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Old 01-25-2013, 03:01 PM
  #43366  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Some food for thought...some people just like upgrades. They like to work on their truck and personalize it and add stuff and change stuff. Not always because it needs it, but just because. Just a thought though.
I've spent allot of money on upgrades,not because I thought it was going to make be a better racer or even make my truck faster I just enjoy tinkering with my truck
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:04 PM
  #43367  
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I don't know. I upgraded every piece after it failed or if I thought it would help performance. And it did get better or more durable with almost every upgrade. Over time it had more aftermarket parts than stock parts.

Then it got really old hunting down aftermarket parts when they wore out or broke, so now I'm running a different truck bone-stock and I'm going to keep it like that as much as possible.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:23 PM
  #43368  
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at this point I think the only upgrades that will help me are better throttle control,picking the right tire for the track,and getting more track time which I don't think will be any time soon since I just moved from Florida to NY so keep the upgrades coming so at least if I can't race it I can work on it
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:41 PM
  #43369  
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
... I would like to get some female opinions as to notching nuts...
Hahahaha!!!
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:58 PM
  #43370  
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Has anyone heard of KK Pit? Any thoughts or comments from people who have used their parts?

Here's one part they make. Talk about bling...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KKPIT-LOSI-S...adio_Control_T
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:01 PM
  #43371  
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I am planning to get the new diff cases. Can I use the old internal gears (sans the 4 tiny shims)? I read some posts about new gears so wanted to confirm first. Thanks!
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:01 PM
  #43372  
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Hi guys. I am newbie in SCTE. Can i use tekin pro4 4600kv with 3s Lipo?
any suggestion ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:11 PM
  #43373  
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not suggested
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:20 PM
  #43374  
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Originally Posted by Casper
http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/..._Rule_Book.pdf

Start at page 70.

There is a minimum overall hieight as well as some rules on the size of some key body dimensions.

There is the issue that the wheel wells need to cover the wheels so so you need clareance for the wheel travel. It is kind of one of those things that it is what it is. If you like lower body cars there are buggies and ST trucks.
Originally Posted by hacker07
Yes, they have to be that tall according to ROAR. The reality is that according to ROAR, they are too low already, lol, which is lame. I run mine low enough to have the tires barely rub the body so I can get any lower either way.
Oh I see, is 5.5 inches tall required on diagram 2. I just measured a tundra body and its 5.75 ....so its a no go!
Also read about wing and reminded me a few dingos using them.
Anyways, on parts update: just got in the mail the new diff and intalled one already...now thats what a diff is supposed to feel ! Thanks Ryan
I realized that my truck most have almost all the goodies and the battery tray was shipped today from chris (a.p.e) but what I'm really surprised is that I still have a spare set of a arms on the bag and the stock ones still looks strong (mugen sucks on that department) and also I'm still using the stock bumpers and I have crashed and hit a lot of things like truggies in more than a year racing.
Really want a few teknos on my track and kick their...!
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:29 PM
  #43375  
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No, the 4600 is not meant for 3s. The 3300 is.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:37 PM
  #43376  
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Originally Posted by rallyredevo
I don't know. I upgraded every piece after it failed or if I thought it would help performance. And it did get better or more durable with almost every upgrade. Over time it had more aftermarket parts than stock parts.

Then it got really old hunting down aftermarket parts when they wore out or broke, so now I'm running a different truck bone-stock and I'm going to keep it like that as much as possible.
+1 every upgrade i did to mine was a necessity.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:43 PM
  #43377  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Some food for thought...some people just like upgrades. They like to work on their truck and personalize it and add stuff and change stuff. Not always because it needs it, but just because. Just a thought though.
Originally Posted by BmainStar
Tinker- ing is just a huge part of it to most of us Pseudo Geeks. Adding upgrades is just part of it that feels like modeling to me.Thats where the urge to build Kits comes from I guess..
Originally Posted by Throwindirt
I've spent allot of money on upgrades,not because I thought it was going to make be a better racer or even make my truck faster I just enjoy tinkering with my truck
Same here, i do what i what becuz i can, not becuz im fast...i dont even really race and i would hate to admit how much money i have put into my RC's. I dont really drink(more of a social drinker), do drugs, smoke or anything else that takes up my money so RC's are the only "release" as i would call it and i love to work on things and have since a kid so this is awsome and my kinda thing...

Originally Posted by GenX69
I am planning to get the new diff cases. Can I use the old internal gears (sans the 4 tiny shims)? I read some posts about new gears so wanted to confirm first. Thanks!
Yes, all gears work but the newest gear set is the set you will most likely get if you order and yes, do not use the 4 tiny shims
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:21 PM
  #43378  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
+1 every upgrade i did to mine was a necessity.
Only must have upgrade is the rear carbon tower!!ONLY!!!
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:29 PM
  #43379  
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I am getting ready to pick up a used SCTE. I am getting a good deal on a buddies entire setup. he just had a kid and no longer has time for RC. Couple of quick questions. Is the scte sae or metric? How often do you have to service the diffs? And is it a chore to get to them? I am planning to tear down the entire truck, clean and refurb from the ground up so I start with a clean slate and go from there. I have always run ae till this. I ran a sc10 4x4 for a couple of weeks then sold it. Only been running blinky SC since. This will be my first Losi product ever. I came to the understanding in the last few weeks that brand loyalty doesnt really mean anything unless they are paying you. Checked the mailbox. Nope no check for running what i have been running. Time to make a change. I hope to learn alot in the coming months about how to setup this beast. Thanks all for all the posts I have been trying to catch up on.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:55 PM
  #43380  
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Originally Posted by Rawwolf
...Couple of quick questions. Is the scte sae or metric?
Mixed - mainly SAE
Originally Posted by Rawwolf
How often do you have to service the diffs? And is it a chore to get to them?
Your mileage may vary. Some (many?) have problems with leaking diffs and there are many methods for trying to seal them (search "seal diff RTV"). Just released has been a new TLR diff housing that does no leak. I am not experienced with many kits, but find it is quite easy to get to them. Here are a couple of links I have saved:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10810042-post34902.html

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Here are some other notes I sent to a new SCTE owner:
Preventative Maintenance
  • Blue Threadlock 4 Centre Diff Mount screws
  • Blue Threadlock Servo Saver in tightened position
  • Cut Nerf bars?
  • Trim rear bumper?
  • Engine Mount Screw - swap to cap head (or countersunk with washer)
Pre-Flight Checks
  • Wheel nuts tight
  • All screws on base plate are present & flush tight
Immediate Purchase Items
  • Serrated nylock flange nuts for wheels
  • Pinion gears
Widely used Tuning Ideas to Try
  • Ride height to 27mm/27mm
  • Diffs changed over to Diff Oil (plus sealing method), start with 5000 Front / 5000 Centre / 3000 Rear
  • Gold/Black Springs Front, Silver/Orange Springs Rear
Common Problems & Solutions
  • Centre diff Mounting Screws loosening - blue locktite
  • Diff fluid leaking - sealing metal insert
  • Centre driveshaft coupler pin (LOSB3556) wearing into plastic holder - newer part with grub screw, or aftermarket solutions
  • Motor mount button head screw stripping head or thread - cap head screw
  • Loss of "tight" steering over time - loose servo saver needs tightening + locktite
  • Wheel nuts coming loose/off and wearing wheel hex away - serrated flanged nylock wheel nuts
  • Bending shock towers (never happened to me) - carbon fibre shock towers
  • Too much slop? Design feature, or hardened steering ball ends
  • Too loud? SCTE is generally loud, but adjusting pinion gear mesh can help a little
  • Glitching? Glitch buster capacitor or external BEC. (or change ESC / Servo / receiver)
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