right i did notice increased tire ware on the front tires and wheelspin if i got on the throttle a little bit into the middle of the turns. My track is small and tight but enough room.
I kept thickening the center diff and figured i would stop when the back started stepping out too much. It never did even with 30k. The thicker fluid definately increased drive coming out of the corners and even helped by giving the chassis less of a front wheel drive push when the fluid was thinner.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by drepus View Post
and figured i would stop when the back started stepping out too much. It never did even with 30k.
When you say stepping out...do you mean like drifting to where the rear end is spinning and sliding out on you?
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms View Post
When you say stepping out...do you mean like drifting to where the rear end is spinning and sliding out on you?
Yes. I was trying to say something like "stepping out on power". The back feels so planted on carpet that i only run 2.5 rear toe in. It will only step out of line when i want it to with a little persuasion.
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