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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-15-2013, 07:46 AM
  #43096  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
Tekno makes the ball end (the side with the drive pin through it) bigger than the stock CVD's so it will not fit into the stock diff cups . You must get the Tekno diff cups to use their F/R CVD set ....
Sorry to rehash this one more time. So the "Tekno RC HD Front/Center Driveshaft" and "Tekno RC HD Rear/Center Driveshaft" will work with the "Losi Center HD Lightened Outdrive Set" in the center diff. However, the "Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft Set" will not work with the stock or TLR outdrives in the front/rear diffs? Is that correct?
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:00 AM
  #43097  
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Originally Posted by Pygmy View Post
I'm using the birdcages to directly connect the Esc to my battery, seems to work fine.

To be honest ive never had issues ethier with those bird cage connecters at all to the battery.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:08 AM
  #43098  
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Originally Posted by KoryRC View Post
Sorry to rehash this one more time. So the "Tekno RC HD Front/Center Driveshaft" and "Tekno RC HD Rear/Center Driveshaft" will work with the "Losi Center HD Lightened Outdrive Set" in the center diff. However, the "Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft Set" will not work with the stock or TLR outdrives in the front/rear diffs? Is that correct?
yes you are correct on the Tekno Rear/Center and Front/Center drive shafts working with the Stock/lightened Outdrives. This is what I have installed in my SCTE just a couple of weeks ago.

Now as far as the M6 DriveShaft Set for the drive lines front and rear(from diff to wheel axles) I don't know first hand, but that is my understanding as well. I believe you have to upgrade the diff left and right out drives(front/rear) to Tekno outdrives which have a bigger ball cup. Hopefully someone who has done this upgrade can confirm.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by KoryRC View Post
Sorry to rehash this one more time. So the "Tekno RC HD Front/Center Driveshaft" and "Tekno RC HD Rear/Center Driveshaft" will work with the "Losi Center HD Lightened Outdrive Set" in the center diff. However, the "Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft Set" will not work with the stock or TLR outdrives in the front/rear diffs? Is that correct?
YES

Originally Posted by RC_Woody View Post
yes you are correct on the Tekno Rear/Center and Front/Center drive shafts working with the Stock/lightened Outdrives. This is what I have installed in my SCTE just a couple of weeks ago.

Now as far as the M6 DriveShaft Set for the drive lines front and rear(from diff to wheel axles) I don't know first hand, but that is my understanding as well. I believe you have to upgrade the diff left and right out drives(front/rear) to Tekno outdrives which have a bigger ball cup. Hopefully someone who has done this upgrade can confirm.
YES
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:30 AM
  #43100  
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
Birdcages are for charging, after time they become a loose connector and will possibly melt you lipi by the connector,
Happened to me when starting the hobby. Will now use only solids.
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Dos Andos View Post
Hi all,
Has anybody else had issues with team Orion batteries? I have 4 carbon pro 6500mah 90c packs. 2 have minor swelling but the other 2 have split open. These packs have always been looked after, always balanced, always charged at 6.5 amps with a good quality charger, never dropped and never over discharged. I don't bash only race. So they are only ever run for 7 minutes most times.
They have between 15 to 20 cycles on them and gotta say I'm pretty disappointed...
Any ideas or comments?


Yeap... had the same issue. 1 swelled and 1 loss power (the bullet connector de-soldered) ... Try calling Horizon and get it warrantied. I did and they did on both of my packs... worth it
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:32 AM
  #43102  
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Originally Posted by Dos Andos View Post
Hi all,
Has anybody else had issues with team Orion batteries? I have 4 carbon pro 6500mah 90c packs. 2 have minor swelling but the other 2 have split open. These packs have always been looked after, always balanced, always charged at 6.5 amps with a good quality charger, never dropped and never over discharged. I don't bash only race. So they are only ever run for 7 minutes most times.
They have between 15 to 20 cycles on them and gotta say I'm pretty disappointed...
Any ideas or comments?



Local Buddy had this happen too. Something's up with these packs no doubt.

Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
To be honest ive never had issues ethier with those bird cage connecters at all to the battery.


Do you have to melt down a battery for you to believe what were saying ?
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:31 AM
  #43103  
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The same thing happened to one of my Gens Ace packs.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:43 AM
  #43104  
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Local Buddy had this happen too. Something's up with these packs no doubt.





Do you have to melt down a battery for you to believe what were saying ?
No, but looking at the rest of your post people have no problems melting down batteries whether or not they use birdcage connectors
So far, *for me*, correlation does not imply causation
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:13 AM
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Its not a good feeling when ur truck go's up in flames
And racers tend to look at you differently lol
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by KoryRC View Post
Sorry to rehash this one more time. So the "Tekno RC HD Front/Center Driveshaft" and "Tekno RC HD Rear/Center Driveshaft" will work with the "Losi Center HD Lightened Outdrive Set" in the center diff. However, the "Tekno RC M6 Driveshaft Set" will not work with the stock or TLR outdrives in the front/rear diffs? Is that correct?
Yes. Center DIFF LOSI OUTDRIVES, Front/Rear diffs TECHNO OUTDRIVES this with all tekno drive shafts.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:16 PM
  #43107  
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Originally Posted by Dos Andos View Post
Hi all,
Has anybody else had issues with team Orion batteries? I have 4 carbon pro 6500mah 90c packs. 2 have minor swelling but the other 2 have split open. These packs have always been looked after, always balanced, always charged at 6.5 amps with a good quality charger, never dropped and never over discharged. I don't bash only race. So they are only ever run for 7 minutes most times.
They have between 15 to 20 cycles on them and gotta say I'm pretty disappointed...
Any ideas or comments?
Ya Screw Orion!!Well known around here not to run those or the Reedy batts in this truck!I was in a jam for a pit light a year or so ago and didn't have time to get to the hard ware store to pick one up.I had for got mine at home, i went in to the hobby shop and the only one they had was an Orion unit!!Well it was in a n Orion box anyway$100 dollar pit lamp!!!!
I said Ok ,I will buy this Uber bitchen lamp and be set! It fell apart within 3 weeks of RacingThe plexi covers came unglued,the plastic end caps came off and the extension cord didn't even work..Bed bath and beyond has some sick Pit Lamps for 20 bucks that blow this thing away!!
(Rant Over)..Venom batteries are the Best option IMHO..Like most companies had some issues with the quality a few yrs back but now build and stand by a very good battery!Not all batteries are made in the same sweat shop using the same parts and just getting a differant package,but some ARE!!!Its just amazing to me that a Gens Ace 50 pack will push this truck just fine but some $120 packs just fail outright!!I think alot of people really kill the batts themselves,with the Venoms You can run 8- 10 mins and not hurt the batts with the Gens I run 6 minutes Tops, in practice and it never puffs or gets hot,If You always run to LVC it will hurt Your Packs in no time!!!
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:17 PM
  #43108  
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Do you have it mounted that way so that you can swap transponders? If not, seems like it'd be cheaper, lighter and cleaner to put it in the radio box.
I didn't put it in the radio box, before I had the CC BEC, etc. and there wasn't a tremendous amount of room. I debated just shortening the cable and using double sided tape to secure it like the receiver inside, but now that I already have the mount, why not use it. The thing that I also considered is that the transponder is supposed to be mounted flat and not on top of a conductive material....good luck with that, which includes the CF its on, but I guess the gap below the transponder is adequate. If you do move it, the mount is great; because it makes everything easy to get to.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by whittie View Post
I've had 2 Orions (of 2) swell to unusable levels and 1 IP (of 2) also go round.

I'm not hating here, but I've also got 14 nano-techs without 1 single issue...

I also only race and look after my packs. I hope you get good warranty service out of Orion but I'd suggest selling them on while/if you can.

On the same note - A friend had 8, yes 8, protek batteries die in about 3 months. He's now converted to turnigy and not a single issue
Could you give us a link to which nanotechs?
Cheers
Andy
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:57 PM
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LOSI RACING BLOG SPOT ON THE NEW DIFFS HYPERLINK

The existing parts in the diff rebuild kit will be updated with the new gaskets as they are replenished. So it will be a running change/update with the gaskets.

So when you buy your rebuild kit, check to make sure you have the thicker gaskets in the kit.
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