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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-22-2013, 05:10 PM
  #43276  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
Hey Guys,

I finished a batch of battery trays over the weekend. They are at the anodizers now and will be ready to ship on Friday. I will also have bare aluminum trays ready to ship by Friday.

Thanks for your patience,


Chris
Chris - do you have any info on what the common adjustments people make to their truck when they use your tray and flip the battery to the rear? IE: heaver oil in rear, lighter front, changes to shock mounting positions?
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:14 PM
  #43277  
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Originally Posted by MOE View Post
You need to lower your timing, default is 10.
And make sure your in smart sense mode.
Thanks, I will lower the timing since 10 is default.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:16 PM
  #43278  
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what size wrench fits the stock turnbuckles? thanks in advance.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
Heh heh, who would have guessed a quick comment about these simple parts could start 2 pages of discussion?

Personally I haven't had instances where the nut looses just enough for the pin to drop out. Usually the wheel would have fallen off before then.

Hexes - true, if you race then I believe this (or cheaper locking hexes) would be useful. But as I am not in formal racing then having cheap standard spares is good enough for me. Correct me if I'm wrong, but even in a race if your wheel has fallen off and the hex is lost then you'll DNF anyway. Thanks to those who have posted cheaper options than the Losi ones.

Serrated nuts - definitely worth it for the cheap prices, and helps not interrupt the flow no matter what driving you are doing (racing, bashing, etc).
I've never lost a pin or hex on the track, but before I had locking hexes it happened ALL the time when in the pits changing tires.

The hex was a snug fit in the wheel and it would just pull the hex off. Depending on how the axle was lined up, the pin either stayed in, or I was fishing for it on the floor.

Not a big fan of looking for things lost on the ground... easy choice for me!
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:16 PM
  #43280  
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Originally Posted by MOE View Post
Traxxas steel serrated nuts are only $3 for 8, doesn't get much cheaper than that.

+1 There good to ive been using them for a long time ! Why pay more than that for locknuts you know.

Honestly ive been using the stock Hexs i have yet to have any axle pin fall out even when takeing the wheels off.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:25 PM
  #43281  
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Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
Personally if I could only afford one of the new diff cases I would run it in the front and/or rear as they are harder to get to, and so more effort to change if you have leaks with the original diff cases.

The Hobbywing 3656SD series motors are said to run cooler than average, whereas the Tekin is said to run hotter but is said to be OK with higher temperatures. Some also might say that if your pinion is too small your temps would be higher due to over-revving.

If you are looking at making your truck lighter you can also remove plastic from your stock battery tray (drill lots of holes, etc - search this thread for "battery tray mod"), cut off the nerf (side impact) bars, trim the rear bumper.

I would also look at buying some serrated and flanged wheel nuts if you don't have them already. I hated it when the nut fell off, the wheel goes flying away, then you lose the hex and pin as well. Happened a lot until I got some of these.
Thanks for reminding me about the wheel nuts!!! I just ordered the exotek fronts and losi rears for my 22's. I have never had my wheels fly off as much as with my new Losi's. I will pick up the dingo wheel nuts from amain.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:26 PM
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Interesting discussion..... There was some talk around the local hobby shop this afternoon with a couple of folks - I didn't realize that the front end of the 22 series (don't have any of those yet...) has open spindles and seems like it would take very little to thread a drive shaft through.... interesting.... re-engineer the front to accomodate a front diff, add center and go racing????

I wonder what is going to show up at the Reedy race this week????

Fun to speculate, isn't it???
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:17 PM
  #43283  
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Hi all, great forum with plenty of good advice. I am hoping someone can help as I have not been able to find an answer on this one.

I have just installed the TLR Ti Screw Kit, most screws were swapped out without any issues. However, I cannot find a hex wrench that will fit the Ti 4-40 x 3/8 button head screws - the 1/16 spins and the 5/64 is too big. The original screws used a 1/16 hex wrench which fits fine.

Has anyone had a similar experience or know what size to use?
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:17 PM
  #43284  
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Try a good metric hex driver either 2 or 2.5 i forget which one
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:23 PM
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Does anyone know where to put the shims that come with the Rear Gear Case Metal Bearing Inserts?

One on each side of the bearing on both sides of the car or what?

Encountered some grinding from the rear gear box and think the pinion might not be meshing with the ring gear properly.

Also, 2nd question: why aren't these things included with / needed with the original plastic inserts? Seems like they only come with the metal inserts.

Thanks
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:23 AM
  #43286  
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Originally Posted by Maddog94 View Post
Does anyone know where to put the shims that come with the Rear Gear Case Metal Bearing Inserts?

One on each side of the bearing on both sides of the car or what?

Encountered some grinding from the rear gear box and think the pinion might not be meshing with the ring gear properly.

Also, 2nd question: why aren't these things included with / needed with the original plastic inserts? Seems like they only come with the metal inserts.

Thanks
I used two shims between case and pinion on left side to push gears together and one shim on the other side to remove slop. Check for binding or grinding to figure out how many you need. The shaft should spin freely of course. You can also hear when it's too close.

Was wondering the same thing that they aren't used stock.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:27 AM
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I have one on the rear outdrive passenger side of the truck. They are regular outdrive shims that i purchased from my local hobby store. The come in 0.1 and 0.2 mm. I used on 0.2 mm shim when I completly repaced my diffs and gearbox covers.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:18 AM
  #43288  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Not saying I've seen it. It's a new chassis design that looks like same material from TLR chassis, ESC swapped to top, and placing the battery tray back some. Have you noticed the Losi parts with TLR part numbers? I know I'll be picking one up to match up against my current truck.... then make one an ex.

It's "technically" a rumor till it announced... which will be soon. The joys of racing with TLR guys
The rumor a while back was the new truck was spotted in Cali at a track. That member reported that this truck was a lb lighter than the old truck.

Kuya has some knowledge of the new truck.

I am guessing it is a saddle pack type layout.
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:49 AM
  #43289  
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well it could be just a TLR kit w/ all the goodies.. it could also be 22 based; heck it could be based on a redesigned 8ight-e 3.0. I will say lots of great deals on 8ight-e 2.0's right now, snagged one yesterday for 278, also got a 8ight-t 2.0 for 325 shipped; race kits both. Heck with rebuilding this year, replace and keep a few spares Grab while there is stock left ;P Should see the 3.0's right quick
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:54 AM
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I like the idea of a 22 platform...
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